Mopar1973Man

No issues, coolant ran 195 to 197, EGTs were normal 600*F at 66 MPH at 2,000 RPM. Even engine oil temp hover at 175*F. Remember my pop pressure is higher and later injection event.

I've ran as high as 23 to 24 degrees of cruise timing at 2k RPM.

Stock... Nozzles are too small really bump up pop pressure. Nozzle atomize the fuel pretty good. The larger injectors get larger droplets so bumping up a bit gives better fine mist. Im only +10 bar over the stock 310 bar.

Also agree... I've done... Stock Injectors - Failed at 150k miles at 260 to 270 bar. (Minimum pop is 293 bar by Dodge FSM standards) RV275 Injectors (used) +50HP Vulcan Performance injectors. +75 HP DAP injectors SAC and VCO injectors. (VCO performed better than SAC) +150 HP DAP Injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar) - CURRENT So far I'm highly impressed with this set of injectors being I've upped the pop pressure, gain cleaner emissions (less smoke), good all around power and lower EGT's. Making roughly 500 HP with the Quadzilla on kill. Typically I drive with my economy tune and the Quadzilla on either 2 or 3 for level depending on what I want for the day. I cut it loose on level 7 on my Arizona trip and it towed wonderful. No EGT issues, low smoke and clears quickly. EGTs were controlled. Total GCW was 17,300 pounds. Most injectors for our trucks are wore out by 100k miles and the pop pressure is too low.

The biggest mistake is do not download with your PC. I get a ton of people asking how to transfer between the PC to the mobile device. Or downloaded on a friends mobile device... ALWAYS download using the same mobile device the iQuad app is on! At least for Android user you download the file(s) with the mobile device, fire up iQuad app, then go back to downloads and tap on the tune file, the screen will flip to iQuad now showing your new file and ask what you want to rename it too. Tune file is ready. (Samsung S10+ Android)

Yup. You phone does it all for the normal operation. You can build tunes on your phone no PC required. The only thing I would suggest is building a spreadsheet for calculating your fuel map and timing maps. I've create a simple one that allows me to play with step rates on fuel and timing and see some of the maps without a need for the Windows Excel sheet here. Since I can't use Microsoft products, I can use my basic spreadsheet in Ubuntu Linux. The only time is firmware updates. Even myself with a Ubuntu Linux PC can update the Quadzilla firmware by running virtualbox and Windows 7. Super rare, for me to fire up that bloated system. Even my PC has a-pillar gauges!!!

I would have to say there is a ABS module issue. If your just idling in 1st gear and it jumping that much there is a module issue. Module Masters in Moscow, Idaho can rebuld that ABS computer for $130 and give a 5 year warranty. They even test the unit for function. I would also look at AC noise issues from possibly the alternator if you not already. AC noise can flood the computer with evnough noise to make the speedometer move even when the vehicle isn't. Hence why the W-T ground mod is required.

Be aware even when my head gasket failed there was no combustion gases in the coolant. Only the coolant leaking out the back of the head on the passenger side. It only randomly leaked too. The day I decided to change the gaskets and do the head job I ran the truck super hard, EGT passing 1,400*F, pulling 3,000 RPM , and came back to the shop and backed in the shop and there was ZERO coolant leaking. Now the night before it leaked a hamburger bun sized puddle on the garage floor.

Lift kits and over sized wheels will cause death wobble for sure. When you get the geometry of the front axles messed up you'll create a good death wobble.

Yeah I'm sorry about the subscription thing but donations wasn't cutting it. It cost quite a bit to keep a server going with this amount of data and keeping all the software bills paid in full. There is an option for monthly at $1.99, $2.99 and $5.99...

Dang... I forgot to get photos dow at the Fire Station. I just ran 80 miles to install batteries in two fire trucks. Now I've got to gear up and head up and do a battery cable replacement on the water tender in the yard.

P0237 code... MAP sensor voltage too low. I would consider unhooking the Quadzilla XZT and the reset the codes. Then go for a test drive. If the code returns then MAP sensor or wiring is the cause. If the code does not come back the Quadzilla XZT boost fooler is burned up.

AC noise issues from the alternator. Do the... Make sure to take the alternator off and have it bench tested for excessive AC noise. Then do the...

In 415k miles I've never had a 5th gear nut issue. Stock transmission never had a issues. First Rebuild was with a upgraded main shaft and standard nut. The torque is pretty high like 550 Ft/lbs Second rebuild again upgraded shaft and 5th gear towing never bothered it. Still going... One of the big causes is the oversize tire puts a lot of stress on the 5th gear. Then the gear starts to rock on the splines. Being I've never ran oversized tires and been undersized the entire life of my truck I've never had one issue with 5th gear nut. Even with the current power level with 500 HP. Never came lose once. Still running Mobil 50 SAE Gear Lube GL-4 Synthetic no issues with the lube oil either. I've had a few batches of defective syncros but that is it.

