Mopar1973Man

You could blow $1,700 on a Smarty Touch so you can have 60 HP tuner that is just as adjustable as a Quadzilla. Sad to say that same Smarty Touch on a CR engine now jumps from 60 HP to 210 HP. I'm sorry to say Smarty Performance King didn't put any effort into the Smarty S-03 tuner software which is the very same software on the Smarty Touch.

Just keep in mine that Smarty doesn't advance as far as the Quadzilla. Quadzilla can do a max of 32° of timing advancement from TDC. Then Quadzilla has timing controls to retard timing in the initial stab of the throttle to all for turbo spooling. Low PSI Timing Reduct Timing Reduct Scaling Then you have the Max Load Timing Offset so when you drop out of cruise timing it retards timing the set amount vs engine load this always for building boost just off of cruise timing when engine load increases. As a daily driver can use 1.0° or 1.5° of offset. Then as your cargo or trailer load increases, you can add more offset to protect the engine. While you all are playing with a little +60 HP tuner with unknown setting there is a 180 HP tuner that has full control of fuel and timing.

EGR valve is nothing more than a vacuum leak to exhaust stream. I would do a test on compression and see if the cylinder has damage. Then do a vacuum test to see if there is valve damage. You might pull the EGR valve and make a block off plate for test purpose. I typically make the block off from an old pop can.

2002 Cummins ISB was changed over to a single wire oil pressure sensor.

Hx40 has a weaker turbine shaft. This why the HX35/40 hybrid was made. The stronger HX35 turbine is used and then the HX40 compressor. Or... Some mod the HE351 turbo. Basically the same specs.

@dripley Is right 2002 there was changes done but the FSM don't show it.

My problem is I spend so much time studying how I'm going to do a modification or addon that it ends up taking serious extra time and part digging. Then figure out how I want it set up. Then actually building the setup. Some times it takes several months...

Most here go for the 62/68/12... My 60/60/12 HX35/40 hybrid I grabbed it for the fact I didn't want to lose my exhaust brake which most aftermarket turbos you end up losing the exhaust brake (turbo mounted) then moving to in-pipe exhaust brake.

Make sure to double check your passenger side battery negative terminal.

Just for my head gasket job... Head gasket kit, replaced 18 valve guides, valves, surfaced, checked for cracks, etc. Was right at $2,000. Just repaired the damaged stuff and installed. Still in all, there is no sense in any head work unless you plan on WOT nearly all the time. Just not going to be any gains... Yeah signature would be good...

That Edge Comp isn't going to be set up for 150 HP injectors very well. I tend to agree there is something wrong with the Edge Comp box. I've got to ask was this the proper Edge Comp for this engine? You didn't modify the MAP sensor leads to make it work? Then being your missing the PCM there is no way to read error codes. I would disconnect the Edge Comp and run without it and see if the problem goes away.

If your injecting the fuel too late and the ignition is occurring after TDC then the power is completely wasted and fuel most likely isn't being burned completely. Might see a gray haze. Then what is your CANBus fuel curve like? Then what is your wiretap settings like? Yes. I know exactly how to create massive smoke that just proves that your way over fuelled and wasting the power. Black smoke could prove that your timing is off depending on when the black smoke is seen. Black smoke is not good period! Just means your flooding out the engine and lacking boost pressure.

Exactly... Majority of us are just daily drivers here. None of that will amount to anything being you don't run WOT all the time. Like myself, my average engine load is 17 to 19% and about 2-3 PSI of boost at 65 MPH. Flow is super low so there is nothing to gain by porting the head. Now if your 1/4 mile racing, dyno queen or tractor pulls then your going to see some gains by porting and such where you run WOT nearly 100% of the time. Just upgrading 3-inch exhaust to 4-inch exhaust on my Cummins gained me ZERO. No change in MPG, no change in EGT's, no change in power. Just like intakes don't gain anything for daily drivers because the flow is too low. Now as for injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar), turbo (HX35/40 hybrid 60/60/12), and Quadzilla now that had produced serious power gain. EGT very controlled. MPG at 20.64 at the last tank. Can tear the tires loose on command. Awesome sprint truck. Drop the hammer its passing 85 MPH in the length of a semi-truck from 45 MPH. There is more to it being I've got a correct final gear ratio to the ground at 3.69:1 where most are on oversized tires and below 3.55 heading towards 3.00:1 which add massive amounts of load on the engine and heat.

Just go to... https://mopar1973man.com/register Fill in the blanks and go from there.

The sender is dead on the money at 17.5 gallons displayed on the Quad at 1/2 tank. I've been below 1/8 tank few times and Quad gallon display has right there within +/- 0.05 gallons typically.

Another way to look at it. Here is the stock 30-inch tires sizes and dimensions. Here is the stock 31-inch tire sizes and dimensions. Then the popular 285...

RV275 injectors. You need to look at the timing setting you over advanced. That is the only reason it popping and backfiring. I would start out with 15, 18, 21, 24 with a Max of 25. Then on the Low PSI Timing Reduct set it for 5 and then 50% scaling. Be a good start. You need a good amount of retard on sudden WOT operation. That is why the backfire or bucking. Like my truck even with 7 x 0.010 injectors, I can reach over 28* without backfiring or bucking. Retarding timing will build boost rapidly by dumping more expanding gases out the exhaust manifold to the turbo. Once the turbo lights off then the Quadzilla can advance the timing and pour the fuel too it.

Ah... I was hoping there was an update. Thanks, I'll give that a try tomorrow. I assume its this update then... Opps, that's a 2.8.4... @Quadzilla Power you need to upload the 2.8.5 here on M73M.com...

As for the flooding it pretty well over. Things are drying up for now. As for the MPG game. 20.64 MPG on the last tank. I was hoping for much more being I past 300 miles at the 5/8 mark on the fuel gauge.

Somedays I wish I never sold my 1973 Dodge Charger...

The way I look at Smarty S-03. No matter how much you can adjust the Smarty S-03 you still have to play by the rules of the ECM. It is like having an Edge Comp or Edge Juice (no wiretap) that is stuck on Level 1 but sublevels you can adjust. Remember CANBus fueling is from 0 to 4095. That is it. There is no magic bullet than the Smarty S-03 can do to expand past that fuel limit. Timing wise yeah you can adjust it but no one really knows what the map looks like. Is it optimal for larger injectors, not really? The only thing a Smarty S-03 does is get to the 4095 faster than stock. Torque Management allows for fuel early heading to 4095.

Stock sizes... 265/75 R16 245/75 R16 (door sticker) 235/85 R16 One ton 215/85 R16 One ton

35 inch tires and 3.55 gears is a bad combo. Always high in EGTs. I'm down to 550 at 65 MPH now but 30 inch tires and 3.55 gears.

Give up. You'll never finish that list. I'm still fixing crap and adding back to the list.

I'm curious if there is a update of firmware for the Quadzilla. I've lost count of what version I've got and what is the current version. I've got fueling issue in the 1000 to 1200 RPM range. For some reason Quadzilla oscillates up and down regardless of timing. You can watch engine load jumping up and down.