Mopar1973Man

Wrong... Scale weight of each axle NOT GVWR!

Test for AC noise.

I think mine is mostly coolant pH issue. This last go around I was way past due for the coolant change being MoparMom's adventure. I know that coolant was way past due and I'm betting the pH level was corrosive enough to eat the head gasket and now the oil cooler gasket. The very thing I preach not to do is the very thing I did...

In my case it's the top side of the oil cooler towards the front. The head is dry.

Ask @AH64ID he's the AND Oil guru.

Rear seat bar make a huge difference in launching with that South Bend Clutch. Much smoother with the rear bar rebuilt.

Thanks for the warning on the oil passage. Ill make sure to watch that close.

I'm not looking forward to doing the front sway bar. I'm beting my clunk noise is there too.

I'll pick up a gasket for that and get it done.

Here is a way to get the pressure close to right.

Dang! I'm not catching any breaks these days. Doing my weekend inspection on the truck and noticed my coolant reservoir is down to the add mark just about and then noticed the small drip puddles on the floor. Tracked down the leak to my oil cooler gasket is leaking. Hopefully, that is a fairly straightforward repair for that gasket. Any information on this task would be great.

Been running NAPA track bars and with 235's and 245's I can clear 100k miles on a track bar but I do that amount of travel in about 1.5 years. The problem is the leverage force placed on the track bar by the larger tires. Rotational mass isn't the focus here but the ability of the tire and wheel lever against the track bar causing the failure.

Then there is nothing to worry about. You don't even have to worry about change oil up for the extreme cold. Personally, myself we do get minus weather at least once a winter but I typically don't sweat it because the first part the truck is parked in a unheated shop for the night typically around 40*F through the winter. Then sub-zero typically for us only last a few days to a week or so. Not worth going into panic mode. I pay attention to the logging companies and I've got friends that work the shops so I typically get heads up of temperature related issues.

Most with CAD axles rave about the idea of having the manual pull cable to allow for 2WD LO for backing trailers and other stuff around.

Not even cold yet. 55*F in the morning is a typical summer morning for me. Cold is when you start diving below 0*F now that's cold now you should consider using the block heater. Right around 32*F I start using grid heaters on the first start of the day. I don't even worry about plugging in the block heater till it diving below ZERO. Sad, part is when I'm traveling I don't have an option to plug in if it below zero. I just cycle the grid heaters twice and fire up and let it warm up for just a bit. This is why I don't panic about plugging in because once I travel somewhere there is no way to plug in again. Why worry...

It seems the non-returning fuel pumps like DDRP's tend to have a problem with cold temperatures. They will attempt to return a large amount of fuel back to the inlet side of the pump when the fuel thickens. This will typically create cavitation. This is where the pump will create its own air in the pump. The returning pumps like the AirDog and FASS don't seem to have this problem nearly as much. It's returned full to the fuel tank and not to the inlet of the pump. Another reason I'm not a fan of drawing from the basket is if the fuel is foaming up from return it will drop fuel pressure. My return and supply are not in the same basket.

Kind of like I've got the CAD axle on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500... Personally, I hate that damn thing. Doesn't lock when its suppose to and then hangs up to unlock sometimes. That truck is going cross 180k miles soon. Never done any front end work on that truck ever. The only thing I've replaced was rotors and front brake pads. Still completely OEM everything yet. The factor is the weight on the front axle and the wheel and tire configuration. This is what makes the leveraging forces on the unit bearing and front end suspension parts and a key reason for the failure.

I'm the odd duck of the pile. Still running solid front axle. Just changed out my wheel joints for the first time. Being my all-time hand math high MPG is 27.2 MPG I seriously doubt there is anything to gain by the free spin hub. My previous truck which was a 1972 Dodge Power Wagon with manual hubs and drum brakes. That thing was a huge pain in my ... I ended up breaking wheel joints all the time. I broke several locking hubs. Always packing the damn wheel bearing being the drum brakes would torch the grease so fast. I traded that in on my current truck and only replaced 2 sets of unit bearing in 360k miles. The biggest problem is when people putting large tires on unit bearing they tend to fail quickly they are not designed for wide profile tires and tall tires.

On a DDRP I'm not sure if you can get access to the regulator or not. There might be a screw adjustable regulator you might run it all the way down as low and then back up just in case the regulator is sticking. This is a AirDog 150 which is most likely a different animal from the DDRP. I use washers to shim adjust my fuel pressure up and down. The last coil of the spring I typically just egg shape it a bit. This spring I bent a L in the tip of the last coil and creating my problem.

When you can drive -40*F weather without gelling and never use anti-gel products we'll talk about that. I'm already morning lows of +19*F now.

You want your cruise timing to float about 20* at 2,000 RPM's. I'm much higher at 22 to 23 degrees of timing at cruise for 2K RPM. My 2,000 RPM happens at 66 MPH which is 3.69:1 final ratio to the ground (245/75 R16 with 3.55 gears). Set up your cruise timing there and then road test. Then nudge the timing up another degree and check the engine load and pyrometer. As you advance timing EGT and Engine Load will fall. The other factor is quality of the injectors and the pressure they are pop tested for. As injectors slide on pop pressure the timing will naturally advance but the droplets will become larger. Once a injector drop below about 280 bar efficiency falls off fast. I don't see any injectors list ed in the signature so I'm assuming it stock 235 HP injectors. If so I'm going to bet they are worn out.

Look at the regulator. I've got a similar problem right now and know might is because how I bent the last coil of the spring. It's causing the regulator to wander up and down the same way. When my check ball gets on center and stays then the whole floating up and down goes away and nearly rock solid 17 PSI at idle and stays above 15 at WOT. Lately it random drops will make the drop worse at WOT operation. I know it all the regulator screwing up on my AirDog 150. DDRP has the other flaw being your plumbing is too small if it's still hooking up to banjo bolts and stock fuel lines.

Wow. That is extremely high. I'm typically 19 to 22% engine load at 65 MPH for +75HP injectors. You got to look into you total drag, tires are a factor still rotational weight.

What we need is to find out RPM, engine load, at lets say 65 MPH.

Sound those need pop testing too. You should be able to clean those up.