Mopar1973Man

Like I learned from another member here might not get brake fade but just the heat of long downhills is enough to heat up the grease in the unit bearing and make them fail premature. Unit bearings are not cheap. At least in Idaho. We've got a few that as steep or more.

My MPG up being its expensive to travel 1,000 miles a week. I did like you Chevy DieseFuture just not a good daily driver that is for sure. It would kill me to drive that back and forth to Ontario. Out in the back country I bet that thing is a blast.

Funny you bring that one up. I've got my buddy in New Meadows that owns a V10 Dodge and parked it because it cost too much to drive. Loves the power but its a fuel hog. His is a 1 ton truck and more tires and does about the same for MPG's. Told him he should trade that for a Cummins or at least swap a Cummins into the frame.

Awesome Chevy @Dieselfuture. Still that is a lot of rolling resistance and drag. Takes a lot power to keep slinging those huge tires around even with good gearing.

Not really. When you figure like @JAG1 a set of units bearing in the front, rotors, calipers, and brake pads. Once you run a steep grade and you overheat the brakes most everything will need to be replaced for safety. JAG1 found out that the heat from the rotors cooked the grease out the unit bearings, warped the rotors, burnt the brake pads, and possibly doing seal damage to the calipers. Only takes one steep grade to do damage. Even better yet he wasn't towing. Just carrying his camper in the bed of the truck. $1,000 only covers maybe 2 sets of everything.

No, not really. Being you need the PCM to start the CCD network. You need the ABS computer for road speed signal. Without the PCM you can't read any error codes from the OBDII port. Without the PCM the speedometer won't work and the grid heater won't cancel for road speed. These are common issues with retro fitting 24V ISB Cummins. Once you isolate the ECM its a dumb computer and lots of other mods end up happening. Best to fix the existing problems that moding around the problem.

Nothing special here just the 3.55 gears, 5 speed transmission, stock 245/75 R16 tires on 16x7 stock steel wheels. This is what Dodge and Cummins designed the truck to run with. As for the quoted sweet spot we can't run that exact sweet spot for all speeds. The only thing that actually changed is I'm 5 MPH slow vs RPM. So I'm about 200 RPM higher for 80 MPH vs 235's / 265's tires. Which all all stock sized tires. My 66 MPH is a exact 2,000 RPM where before it was like 1,8xx roughly. Still running what Dodge and Cummins designed. I do like the rise in RPM it has been netting better MPG overall on average. Being I need less torque to keep rolling which can be seen in engine load.

Regardless... I came to the table with what facts that I can provide. No theories here, all post information was taken from the trip to Nampa and back to Ontario. The MPG numbers is posted from my previous trip to Nampa and back to Ontario. Again EGT's are lower, engine load is lower than most and making 19.58 MPG at 80 MPH. The part most I don't think are calculating is frontal area increase in lifts and larger tires. Then the rotational mass of the larger tires takes even more energy to keep twisting. Wind drag where a vehicle standing taller in the wind is going to have more drag. Like the OP installed a 4 inch lift, and oversized tires. For every 1 pound of rotational mass you can drop is like 8 pounds off the frame in rule of thumb. Again adds up to more drag. More about rotational mass... http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html Still got 3.55 gears, 245/75 R16 stock sized tires, 150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar), HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo (60/60/12), factory steel wheels (16 x 7), and my economy tune with some steep timing. No other magic here. Wheels and tires are what Dodge and Cummins designed the truck to run with. Like the drag coefficient on my truck in factory trim is 0.41. A one ton dually Dodge has a drag coefficient of 0.49. I can see a lift kit and oversized tires going up in the 0.5 to 0.6 realm adding huge amount of drag.

Your like @pepsi71ocean he's got the same front rotors too. I wonder if there is a way to just swap the unit bearing and be able ot use the later style?

Figure after the June 17th. I'll be done with all my hospital stuff. Thank you for the kind comments.

I've got a smaller turbo. (60/60/12) plus my injectors are 150 HP (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) so I require less fuel to spool up. Bottom end for mine is just slightly smoky but clean enough to keep big city cops off of me. Beyond that I built the tune to keep the wiretap high in the boost realm so you run mostly on the CANBus till you stand on it. Designed most for MPG numbers. You can bring the wiretap down in boost pressure and it would kick in quicker. That the beauty of Quadzilla you can have as many tunes as you want.

