Mopar1973Man

Just like my buddy thought too. Taken a 3rd gen flatbed and heavy front bumper and increased overall truck weight by 1,400 pounds. Now trying to gain MPG back and lower EGTs which now are higher.

No. Mine failed at 350k miles and required a 50 ton press to get them out. The first one I beat out with sledgehammer and took better than 4 hour beating to get the old joint out. The other one I could move at all and required a 50 ton press.

Other solutions for lighting... Why not go brighter and lower amperage draw. My Morimoto HID headlights are mere 35w and brighter than factory headlights much wider path of light. Then the PIAA LED 530 driving lights are even brighter than my Morimoto HID and draw a mere 15w total. Then my last mod was installing switchback marker bulbs which are seriously bright and draw a mere 3.1 amps. Much more lighting than old school halogen bulbs with much less load on the alternator. Body grounds are the smaller gauge wires from the body to the battery. I've been looking at it differently by finding ways of improving things but reducing the electrical loads on the alternator.

Every truck I've ever seen with cab light did leak at some point. This applies for Ford, Chevy and even Dodge.

It took me 3 years to get the Quadzilla all figured out. I'm still learning new tricks all the time. Start easy. Set it for level 3 and work with only the timing and the CANBus fuel. Another tuning tip... With timing, you want to set the timing so you get the lowest engine load possible with minimal knock/rattle. So start with 16, 19, 22, 25. I'm thinking with the amount of fuel you are going to be needing even more than this but its a starting place. One that worked with my old 7 x 0.0085 which were worn out was 15, 19, 23, 27 this gave +4 spread between bands getting the timing up fast in the RPM's. This might work better with large nozzles. Not sure but just odd thoughts running through my head. As for fuel... Set for level 1 and keep working the valet mode down till you can accelerate heavy without smoke. Now switch up to level 2 now work your low boost fuel till you can reach 100% without smoke. This will build the defuel band to get the turbos to light. Now switch up to level 3 and build your entire fuel curve from the 100% to 150%. Again this is not done overnight, or in one day. Takes days of testing and debugging to get right. This why most Canned Tuners are OK for smaller injectors but absolutely suck for larger. The timing map is all wrong and the fuel map is too aggressive and smoke is typically a big issue with Canned Tuners. Bigger the injector the more timing typically needed, and more defuel needed down low.

Fine a set of stock sized tires to temporarily mount on the truck and see the difference. 31-inch was stock size typically but even 30-inch was stock too. As tires go up in size the lower the final ratio. Optimal for these truck is in the 3.55 to 3.73 final ratio.

So your final ratio is very low at about 3.22:1 which is why the truck struggles to clean up. To just get back to 3.55 ratio your axle gears would have to be 3.93:1 or for that axle you want 4.10 gears optimally... this would change the acceleration curve seriously. I admitted early this is partly out my scope. I'm making an honest stab in the dark.

Need tire size too. I'm trying to figure your final ratio out. This will make a difference in the tune, Like me, I dropped the 265's and sitting down on 245's which are a 30-inch tire. This affects the fuel curve and how quickly you can bring in the fuel without smoke. So if your ratio is 3.55 and less then you are going to need a much deeper cut of fuel and for a longer period till boost. 3.55 and higher ratio you can clean up smoke and spool much quicker so fuel can be brought in faster and get the wiretap in sooner. So this is what I figure the fuel curve too. So just in me dropping from 265's to 245's tires, it changed the final ratio from 3.55:1 to 3.69:1 this produces more torque at the rear axles and the smaller tires let the torque out to the ground easier. Then the ratio allows for fast spool up and acceleration has some G force in it now. So the final ratio has an impact to the tune. This is also a factor why one mans hardware does not work out the same for another man. Being there is other things that could impact the final output of your hardware and tune. Just thinking of the timing. Being you most likely have larger than stock you going to need to lean on the low boost timing and the percentage. This will allow you to have a fairly deep amount of retard of timing to get those turbos spooled up. As for the exact number I'm not sure what will work. Being this is based on the timing max. Just more food to digest...

That is something I don't suggest. I see this a lot where people attempt to copy someone else design but never quite get it right. You need to build one step at a time and fix bugs in the design as you go along. Using someone else design may or may not work out very well. Depending on the design and purpose of the use. Smoke can be altered by the pop pressure of the injectors. This is a double sided sword. One side you can raise the pop pressure and clean up the burn. Then the other side of the sword is that with higher pop pressures you lose some flow rate. I would consider the having them pop tested again if you unable to clean it up with tuning. Quadzilla is super easy. Try Smarty Touch on and you think twice about how easy Quadzilla is. Basically you need to build a fuel map and timing map first and run level 3. Forget the wire tap for now. Simply more timing is needed to clean up smoke basically you need to injector fuel early to get enough compression heat to vaporize the fuel to make it go BANG! When the timing is too retarded the fuel sizzles and smokes and produces no power. Now the CANBus fuel map is easy just figure your starting point using level 1 and start building a fuel map on up. As for tunning it's not once and you're done. Nope. I've now released 3 versions of the same tune fixing issues one at a time. I'm soon going to release another update and fix things from day to day driving. @Miami Outlaw Diesel I've got to ask what axle ratio and what size tires are you running?

