Mopar1973Man

Here is the wire map...

Check error codes. Voltage too high is typical for broken wires too. So if there is nothing plugged in it will show the highest reading.

Nothing to worry about... Grid heaters for Idaho are only suggested to be used from October to April. After April I typically just unhook the grid heaters its just a waste or power.

Go to the setting page...Need to check your back down settings.

Grid heater will be called if the air temp is 60F. It checks both battery temp and IAT sensor.

If the circuit breaker is popping its the grid heater solenoid sticking. Just got done with this in March for my landlord.

Here is the down low on it... Right out of the Dodge FSM... Page 21-25 DTC Self Erasure With one trip components or systems, the MIL is illuminated upon test failure and DTCs are stored. Two trip monitors are components requiring failure in two consecutive trips for MIL illumination. Upon failure of the first test, the Task Manager enters a maturing code. If the component fails the test for a second time the code matures and a DTC is set. After three good trips the MIL is extinguished and the Task Manager automatically switches the trip counter to a warm-up cycle counter. DTCs are automatically erased following 40 warm-up cycles if the component does not fail again. For misfire and fuel system monitors, the component must pass the test under a Similar Conditions Window in order to record a good trip. A Similar Conditions Window is when engine RPM is within 6375 RPM and load is within 610% of when the fault occurred. NOTE: It is important to understand that a component does not have to fail under a similar window of operation to mature. It must pass the test under a Similar Conditions Window when it failed to record a Good Trip for DTC erasure for misfire and fuel system monitors.

JoAnn's fabric shop sells headliner material in black, grey and a tan if I remember right. https://www.joann.com/headliner-utility-fabric-55-black/3496072.html https://www.joann.com/headliner-utility-fabric-54in-gray/3496064.html https://www.joann.com/headliner-tan-utility-vinyl/9198672.html Then the spray glue... https://www.joann.com/headliner-spray-glue/7795040.html

Call Quadzilla for troubleshooting. The last time YEARS ago there was a wiring issue in the loom. More so for the CANBus connector. It will produce the same kind of issue. It will hook to the module head display no data nad nothing will adjust.

Might look into doing the W-T ground wire mod. AC noise can do weird thing to foul up performance of the engine and computers. I'm also running AirDog 150 than was upgrade to AirDog 165. My first pump motor last for 250k miles, second was 3G motor and failed in 7k miles. Then Upgraded to 4G pump motor and already past 100k miles on this pump motor. I'm feeding Quadzilla tuner, HX35/40 Turbo (60/60/12) and 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar injectors and only drop about 4 PSI of pressure at WOT. From 18 PSI down to 14PSI. Never trips my ISSPro gauge warning light set for 13 PSI.

Another solution is just to buy need seat foam from Geno's Garage and just replace it.

The requirement is to to do it ten times. You have to start below 140 and rises above 160 coolant temp without throwing that same code 10 times. Much easier to just use a OBDII code reader and reset the codes. OBDLink LX is like 49 dollars.

I ve done a method of rolling over till I find the compression stroke where both valves of that cylinder are closed. Like on 12V Cummins engines I tend to use this because most trucks the pin is broken or jammed. I just roll the engine over using the alternator and watch the valve train. Starting with 1 and 6 since they are running mates. Then 2 and 5. Then 3 and 4.

5 amp. Over 100k miles never blown. Anything with a inductive effect sensor. Cam sensor, crank sensor, output speed sensor, ABS sensors. Any inductive sensor creates a AC waveform when AC noise comes from the alternator it confuses any computer.

Typically it one pound of boost for every 10 horsepower. Roughly speaking.

Need more info...

Quadzilla or my high idle kit are the easiest. You could measure a stick and use a power seat to press the throttle. No. There is no option for this...

Typically the headliner is glue with contact cement or similar. I really don't know how you could inject any glue thin enough and glue it back in place with the foam most likely degrading. Not to mention not making a wet spot in the liner.

I'll have to call in my transmission man... Hey @Dynamic we need a bit of help here.

Yeah you can trade the seat cushion from left ot right and visa versa...

Be aware with all the COVID-19 crap going on the shipping might be slow. I've got stuff stuck in NY right now waiting to get here. Some stuff is coming in good time and other stuff is seriously getting hung up. Even stuff manufacture in USA.

No not really... The material is coming unglued and the foam backing is most likely degrading.

Basically the Network in the truck is damaged. These trucks run a on a 2 wire network similar to computer networks. Short to ground Short to 12V Short to 5V Open Wires Basically everything in the truck is sent over the bus to like the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), Engine Control Module (ECM)... @AH64ID would be a good one that might know something...

Look over that security stuff again. I would double check everything is returned back to stock setup. Give me a call at 208-315-1470 I can tell you a neat one wire security trick for your truck. It will prevent starting completely.

There might be software control of the ECM that might impact when and where that relay is active being the ASD relay should be capable of forcing the engine to shut down. Do you have security fob? Security system could prevent starting if available in your model. Got to ask is the WAIT TO START light coming on instantly? If not the ECM is brain dead till that light comes on which happens to be the first instruction in the ECM. If the wait to start does not come on it will not start at all.