Mopar1973Man

From my past experience... I did the stock headlights plus four 100w aircraft landing lights. This worked for a while till the aircraft landing lights gone up in price and the lifespan went down to about 6 to 9 month and your buying all 4 bulbs again. So at $22 a bulb that $88 bucks a set or $176 worth per year. Then I did the sport headlights with the relay mod. That didn't last a year. The light pattern sucked bad. Even with the Aircraft lights backing them up it still sucked. The pattern wasn't where it needed to be. The secondary bulbs basically where a thin vertical band of light. Didn't add much to the high at all. The main bulb was OK but the pattern was scattered badly. Then I upgraded to the Morimoto's. During the time of the ordering, I talk to the gent at Retro Shop and ask him the differences between bulbs, lens, etc. When I had mine done I had the upgraded D2S lens used. Now those put out serious light. I'm at least 20 foot out from the edges of the highway so the ditch line is lit up good on both sides. On high beam the beam is capable of reaching 50 feet tall in the distance. The Morimoto has an absolute cut off shutter so you are not blinding oncoming traffic. Still at this point I had the aircraft lights... Finally started losing bulbs on the driving lights. Instead of dropping another $88 buck for 6 months of light I jump to the PIAA LED driving lights. Now, these things are bad . They are actually brighter than the Morimoto HID's. The light is so bright on a snow-covered road you need to turn them off. The wicked part is they are just a mere 18w load... Tiny compared to even stock 55w halogens. Might be a lot of money but... No longer am I shelling out dollars trying to fix these weak headlights with another mod or weak idea. If I totaled up all the money spent on aircraft landing bulbs, sport headlights, the custom-made relay mod, etc. I could have paid off the whole thing if I did it first thing. Yeah, I could of saved some money on shipping standard freight and if I wimped out and had the H! mini lens used. Then I would have been down to about $800.

Finally it has been done. Fresh rubber in 245/75 R16. Ill admit the trucks much better and steering is lighter with 245 compared to the 235s. Running the Hankook ATm again being I'm getting 60 k to 65k from a set. I'm ready for winter time bring it on.

I would talk to @Dynamic he's our site transmission guru. I'm going to bet there is a torque converter issue.

No. There isn't but it would be nice to have on there... Give me a break in working from the front seat of the truck.

You mean a drain plug in the steering gear box. That would drain every bit of fluid quickly.

Between the Morimoto D2S and the PIAA 530 LED's you're looking at $1,000 in lighting... The Morimoto went up in price with the D2S lens versus the H1 Mini's that most use. Then 2 day freight... https://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO

Looks like a normal light to me... Yeah spendy... But mine where a package deal everything assembled just install. I upgraded to the Morimoto D2S lens.

Still remember even with the filter you still need to change the fluid every 30k miles. Then while you're there might as well change the filter. I've got to ask what did you pay for the filter?

...or some of us went to 35w HID headlights. Then 18w watt LED driving lights.

Known problem mine is the same way. I'm also running expensive ISSPro EV2 boost gauge.

Suction lines will never leak outwards or drip they will constantly suck air in allowing fuel to return to the tank causing loss of prime. In other words if air is introduced the injectors will not fire. Air is compressible.

I'm getting ready to send my OEM stock injectors in and get new nozzles and popped on the high side 310 to 315 bar. Closing in on 100k miles on these 7 x0.0085 injectors.

Synthetic oil are not required. Most of the big milestone guys are strictly petroleum oils. I suggest you get the oil pressure tested.

Finally, I'll be looking into replacing the power steering pump. Not that it quit pumping. The reservoir is leaking. The seal between the pump body and reservoir can is weeping fluid out and leaving signs of power steering fluid on the floor after a night.

All I can say is call and ask.

Standard greasable NAPA U-Joint (SKF)

Truth...

Curious what ratio are you running?

@Dieselfuture I'm the same way I normally have my Maglite LED flashlight on my right side of my belt. It's part of my daily dress code. I carry a flashlight in the door pocket of my truck. So I'm typically well covered for light. I like the LED idea because now your hands are free and the light is provided.

Done...

Finally got a hold of @War Eagle and we found the article for the lighting...

Yes. That is an option just don't get carried away with water pressure. Then pull the tubing off the pump bottom to drain the reservoir. If you're in a hurry you could turn the key on push the wash button till its empty.

Might be easier to just replace the entire exhaust with a new kit. Unknown if you can get the right tail section for length and everything without seeing the existing system and what you've got.

LMC truck is correct. There is actually two versions of that seal really. The one you seal where its just a foam rubber seal and then there is a second version that has a conceal flap that hangs down to conceal the wiring along the cowl.

Washer reservoir is a PITA to pull. There is two dimples of plastic that you have to use 2 flat blade screwdrivers to get released then you can slide it up off the fan shroud. Then you can clean out your bottle and fix any issues you might have.