Yeah, im the one that mention we are in our 50s. Next reason for not a lift as you get older it gets tougher to keep lifting heavy items into high bed or high cab. For me this one reason I bought the BigTex trailer its only 16 inches above the ground and goes off road too for firewood. Another reason giggle about lift kits, Im dragging my 16 inch clearance trailer off road. Truck got more clearance than the trailer, but I can roll large loacs without lifting. Yeah I know your only young once, enjoy life, im over the hill and starting to fall apart. Hips and lower back issues.

Wow. That was a lack of oil failure for sure. Mine were all metal fatigue. First Transmission failed when the main shaft broke at 3rd/4th syncro. Second Transmission took all of 5th gear apart. The little gear broke at least 7 teeth and ruined the bottom gear at 80 MPH.. Now warranty claims Second transmission was upgrade with brass syncros 3rd and 4th failed. (Defective) Second transmission lost 2nd syncro. (Defective) Just clearing 415k on the truck now.

Speedometer signal is at the rear diff. The shift parameter is handled by the PCM by control governor pressure solenoid. If you not done the W-T ground wire mod it would help the issues by removing the AC noise that might trigger weird shifts and low power because tach signal is muddy with stray noises from the alternator charging.

Yeah I'm one of the lucky ones, being I'm part of the fire dept I'm not required to have a CDL for fire dept equipment. Most of our crew can handle the idea of floating gears. I've gotten fairly good at it. Finally got rid of the 5.4L Ford today. Crappy design on the manifold to have the vacuum port in the rear of the manifold and the hose slipped off after doing the manifold and coolant gaskets. Then just did a coolant flush on a 7.3L Ford Diesel... Another one down...

Good answer... I got it... I just gotta pick on people now and then... You just happen to be the target this time!

The fans remain unlocked till the the thermostatic coil on the front of the fan sees enough temperature to twist the clutch lock. Now the fluid channels out to the disc and drags the fan till the thermostatic coil cools and the the oil is bought back to the hub of the clutch and now freewheels. Road speed has zero to do with it. You can be crawling the steep forest grades out here in 100+ weather and have it lock up the fan at 15 MPH. Again based on the amount of heat given off the radiator. Typically my truck lock the fan at about 220*F then it pulls the cooling air till 193*F and unlocks.

I'm a standard open diff, no limited slip. Prefer the standard diff over limited slip. Never had death wobble or and steering slop. Always had straight steering and just a bit of free play in the wheel but that is how I adjusted the steering box.

That looks like a reboxed NAPA thermostat at first but now it slightly different the jiggle pins are in the outside on the Cummins, where the NAPA one looks slightly wider mouth and flows more coolant. You can see the newest design to the right on the photo below. The two in the middle were the design closer to the OEM design MotorRad but these are still NAPA thermostats. Then the Gates thermostat on the left which is like the NAPA in design but that one is a 200*F thermostat but it failed in mere 2 weeks wild swings 170 to 230*F never settles. Personally I suggest the NAPA 180... It will look like the right one. I'm using a NAPA 190*F and ran all the way to Mohave Valley AZ towing my RV there and back NEVER had one issue with coolant temps ever. The transmission was getting hot from all the EGT heat in the exhaust. Even my screwing around in the desert and slow crawling never had a single issue with temps even hovered at 195*F typically even with temps in the 118*F and A/C running. My trip to Oatman, AZ to wonder the desert on Hwy 66... 

My clutch fan does not lock till it at least 220*F coolant temp. Mine remains unlocked for 90% of my driving. My idle temps can drop as low as 188*F in the winter being my heater core performance can suck the heat out of the coolant. Running temps I typically hover about 195 to 197*F. I never idle warm my truck, well lets say the only amount of time I'll give it is till it reaches about 80 to 100*F and hit the highway. In the winter I'll warm it slightly to get oil spread out in the engine. Then I get rolling instantly. I make more heat rolling than idling.

Some of you think I only work on the Dodge Cummins trucks. Far from the truth. I work on just about anything with wheels under it. Like my favorite truck from the Fire Dept. I've got to rework the battery cables on this beast. Cummins Big Cam 400, Eaton Fuller 10 speed. This thing is a beast and packing 4,000 gallons of water, 80,000 pound truck. I'm one of the few that can drive this truck. Shocker there is a Ford in my shop. Yup a 5.4L V3 Triton. Has a coolant leak in the crossover manifold. Rather good challenge to do but not fun. Then tomorrow morning I've got a Ford 7.3L diesel coming for a cooling system flush and then refill with coolant. I'll grab a photo of this in the morning.

LOL... Working with the wrong ladies. @Wet Vette loves my truck it looks stock and for her hips and back much easier to get into. (We are both in our 50's). The power part she loves when it flat pulls like today passed 9 cars all in the same pull. Lead car doing 40 to 45 MPH and speed limit is 65 MPH. Kicked it to 75 MPH and walked the entire pile and took the lead never seen them again. That is a 2 inch leveling kit. The easy solution is to pull those spaces out. Return to stock rake. Then the rear spacer is stock for 4WD I've got the same one on my truck. To do it right you need to change the control arms to get the geometry correct this will allow you to correct the caster angle. and the track bar should be replaced with adjustable bar. This will allow to set the thrust angle to ZERO again which 2 inch leveling kit will pull the axle to the driver side too much. You can see my rear block on the passenger side which is the same block your running.