Yea... true but don't whine about super low MPG after strapping on an extra half ton of bumpers. Rather common up here the ranchers do the same thing put on heavy bumpers and steel flatbeds and wonder why the truck dropped from the nice 19-21 MPG to mere 14 to 16 MPG. Weight is weight still takes fuel to move the extra weight.

Uhhhh.... I know this beyond my ability. @Quadzilla Power and @Quadzilla Marco Would be more able to fix this. The fuel injectors are huge. I'm not sure how to handle something that big. I'm in the 150 HP injector playground with a single (60/60/12) and much smaller tires at 30 inches and final ratio of 3.69:1. I'm going to suggest you upload your tune to the site so we can look over what you are running. I'm sure you're going to have to reach down really low in the CANBus fuel. Then the timing will have to cranked up fairly good. Take a peek at the articles... You might look at the big injector tunes we've got and try them... https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/ Moved to Quadzilla Forum to get more eyes on the matter...

My lifestyle might be on the "struggling side" but I'm managing to survive in my humble way. I've managed to keep going.

I'm holding my head high and thinking positive. The Good Lord has a plan for me. I'm doing everything I can do to keep a balance in my life and not let the stress get me down. This has been a huge eye-opener for me. I had to do something about my blood pressure. I've managed to knock that back to near normal level huffing on the bicycle. Doing 20 mile rides now. I've even changed up how I grocery shop now. I'll now do as much as I can on the bicycle and then use the truck for bigger loads. Like Thursday needed toothbrush heads from WalMart so I rode over got them. Then rode back to the truck and dropped them off. Then rode over to WareMart and picked up a few things and rode back to the truck. Yeah not far barely a mile away. Sometimes I'll go to the other end of town for Albertsons and huff back with a few items. Yeah, I've done a lot to fix my health. Now as for cancer/tumor I'm pretty sure it going to be gone. The doctor wants to put a stent in the right ureter just to protect it from the damage it's taken. I've been still dosing with my herb at night and letting it do its job.

Ummm... It made from heavy steel. Should have built it out of aluminum. Weight takes HP to move.

I stay strictly stock and managed to get 150k to 350k from all the front end parts. My tie rod ends held up the best at 350k miles, my factory ball joints last over 180k miles. The track bar at 150k miles. Unit bearings over 150k miles. The key factor in seeing things last... DO NOT put on bigger wheels and tires! I've been under stock size for most of the life of my truck. Went from 265's to 235's and extended the life of everything. Now dropped the 235's and went an inch shorter with 245's. Now keeping the transmission and driveline happier!

Some 53 blocks don't crack. Ask @cajflynn about his 1.3 million mile Cummins with a 53 block. There is hope...

Weehaw... Even better news. St. Lukes hospital just sent me a letter stating that they are going to forgive 60% of my bill with them and drops it down to just under $6,000 for what my current bill is. Now let's see how the next surgery stacks up in this and this is a pill I can swallow. https://www.gofundme.com/mopar1973man-hospital-bills Or... On the website... https://mopar1973man.com/donate/make-donation/?_new=1&goal=11

Wish me luck... now going to be heading into my next surgery. That happens on Monday, March 25th at 11am. The doctor wants to put a stent in my right ureter and explore and make sure I'm still clean of cancer. This should be my last surgery.

You'll find out that the oil will most likely be higher with the cooler on the passenger side unless you can wrap the exhaust pipe or install a heat shield. That would be more productive than the coolers.

Just to make you think... That's all I really don't think there is anything that special.

I still got serious doubt of how different it is being now Dodge dealer is now loading either NV5600 or NV4500 with ATF+4. Even the G56 in the 3rd Gens are now ATF+4. Must not be too special eh?

Better off without it. Personally your just placing the heat closer to the oil. Then it would help to do some measuring of the oil first before buying coolers. I just spent 4 months where my oil temp never got over 100*F. Then in the summer time I rarely make it over 170*F even towing. Don't even need the coolers.

Might want to catch the diff cover thread. Someone can point you to the videos. I'm on the road.

4 inch chunk of exhaust pipe fits perfect. I've got a piece in mine.