Mopar1973Man

I would opt for 315 bar for those 7 x 0.009 injectors. Any shop can do pop testing.

Just a cheap NAPA 120 dollar radiator. I think it was a spectra radiator. My factory blew the rubber seal. Repairable.

Bearing will be fine most likely but the tone ring will have spun free and broke its spot welds.

B5 which most of Ontario runs. Like now I will not use biodiesel is too risky for gelling issues so I can run a new test in the late spring.

Start out typically at 305 or 300 bar. Bottom limit is 293 bar. By 260 bar engine load typically bottoms out 0 engine load. Hence why I started at 320 bar for economy and longevity reasons. Upper limit from the Dodge FSM is 327 bar.

Try again... 250 miles per day minimum. Idled in the garage this morning 20 minutes, then while I'm waiting today 4.5 hours ill be idling most of that time trying to stay warm. My day will be 13 hours long sitting in the driver seat. 3 days a week (TTS). Funny part only the Quad has issues. My Bluetooth headset work prefect, blue tooth speaker perfect, Bluetooth stereo no problems, Quad... 50/50 hit miss.

Yeah got it...

That green marker was 120 mile round trip to Boise running the interstate at 82 MPH @ 2500 RPMs. Just short at 19.92 MPG. Remember for every 1 pound of rotational mass you can remove is like 8 pounds off the frame weight. Oh 405k miles on the clock. Injectors are good still with 7 to 12% idle engine load. That 320 bar pop pressure really helps.

Yes you need to change all the unit bearing in the front with new sensors and the problem will be solved. Note of warning you could replace the sensors alone but if the tone rings are damaged in the hubs it will not fix the problem. What it is that the sensor is reading on wheel at ZERO speed and you touch the pedal the ABS will back pump the pedal and prevent braking because it thinks one wheel is already locked up tight and trying to get the speed back. Been there done this... Just remember I've got 3 sets of sensors and never fixed it till I replace both front unit bearings then the lights went out and problem solved.

Me its about the monthly budget. Currently about $600 to $650 a month in fuel to keep Mom going to dialysis. Then you break it down and figure the cost per mile 0.16 to 0.19 cents per mile. Then when looking at fuel prices... 10 gallon price - I use this measure more so than price per gallon. I never buy just 1 gallon. Typically 12 to 14 gallons. John Day - 30.39 Molalla - 30.09 34.09 Ontario for me... Ontario - 34.59 Payette ID - 32.99 New Meadows 34.59 Riggins - 33.59 Cost per mile is a measure also that shows rate of usage vs cost. MPG is only a small window of info.

I'm located the same way in my cab too. The only difference I called Quadzilla and talked them and got the go ahead to extend the cable into the cab which was cut and soldered and shrink tube. (Beta test request) Works but this way but still issues with connection and retrying to connect for miles before it actually does connect.

The stock is 1/4 turn then pull out and the another 1/4 turn to open. My new radiator is just a threaded plug in the radiator.

LED for sure is NO. It will not melt any snow or ice. HID is maybe depends on how fast the snow is falling and how cold. Up here with -20*F and heavy snow will bury the lens over. Typically no issues. I've only had my HID cover over twice now that's it. The LED's for sure are covered every single trip. In bad storm I'll stop from time to time to just clear the LED's but the HID typically will barely burn a hole through on warmer days (20 to 32*F).

Funny thing I just scaled my truck. Front was 4,400 pounds, the rear was 2,900 pounds, for a total of 7,300 pounds currently. Here is current fuel logs with winterized fuel and outside temps between 0*F and 25*F most days. Remember I went down in tire size to increase the rear ratio. Going from 265's to 245's change the final ratio to 3.69:1 which is super quick and extremely low in engine load at 22-25% at 80 MPH. My 65 MPH is rough 15-17% engine load.

Dead pedal - is when the throttle does nothing period but idle. Limited Pedal - is when the throttle works but limits to a particular road speed or RPM. Now if there is a APPS issues with dead pedal it will ALWAYS set a code. Now a dead pedal without a code is typically the VP44 PSG failing. This is because the ECM commands a value that is out of range and the PSG is protecting from a wide open throttle or below idle fueling which would stall the engine. Limited pedal is typically the ECM being the fueling map is damaged.

