Mopar1973Man

MacroDroid... Look it up on Google Play. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.arlosoft.macrodroid&hl=en_US It might help you solve that problem.

In Idaho... Yes. Just make sure to club that sucker one more time before loading it up in the back seat.

Again pull the Edge juice off you might find a different answer. It's been known to cause issues if the boost fooler shorts out. First ditch the Edge Juice clear your codes again then see if the codes return if not the Edge Juice is damaged.

It suppose to dump out rear of the passenger side rear tire.

For the testing purposes disconnect the Edge Juice completely. This way we can rule out the Edge Juice causing the issue or not.

Heck I'll one up you then... I Armor-All'ed my dash, vacuum the carpet, cleaned the glass, and degreased the engine and transmission. I should be good for another +1 MPG. Eh?

Back in the day everything was a canned tune. Edge Comp was the best bang for the buck without all the Edge Juice toys. Color touch screen, same canned tunes, and few extra defueling toys added. Then Once DAP bought Quadzilla and Spencer got it going the whole crowd jumped ship because final no longer stuck to canned tunes. Now you could upgrade to bigger injectors and have a smoke free truck without much effort.

He's starting the downhill slide... Modification bug bit him...

The other trick I know is to use the newer single beam wiper blades. I typically replace wiper blade twice a year in the spring and in the fall. I've used both Bosch and RainX brand wipers. The single beam design tend to get equal pressure across the entire length of wiper blade. I'm pretty sure stock was 19" wiper blades. Most might list them as 20" wiper blade which is a nice upgrade too.

I would most likely change that up just slightly. I would use an SPDT switch. Compressor lead to the center contact, ground on one outer and then the other outer would have the HVAC dash switch lead. So in one position is factory mode (operates like it was designed) then the flip of the switch compressor is forced on regardless. Then if you do a center off styled switch then you would have forced off position as well. One toggle switch with so many capabilities.

Being your 100k miles ahead of me you might take the time and check them. Just more or less just push and pull the links to see if they move or have slack.

24V injector... CR Injector...

RV275 injectors are basically a +40HP injector which was stock injector size for the ISB Cummins powered RV's. It's a minor upgrade doesn't require much for supporting mods. This would be one of those nice cheap upgrade mods that you wouldn't have to worry much about. Most of us have moved up to +75HP to +125HP because of better fuel and timing management given by the Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner. You can build a fuel map rather quickly and be able to run larger sized injectors without many issues. There are supporting mods required for larger injectors and tuners basically taking care of the weak links like fuel system, transmission, clutch, etc.

Oh come on there has to be at least one photo of the new 4th gen Dodge hitch to the trailer. Didn't happen unless there is a picture.

Wiper arms are easy to remove. Lift the arm up and you'll see a tab at the pivot. Lift this tab away from the pivot which unlocks the head. Now wiggle the head just a little and lift as you go. It will slide right of the splines.

What bad is most of these people I'm talking about I have told them numerous times that injectors are 100k to 150k mile item that needs to be replaced. Then they typically get this blank look like I didn't know that. Then when you show them prices on CR injectors vs 24V injectors then they get pissed off and ask "Why are my injectors so much more?" Then you go on to explain about CR injectors and how they work and then the light pops on. But now its just too late. I'm sure two of these trucks are now parked and either to rot or to be sold cheap.

I know of now 3 common rail owners getting upset and either wanting to sell there truck or just park it and let it rot. All 3 owners of injector failures of one type or another. When they find out the price of injectors they are not willing to pay the price to replace them. Sad to say I'm finding more and more 3rd Gen being parked or sold out here because the cost of injectors just isn't worth it. Like I talked to one gent locally yesterday I warned him a year ago about the grid heater light being on is a warning for excessive fuel return from failing injectors. His truck barely made it back to town and parked it for now. Day before I talked to another gent with common rail with over 300k miles on the injectors and wonders why it running funny. Top it off his transmission is also fried need rebuilt. Got another one south of me I've been trying to get him to replace his injectors before damage occurs but he continues to drive the truck even though it's getting harder to start and the smoke quantity is increasing. I know a majority of these owners are looking back now towards the older generation like 1st and 2nd generation trucks. They still want a good diesel but don't want the high cost of injectors.

