Mopar1973Man

Like for multiple reasons I dropped to 245/75 R16 tires and love them. Way better power, better MPG, and less failure brakes and steering.

DAP = Diesel Auto Power (Utah) great vendor supplied most of all my parts.

Ok... Dotted underlined words just hover with a mouse it will show the WOT definition. In this case (Wide Open Throttle) to force that engine to produce max boost for a period of time to exercise the wastegate arm. Inside the injection pump and requires full replacement of the injection pump. I would suggest DAP for supplier for injection pump. Good prices and good service. Basically in a nutshell you need a new injection pump. Then you would need to pull that turbo and see if you can free the wastegate. If not you'll need to upgrade the turbo. Oh forgive me I'm a Ubuntu Linux laptop and don't use Windows.

ABS module can't be removed... Speedometer won't work. Grid heaters won't shut off after 20 MPH. Cruise control will fail. Maybe a few other issues.

Wastegate could be rusted shut. Common problem for people in salt environments or don't work the truck hard once in awhile (WOT operation to work the wastegate) which is the P0234 code. Like my own truck it will typically see a few WOT operations per trip passing on the highway at just about 47 PSI of boost. P0216 code is the fuel pressure possibly, lack of fuel lubricity, poor filtration (excessive wear). The timing piston becomes damaged and the ECM calls for timing and the VP44 can't respond fast enough.

Full diagnostic documents for your codes. Corrected definitions.

The other thing that should be looked at is fuel pressure. Would be a good idea to check on too with a test gauge.

There is a expert function to the OBDLink where you can use Bluetooth terminal and call commands to the computers (PCM and ECM).

White cotton looking fiberglass.

Moog and Spicer are junk. Like myself I've got a cheap set of AC Delco's in my truck still going strong.

I've been working in my spare time to get more wood split and stacked. Being that winter is starting late here I'm not really using mush wood right now. Still got 2 more cords suppose to be delivered soon. Like this morning it 44*F and mild here little rain in the night.

Might be easier to take a torch blow a hole through the ball joint, push the stud out and then using hacksaw like score the cup and hit with a hammer it will fall out. No more fighting for me. So much easier to remove stubborn ball joints.

Just best to skip that method unless you have a 2002 then it works correctly. 98.5 - doesn't work 99 - doesn't work 00 - may work but only PCM codes. 01 - may work PCM only typically late 01 might have the early 02 software. 02 will report both ECM and PCM correctly.

My OBDLink LX will work on any thing. CEL lit or not.

I met @Wet Vette back in April 10 of 2019. We have been dating for some time off and on through the summer. She had a bit of misfortune and lost her job. I told her to move in with me. We are trying to get everything organized and working better. Hence why I've been out and not around much. Now that we are getting caught up I asked her to meet my other family.

Possibly. That why we need the error codes and test fuel pressure. These two test will rule out what is possibly going on.

No has zero to do with the turbo or wastegate. Most error codes do not produce a check engine light. Yes use a OBDII code reader and the list will be given of what is wrong. Now when you do list the numbers here and well look up the codes together.

I'd just reach into my A/C seal kit and grab a few o-rings till I got the right one.

Nope has nothing to do wit it. Need to test for error codes and fuel pressure. Then check fuel pressure. If fuel pressure is to low it can't advance timing hence the white smoke. There could be a P0216 code that is timing code of the VP44 which is cause from low fuel lubricity and low fuel pressure. Once the pump housing gets hot the the timing piston will move again. Hence driving normally. Most likely a bad VP44 but error codes and fuel pressure test will bring that forward. This is a seized timing piston.

Dig deeper my friend you'll find that it is close to GL-4 but not making the grade because it just too thin.

That's the problem I would say for longevity sake to go towards a thicker lube so it clings to the bearings and gears more. Most 6 speed owners will whine about shift performance. Like using a thin oil in the engine will reduce engine drag and make starting easy but will not protect well in high temperatures. Thin oils will be flung from parts much easier. Being there is no oil pump in NV5600 its all about splash feeding and cling of the oil to protect. Like myself I ditch the whole spec thing and started looking for other solutions for lube oils in both NV4500 and NV5600. I dropped the 75w-85 for straight 50 SAE fluid which is actually straight 90 gear lube. So the factory fluid for the NV4500 is like a 10w-40 engine oil. NV5600 like Pennzoil syncromesh doesn't list a viscosity but it's classified as to thin to make the GL-4 spec. The 75w-85 makes the GL-4 spec. That means the PennzOil is thinner than what is listed. I can say that as long as the lube oil meet a GL-4 spec it should work. GL-4 spec is for all transmissions with syncros (yellow metal or synthetic). Just remember that these gear boxes under serious loads can surpass the 200 to 220*F of fluid temps and with a thin oil getting thinner I can see where the 6 speed failures come from. Remember there is no oil pump just splash feed oiling. Just always remember that Dodge is willing to drain and fill both NV4500 and NV5600 with ATF+4 now. I know that is super thin and does not meet the GL-4 spec at all.

Preheat is controlled by the IAT sensor. Post heat is controlled by the battery temp sensor

The problem I see with NV5600 transmission... Even one keeps leaning on the thinner fluids (what spec suggests) by under load and temperature the fluid is thinner and fluid isn't thick enough to cling to bearings in the heat. Why they have bearing failures and need to over fill. Just remember PennzOil Syncromesh is too thin to make the GL-4 rating. Other than that its build on GL-4 technology just the oil is just too thin to be labelled as such. Just like Dodge Dealers filling with ATF now. Shift quality is super good but the protection of bearings and such suck because the lube is too thin.

I've got all Felpro from the head up. No issues here.

No. I've got barely 2 cords of wood split and stacked. Going to be a tight winter for heating. I'm hoping my horse trading works out and I get 2 more cords of wood split from doing a heater core in 3rd Gen.