Mopar1973Man

Heck even my 96 Dodge 1500 has a good kick when it shifts 2-3 gear change.

Make sure you tell that shop to use lots and lots anti-seize on everything including bolts! The one unit bearing is my fault I replaced one that failed in Boise, ID and then never thought about it. No anti-seize used and it rusted to the knuckle in less than 1 year. I tried using the air hammer tool to push out the bear but no dice. I had to beat that bearing for over 4 hours with a 6 pound hammer to get it out of the knuckle. Not fun... So like I said make sure to use lots and lots of anti-seize on all parts. Make sure to use sandpaper or hone stone to clean all holes up and remove rust. Makes assemble much better and the future change a breeze!

Yes, the sensor is supplied!

Yeah, I can fill your head with lots of info. There is a downside to my setup. Everything in the front end last so dang long it a nasty fight to remove the parts. Like I just done wheel joints for the first time in 16 years and 358k miles. One side took me all day beating on the u-joint to get it out. The other side took most of the day to just get the shaft out then had to drive to town and have a friend at the shop put it in a 100-ton press to get the joint out. So, it does suck to have things last longer.

I understand the big tire look but there are several things that people miss. We've discussed the leverage factor. Most do a leveling kit or light lift kit. Both foul the geometry of the front axle. Then the final gear ratio is typically to low now. Bigger tires reduce gear ratio number. Like your 35" tires are making your 3.55:1 axle more like 3.21:1. Now adding stress to all driveline. Optimal is 3.55 for highway or 3.73 for mixed towing/highway. But you got to calculate the tire size too.

The best thing to do is lock it down in 1st gear. Turn on your hazards and crawl off slowly just like a truck would.

Give them a shot. The problem you have is the leverage force of the 35-inch tires causing the wear on the ball joints. If I told you with 235's and 245's tire I can clear 200k miles you would understand. But no matter what larger tires and wheel will wipe out ball joints quickly because of the extra leverage forces. Basically like adding a cheater pipe to the ratchet that what the bigger wheels and tires do is lever against the ball joints.

That's because as the IAT drops below +80*F the ECM kick about another 3* to 4* of timing advancement. The 2 cycle oil makes the fuel burn slower and takes the violent knock out.

Moog got bought out by Federal Mogul. Quality dropped out.

I don't suggest Moog... No longer a quality product.

Just to toss Edge Products in. I've owned an Edge Comp for years. Good tuner for stock trucks. Same with Edge Juice. The whole problem with them is they are great for stock power trucks nothing more. As you increase injectors and add more power the timing is all wrong and the fual management is poor at best. Not capable of pulling the fuel below stock rate so there is always smoke issues. Being the timing is not adjustable yo can tweak the timing to meet the requirements of your larger injectors so typically the EGT's are higher and the performance is well OK. Again "Canned Tuners" like Edge, Diablo, Bully Dog, Smarty S-03, etc. Are designed strictly for stock injectors and stock turbos. This is the ONLY time they will produce a fairly clean burn and not a whole lot of EGT's. Even when I stepped from stock to +50HP injectors on my Edge Comp the EGT's got out of hand really easy and always smokey.

Oh fun. I got a suggestion if the ball joints don't press out easy. You can burn a hole through the center and then using a hacksaw blade to relief cut the ball joint cap. Then knock it out with a hammer.

Bad shock bushing. Bad ball joints. Bad control arm bushing. That can be check with the axle jacked up.

Let me know if the problem continues with the other injectors. If so this the injectors are not the cause.

You might want to talk to @pepsi71ocean he only had 31k miles on his DAP injectors and went from 300 bar pop pressure down to 280 bar pop pressure. Now sent them back and had the re-popped and set a bit higher and problems are gone for him. I'm closing in on close to 100k miles on my injectors I'm going to send my old stocker injectors in for new nozzles nad set the pop tad higher from stock 310 bar. When they settle in they should be close the 310 bar mark. Pop pressure make a huge difference in the quality of the spray quality and droplet size of the fuel. The finer the droplets the easier it heats and goes BANG quicker. If your pop pressure is off or low then the droplets get bigger and harder to heat quick enough to make them go BANG. Some of that fuel will sizzle and create smoke when the pop pressure is too low. I would just have those injectors checked and re-popped if too low.