I made a rather simple spreadsheet to math out things and be able to visualize your settings a bit better. Here is the way I typically build. This spreadsheet allows to pick a starting percentage then build a offset ramp to your liking.

Sorry but yea. It was because the only 2% were donating and the other 98% where riding for free. We've got server bills and I've got my own bills with the hospital as well. When the income drops so low that its not covering all the bills before paying myself there is a serious problem and the site will end up closing. So now way lower rates everyone pitches in a smaller chunck but now will help in keeping the site functional and allowing me to pay my own bills too. I totally agree. I've never been that low even in Boise traffic.

Not all 53 blocks will crack as @cajflynn about his 1.3 million mile 53 block and hauling boats.

@dripley right on the money.

Typically drops low. My DiPricol did fail and was reading half the temp it should. Being that pyrometer problem is a bi-metal pair and creates a very small millivolt signal. As the probe fails the voltage drops. Some EGT gauge use a signal amplifier to boost the signal for the gauge.

No the economy pads from RockAuto. I think I pad like $39 bucks for them many years ago. I only replaced my rear rotors because the parking brake top hat was grooved too bad. The trick I drive like the center pedal is missing. I rarely use that pedal at all. All transmission and exhaust brake. Still got factory OE rotors in front yet. Even on my 1996 Dodge V8 gasser its auto transmission and a throttle plate. (No exhaust brake here) I drive with a safe stopping distance and allow the road to dictate the speed at which I travel. There is no sense in racing to a corner, slam on the brakes to accelerate again. Slow down a touch so you coasting to a corner then lightly make up your speed. This because a balancing point.

Between the ISSPro in the a-pillar and the Quadzilla on the cellphone both have there own probe. Typically a drift of +50 on the Quadzilla vs the ISSPro. As for my results it very repeatable. When I'm driving nearly 1,000 miles per week. Just a stock tire size on 3.55 gears. Nothing special. Even if I went back to 265's / 235's (31" inch) the pyro would rise closer to 800°F and then the engine load rises. Looking back on old notes back when I was running 235's with the +75 HP injectors I was hitting 750°F for EGT's. Like I posted above my singled out fuel MPG test was 19.58 MPG for running 80 MPH for 88 miles. Still in all, if I can reach this low EGT temps running 2.5k RPMs, What is the posters problem? I presented all my data and facts now to try and figure out why he can come close to what I've got happening. Both have 150 HP injectors, both got Quadzilla, Both running HX40 turbo (will HX35/40 hybrid for me). No reason he can't do at least half as good.

Nope. Lower makes the EGT's higher and engine load higher. Just the change from the 235's to 245's is what did this trick for me. Remember wind drag is exponential so it even higher at 80 MPH. So you need the RPM's up to overcome the drag. At 66 MPH I'm a prefect 2,000 on the tach and the EGT's float 550°F. At 55 MPH it drops to 450°F. I've got to ask @kzimmer what is your 80 MPH EGT's like with 35" tires?

Yup. Plus the tuning and having the timing cranked up 26°. I'm still capable of getting 19.5 MPG running 80 MPH. 23% engine load I'm not even putting much fuel out.

I84 instates between Ontario, OR to Caldwell, ID. That where I picked up this data at.

Good one for @Dynamic he would know.

No. Sounds like the wastegate motor is shot.

For information purpose. This is what 245/75 R16 tires on 3.55 gear and Quadzilla Tuner does at 82 MPH at 2,486 RPM. Remember -50°F from the EGT's and +1 to MPH to be correct. Yup... 627°F for EGT's rolling on flat ground at 82 MPH. Boost floats at about 7-10 PSI. The most I have seen climbing the rolling hills is 750°F and 15 PSI of boost. Flat ground it dances around the 625-675°F for EGT's. So using this as a base rule of what could be reached I'm still very puzzled of what is causing his EGT's and Engine Load to be so high. Personally, I still think is the final gearing ratio. 3.36:1 final to the ground is just too much plus added 4-inch lift increasing the frontal area of the truck adding more wind drag. There is just something causing it to fuel harder and create way more heat.

Even with the boost hose and bolt missing out of the manifold didn't change boost much maybe lost 5 PSI.