Mopar1973Man

Bingo. The Injection pump automatically raises pressure as you throttle up. Now if the injector pop pressure is too low then the fuel mist is much larger droplets and then it tends to smoke more than burn because there isn't enough time to heat the large fuel droplets to go BANG! So when you raise the pop pressure back up the 310 to 320 bar realm the droplets are much smaller and all the fuel is burnt like its meant too and the smoke is minimized.

Just like my AD 150 replacement has been rock solid. No issues with the pump I still need to fix my regulator spring which I might jump into this weekend.

Here is the timing kit by DAP... https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-cummins-timing-kit-9498ctk

Make sure not to get any gasket debris in the oil ports. A tip gave to me by another member!

Ugh. That wiretap most like is a weak fuel solenoid connection. I would pull the VP44 off so you have good access and solder and shrink tube the wire back together. Those scotch locks need to be tossed in the trash. I hate those darn things. Stealth plate is the best option.

Too much voltage loss not required.

Fuse does nothing after the mod. Unused. Only 2nd Gen trucks have a alternator fuse. Then 3rd gen trucks dropped the fuse idea.

Like I said varies vehicle to vehicle.

White smoke is a sign of retarded timing. P-pump has a timing plug on the back of the pump. Where you remove the plug a little engine oil will drain out. Now inside the plug is a plastic alignment tool. Now roll the engine over to TDC #1 there should be a metal tab in the hole now. The plastic plug is to hold the pump shaft. The hard part is the tightening the pump nut without turning the pump shaft and breaking the plastic plug off inside.

Should... I used a cheap $40 tablet on mine for years.

DVM meter... DVM has to have AC scale for 2 volts or LESS. The DVM need to be able to measure more than just 60 Hz AC frequency like house power. I know O-scope is the best way but most people don't have the money for a good one. Like myself, I use a Fluke 75 DVM and it auto-scaling and reads on just about any frequency still. After you verify that then we'll talk about ground wires and fixing them.

AC noise? Have you tested for excessive AC noise from the alternator? Bad master ground for the ECM (passenger side cable)? Most likely you're drifting slowly into this RPM band and the AC noise comes on fouling the tach signal with a harmonic that the ECM thinks it's over-revving so it cuts fuel. Then if you stand on the throttle then you pass that band of harmonic and the ECM pulls through.

Someone messed with the voltage adjustment. TPS should read ZERO at idle. I ditched ScanGauge because of all the trouble to code in new gauges or data. There is no data logging function either. That lead me to change over to OBDLink LX which is what I've got now. It automagically can detect all data on the bus without programming. Then all the common apps out there have data logging features. Then its also cordless, so you can be at the engine bay with your mobile device and still see all the gauges without cord keeping you to the cab. I've been know to pull into the garage close the door and have the truck cooling down and being able to watch all the gauges still from upstairs in the living room.

Personally, I think you got an air leak up top. Connector tube o-ring or a mis-seated connector tube or injector which allows for it to drain back to the fuel tank. Because parking nose down keep the fuel from running back uphill to the fuel tank. It could be even the return tee on the back of the head doing it too.

At least with the Quadzilla and Edge Juice is a limitation of the CANBus, MAP sensor, and ECM. OBDII port is not used at all in Quadzilla case. Totally different network. Like another one is Coolant temp is limited to 204*F and then it rolls over -40*F. Again this is a CANBus limit but now on the OBDII port the coolant report totally normal values.

Well Jeez... May I should give up then... M73M server is CentOS Linux. My home PC is Ubuntu Linux. Android is a family of LInux... All my stuff is going to break then. Strange... The only phone I broke was the one I left on my tonneau cover and it blew off into the highway and a little car ran it over. To this day it still boots up, but the radio antenna was crushed.

Very valid points. It not so much Quadzilla limit but the MAP sensor limits and ECM. MAP sensor is pretty accurate up to about 20 PSI after that the number skew and vary from vehicle to vehicle. Boost should be measured from an external gauge. Even Edge Juice has this same problem.

Sorry, I work my phone like I work my truck. Nothing I own sits around idle or light duty.

As far as I know, my factory does not have a tube at all on the return side. That being said never had a hard start problem. I'm not drawing from the sender basket. I am returning the block and overflow of the VP44 to the basket. My AirDog returns to the filler neck. All my return line are NOT submerged. Just to make you think...

LOL... Maybe iPhone (iDevices) should catch up. Android is designed for 3 Amp charge rate. Damn tiny iPhone 2 Amp chargers are too slow and don't keep up. I know my LG G5 Android phone came with 3 Amp charger straight from LG.

I'm still going to find a way without cutting up the dash.

Oh, come on now. Get out there and get that thing stuff in the dash. Cuss and swear at the old plug getting out of the dash. Then cuss and swear at the new one getting it in the dash. I can see it coming myself too. I'm sure I'll figure out a solution to get it in there.

I also just ordered my USB power point as well. I'll be installing this when I get it. I'm tired of the crappy cigarette lighter plug stuff and going to switch over to USB powered stuff. I still need to order a USB cord for my Garmin 42LM GPS. That will be two less cigarette light plugs to deal with. Be nice to have both on the normal cigarette lighter plug being that shuts off with the key. Where the power point below is constant on power. This happens to be my battery killer...

NAPA thermostat has been excellent replacements. I'm currently playing with a 180*F thermostat. The newest version from NAPA has a much wider mouth than past versions. Never had a NAPA thermostat fail yet. Alway gotten the miles out of them and never left me too cold or overheating.