Mopar1973Man

You could just set the fuel map to 100% all the way and the Quadzilla is on a stock tune. Then you can play with timing too.

Level 0 = Stock ECM Level 1 = Valet Mode Level 2 = CANBus fuel only to 100% Level 3 = CANBus fuel Level 4 and up are wire tap MPG is about finding the lowest engine load with timing. Most will say 19 to 21 degree for timing will produce the lowest engine load.

Be thankful. 24V is fully dynamic timing. The 12V p-pump is static timing. So if you set a p-pump for 14 degree that is the timing you get across the full range of RPM. Where 24V with the Quadzilla you can get a max now of 32 degree across the full range of RPM. 24V way easier to time. Fire up the Quadzilla. As for the P-pump you have to have the timing kit. Basically remove the #1 delivery valve on the pump measure the lift of the plunger. You have to pull the gear and relocated it on the shaft and tighten the nut without turning the pump shaft. Timing kit isn't cheap either. DAP timing kit. https://www.dieselautopower.com/diesel-auto-power-cummins-timing-kit-9498ctk

Thanks for mention of the vent. Lot of people forget the vent.

Better get out the checkbook for tools. Being that all tuning is mechanical this means you need the proper tools for setting timing, etc. You thought your 24V is retarded the 12V factor timing was around 11 to 14 degrees with no advancement. Most have to advance the timing to improve the performance. Fuel wise its done with fuel plates and adjustments. DAP has adjustment for the fuel plate for in cab.

The only problem I've got is a minor fuel leak that is at the rear. Either number 5 or 6 line. I also want to replace the sealing washers on the return banjo.

2WD where you live? I say no. You'll end up parking it most of the winter or running chains.

The problem is... Speedometer signal requires the PCM to start the CCD network. Then the ABS computer has to be left installed and all speed sensors. PCM start the network and ECM can call the network for speed signal. Without the PCM the CCD network is dead and ECM is just only an engine module now. No DTC code reading either. I know in the OP condition he's most likely grid heater deleted. But without the ABS the grid heater will not shut off with road speed so the grid heater run on till it times out on the ECM. There is a lot of weird information trade between modules but PCM must be present for the CCD Bus to function.

With twin turbos, there is no way to avoid the noise I'm sure.

That will work out awesome. 245/70 R19.5 comes out at 3.93:1 final ratio using 265/75 R16 as the stock tire size and 4.10 axle gears.

Make sure you look at your gear ratio and final ratio because tire size does impact MPG and economy greatly.

Barely hear the whistle... 21* degree of timing really keeps that turbo quiet and boost low.

Here you go...

Do you have a security key fob? It's possible the truck is preventing start because the truck thinks its still locked. Is there any other error codes? Might give clues to CCD network issues or power issues. The fuel pump relay if it fails will toss a P1689 code and the truck won't start but the VP44 will start if hot wired. ASD Relay issues? I know this rare but its possible the ASD relay is clicking or preventing start up. P0606 code? That is an ECM death code and most likely will not start. Wait To Start light coming on instantly? If the wait to start light doesn't come on the ECM is not booted up and the fuel pump relay will not energize the VP44 so the pump will not start either. This is another form of ECM failure typically around the RAM being bad. All hi or lo volt codes. Another type of failure of the ECM where the 5V signal fails and could prevent starting. But again there will be a long list of error codes.

I kind of knew the answer from most was drill hole a hole drop it through the hole in the cowl. The other was to beat a dent in the body so the stud would pass. Neither are solutions I wanted to use. So I thought about it and answer my own question. Either the engine would have to drop or the cab would have to rise. Being the engine mount would have to be unbolted and lining it back up might be a PITA so knowing the cab is on rubber mounts you can flex a quarter inch from the cab. I will note that when you place your body weight on the front bumper to reach over you might gain a bit more. So be careful on how much you lift then put your body weight up there.

Second up would be Vulcan Performance. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/151-vulcan-performance/

I would have the alternator checked it might have a bad armature winding that is killing the voltage regulators. Basically, in a nutshell, the charging system has been the same for years. Blue wire is +12V key hot then the green wire is variable ground from the voltage regulator. So the blue wire supplied the sense voltage to the regulator and then the case would supply the ground for alternator as well as the alternator. So verify the green wire is not shorting to ground or opening up. Then verify the regulator case has a good clean ground contact.

I remember when the 2nd Gen came out it was sure a worry about oiling before startup that there was electric pump kits that you could toggle on and pump up oil pressure before you even started the truck. As time went on that whole thought of pre-lube went out the window being that trucks were going 1 million miles without the pre-lube pump.

Be careful. When removing stuff you might regret something you cut loose and now need. You might ask @Chris O. for advise on the electric system being he's our CCD network guru. ABS computer is needed for Speed display. PCM is needed for base of the CCD network. ECM is needed for the engine. Cluster is optional. Check on the central timer I think you'll lose wipers. These trucks are not a good one to strip down... 12V is much better choice. All you need is a fuel solenoid signal and starter trigger.

No. Not found one. I know the old Scotty II air filter was the absolute loudest air filter for our trucks. Sad to say no longer manufactured. With a cold air hole drilled in the cowl and that really amped up the noise of the filter.

(Hint) engine hoist works awesome.

Ehhh? Say what sonny?

That's what mine sounds like going over every grade. Spools up to about 10-12 PSI and whistles the whole way up a hill. Drop over the backside and goes quiet. Like this morning I'm taking the Cummins and going to McCall, ID. I'll have to climb Goose Creek grade which is a 7% grade winding. I'll see if I can capture a bit of video of the turbo spooling. Then on the flat ground capture a bit more video.

Never going to happen. BHAF is way better than stock airbox. This is one reason I dumped the stock air box long ago. The turbo heat will deform the plastic over time and the clamping force on the filter will get weak. Then you will start seeing dust trails on the lid. I highly suggest against the stock air box and suggest you keep the BHAF. If you want to cut the turbo noise down, turn the timing up the boost will fall near zero at highway speed. No noise at all. Remember the amount of drive time I put in. I can tell you 20-21* of timing will make the turbo near silent. remember I'm an HX35/40 hybrid (60/6012) with no way to install a silencer ring. No way to silence that turbo other than timing.