Made it through Christmas. It was quite the family gathering here. Eileen and I made a big ham dinner. We had my Mom come down to the guest house for dinner. Then Eileen's son family came to spend Christmas with us. I started Christmas morning with rebuilding a front driveshaft so I was ready for today's haul back south to Ontario. I will quickly say SKF u-joint have upgraded design with better seals and should hold up better. The very front u-joint was salt contaminated. So the red grease was turning white from salt and then with bit of rust inside as well on the metals. Everyone made it here about 4pm and the dinner began. Jacob and family stayed the night in my RV. They will be heading out this morning after me just about day break. I'm going to be out in the dark at 7:15am like usual. Eileen will be starting her new job this morning too. M E R R Y C H R I S T M A S T O E V E R Y O N E

Myself I'm running a HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) with 150HP Injectors (7 x 0.010) @ 320 bar and Quadzilla Tuner. No problem to hit 47 to 50 PSI of boost. I've never move a boot or clamp ever. I'm running Vulcan Performance boots.

Last batch I bought was Prestone and SuperTech Universal and both were the same yellow coolant but that was some years ago. I'm back to NAPA green on this load of coolant and creek water.

Do yourself the favor and just change the thermostat. Please don't go the Cummins / Mopar route being Cummins and Mopar do not manufacture thermostats and currently Cummins and Mopar is using a Robertshaw 320 high flow thermostat which is produced by Mr. Gasket. Very poor quality thermostat that will separate and drop the bypass shutter in the block because of the junk design. Suggestion: NAPA thermostats have been working awesome for years here.

Be better to re-do all the vacuum lines with air brake line and fresh vacuum hose rubber. I'm sure there is way better routing that could be done. It doesn't have to be routed through the middle of everything. No it does not have to run along the cowl either.

The original stealth cover was designed as a plastic cover with holes drilled. Then the tap hole was threaded in the plastic. Common to strip out. Then it was updated to a hex hole on the back that is snug enough to hold the nut with plastic tension. Then the screw threads into the nut now. I've got both versions of covers the old is in my toolbox and the current upgraded on the pump now.

Beyond me... Rare to see biodiesel here in Idaho. Then the price of biodiesel here if you do find its roughly 15 to 30 cents a gallon more per gallon over a gallon of petroleum diesel. Every time I get to Ontario, OR which is biodiesel required state and it just as high as the highest price diesel in Idaho. New Meadows is 3.399 a gallon and Ontario is 3.459. Then if I stop in Payette, ID I get super low price of 3.299 a gallon. When I tested biodiesel from Ontario I took a loss in MPG's always did better with petroleum diesel.

I told you the money is worth it by a long stretch. Wait till you out on a lone road and tall trees and you'll see a way different pattern. Like I love the fact of the light pattern is super wide. It much wider than the highway then vertically it can light up just about 50 foot tall tree to the top. Make sure to set your step on the yellow center line. Then just enough vertical height to cover the pavement but not up on reflectors along the road or signs. Already have nearly 100k miles on my light no issues. Shutter, relays, bulbs, or ballast. All working as designed. You won't be able to install stock halogens again because the guts of the HID's have to have the lens pulled off and then remove the HID's then you could install the stock halogens again... Not possible on the road. Every morning the HID's are on for 2.5 hours and then every evening 2.5 hours they are one for the trip home. Power usage is much lower vs. halogen. 35w is quite a reduction vs. 60w halogen burning. Chances of failure is low. Next step would be convert the rest of the truck to LED tail lights and marker lights. Huge power usage reduction as well.

Total cost of what is in the front of my truck is $1,000 worth of street legal lighting. My Morimoto D2S air aimed properly the cut off line is way low no way to blind anyone. My PIAA LED Driving lights are 100% street legal and proper cut off not like LED light bars which are not street laws in all cases. Play headlight war with me though and I will promise to light the inside of your cab like the sun just went super nova. Once in a great while I might the little low rider or such wink at me and then get the cab lit up. What? Really you need a shop for that? I've got the u-joints and the center ball for the cardan joint. Ran out of time yesterday but I'm going to repeat my last rebuild. Starting to vibrate in 4WD.