I've got a solution that is even better. This stuff makes the water bead up and blow off the glass. I typically find that I leave the wipers off more than actually run them. Even the smallest drops will roll right off the glass. Even in a good downpour most of the water blows off the glass at highway speeds.

Currently on the clock at 354k miles. Yeah, they lasted pretty darn long time.

I don't suggest that. This potentially can lead to overheating. I've actually had that happen this why I will not cover the face of the intercooler or the radiator. I will cover the grill this allows the fan to lock when needed to pull air through the intercooler and the radiator without any concern. Like my current weather starting to dip down to the 30's for the morning but can rise well into the 90's by afternoon. With a grill covers you can actually still drive with 80*F temps without any issues and not have to constantly remove and install the winter front because of fluke warm day. Typically I install my grill covers by October and leave them in all winter till April.

Bit over glorified for brand names really but the ideas are sound. The other thing is the knowledge we have here makes some of the suggestions obsolete. Like Edge Comp vs Quadzilla I would say Quadzilla would be a better tuner. Boost elbows typically come with the tuner. Then there is the one from China that @IBMobile found. Fuel supply that is a wide topic being you have AirDog, FASS and mechanical pumps now. 4" inch exhaust nothing to brag about like I ran 3" for years without any issues with EGT's. Gauges are just a good requirement to have. Injectors another wide topic to discuss depending on what you're after more MPG or Performance. Turbos another wide range of topic depending on the driver purpose of power will dictate what type of turbo to use. Cold Air Intakes another topic that is rather wide. Washable filters as poor as they are but then the claims of making the air colder doesn't seem to always pan out. Being I just found you can make IAT -10*F colder by changing your thermostat. Most of used the BHAF for years without little to no problem. Guys that live up here in the cold north are looking for a bit of warm air for the intake with temperatures down to -30*F. Hot Rod pumps LOL... At least just a hot rod pump on a stock truck produces a mere +21 HP. Most that are in the big power goal go for the P-pump more so. If you wanting big fuel for a VP44 there are the dragon fire pumps. Most can get at least 600 HP from just a plain old SO VP44 pump. Exhaust manifold most here will suggest sticking with the factory manifolds there are no gains really to the 3 piece ones.

The power connection in the trailer plug is the charge lead typically if the RV is hooked up. Even though that lead has a 40 Amp fuse it won't flow any more than the batteries will take. If the batteries need 5 amp that all they will take. The only way to increase this charge rate is to up the voltage the current will rise. Being the charging system is only going to provide 13.5 to 14.5 volts typically I really doubt there will be any serious gains to charge rate with 2/0 cables. Now for a winch and the heavy load and voltage loss in travel of the wire. Yeah, you might need heavier cable but even 2/0 seems to be overkill. Just checking the voltage loss with 2/0 cable at 25 feet with 160 amp load DC is 0.62 volts. From searching the internet they are saying on average 160 amp at full load for a 2,500 pound winch. Even at 2 AWG would only be 1.25 volt loss. Again I don't expect you to be running right to the margin of the winch.

All I use is just plain old engine oil. Still got my factory OEM cables and terminal and never had corrosion issues. I'll never use grease way too messy and attracts too much dirt. Engine oil you can rinse off with power washer but the oil film will continue to protect the terminals. Grease you.'ll end up on your arms and clothing.

WarEagle article was a pair of bar LEDs mounted near the grill so when the hood was opened the under hood switch turn on the power then the LEDs were already pointed at the engine. Would someone be willing to farm out a new article?

@War Eagle did a write up for LED under hood lighting. Sad the pictures are all gone. Photobucket policy change.