Quadzilla is NOT a programmer. It injects its commands into the data stream on the CANBus in real time. The ECM is still operational but the Quadzilla creates new commands in real time set the priority bit and then the VP44 takes the Quadzilla command first. If the Quadzilla fails it will not leave to strained. Just unplug the CANBus lead and MAP sensor leads and return to stock. You back to stock ECM. As for Smarty S-03 or Smarty Touch they are both Programmers and have the possibility of damaging the ECM or making the truck unusable. If the flash goes bad the truck will not even start or run. Smarty is suppose to be able to recover from most programming mistakes. Still there are some programming mistakes that require a phone call to Smarty and get a fresh recovery flash and reflash the ECM again properly to make the truck run. Quadzilla Adrenaline @ DAP - $675 The only thing Quadzilla doesn't include is the fuel pressure sensor. Comes with everything including the pyrometer. Ready to use in a mere few minutes of plugging in. You can do all your custom tuning right on your mobile device no PC required. Quadzilla does require a PC for flash updates but can be done with Windows, Linux and Mac. Just have Virtualbox windows and flash your update. Smarty Touch @ DAP - $875 Smarty Touch Pyro probe @ DAP - $155 Smarty programming dongle @ DAP - $259 Smarty ComMod @ SmartyResource - $209 Total - $1498.00 So to do the very same thing as a Quadzilla with the Smarty it will cost you double and still only a CANBus tuner. The Smarty Touch as a standalone is only the S-03 tuner. So if you want custom programming you have to buy all the other stuff. The dongle is to unlock the UDC pro software to allow you to make tunes. The ComMod always you to apply tunes in real time like the Quadzilla. Yeah, the Smarty does not include the pyrometer nor does it have a cooldown timer. Fuel pressure can't be read with Smarty you have to have an external gauge. You also need to have a Windows PC to build all your tunes. (No VirtualBox systems allowed)

I'm waiting for winter to set in full swing here and get cold. I've been watching the AC noise levels and waiting for it to rise. Since doing the W-T Ground wire mod is still very low at like 10mV AC and barely 29mV AC with the grid heater hitting. Still makes you think when I've got just the 1996 Dodge 1500 with the same style alternator with over 22 years of age and over 180k miles and never been replaced it still an OEM alternator. What's different? Electrical loads... Like the diodes get rather hot to the touch just as the grid heater hits. As the grid heater shut off you can feel them cool down from what air movement the alternator can create. Like I've got the Quadzilla set for a 170*F warm-up mode and 15-second delay so if the coolant is below 170*F and no moving for 15-seconds it jumps to 1,200 RPM. What I'm trying to figure out is reducing the diode heat. Once the grid heaters shut off the diodes cool right off. With the Quadzilla setup, this way helps because the alternator fan keeps the diodes cooler. Still a band-aid to the problem. If I disconnect the grid heater power supply outright the diodes never really get warm. Here I'm back to circling the grid heater again...

Mine is next on the list soon for replacement. Few minor cracks and one clip broke. Still in one piece yet but starting to get brittle.

Smarty touch would be an option but still only a CANBus tuner. It will cost considerably more than a Quadzilla. Quadzilla Adrenaline is the best option for VP44 fueled trucks. 180 HP tuner that can be completely configured without a PC. All done on a mobile device. We've got a good pile of tunes in the Download area to get started. @Quadzilla Power stops in and supports your needs here on the site. Can't ask for much more. You need to talk to our on-site transmission guy. @Dynamic he can set you up with an upgrade kit and get that transmission to hold the power you plan on using. I've got a 46RE in my 1996 Dodge 1500 built by him and it a very solid transmission that will take some abuse.

Still brings me back to why did my OEM alternator last 10 years without a single issue without modification or upgrading? What has changed to make the diodes overheat and fail? Upgrading alternator is not a solution its just another band-aid covering over the problem and not solve the actual problem that is causing the diode overheating.

Hmmm... Well see...

My cellphone does many more things... Does way more than just a screen... Cellphone calls through the stereo Voice commands (Ex: to do text messages without touching the phone) Quadzilla iQuad (Bluetooth channel 1) OBDLink LX (Bluetooth channel 2) Play MP3 from the phone I love the thought of running the Quadzilla headless which is really cool because now anyone in the truck is clueless.

I highly doubt it will be tablet sized... I figure it's going to be roughly the size of Edge Juice or Smarty Touch. Which is smaller than my LG G5 cellphone.

What I've got my hip every day I travel.