Mopar1973Man

Personally I'm not a fan of slotted rotors. I would have the rotors checked for run out. I'm going to guess the rotors are deforming at the slots where there are the thinnest and weakest. Little heat and now the knocking starts. Changing rotors and pads are disturbing the problem to go away for a short time. If it is possible to get standard non slotted rotors I going to bet the problem will be gone.

I'm pretty sure it's a mercury switch.

Well, gang, I've been getting a rear end clank for some time typically as a released the clutch. Then the last trip to Ontario, OR I detected small vibration. I figured its just got to be a U-joint. While I was in Ontario, OR I picked up two U joints since not too long ago I did the post about changing the rearmost u-joint without dropping the driveshaft. Now after replacing the middle and forward u-joint I did find that both u-joints were in a serviceable condition somewhat. I did find the middle u-joint had roller bearing wear marks in the trunion and created just enough slack that I could detect the vibration. Sad but true I still had the clank. Now after checking again, I found the clank. The end links of the rear sway bar are starting to fail. The passenger side end link is actually loose and the driver side is OK but I can sense a bit of looseness on the driver side.

Not really. I would most likely say if the wipers are getting slow most likely the wiper motor is getting worn out.

Possible the sensor ground is shorted to sensor ground? Is there any APPS wiring mods? As for the P0123 code... Possible Causes 5-volt Supply At APPS Shorted To Voltage (Engine Running) APPS 5-volt Supply Circuit Shorted To Voltage APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Voltage (Engine Running) APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Voltage APPS Return Circuit Open APPS Signal Circuit Open From APPS To ECM APPS 5-volt Supply Circuit Open PCM (APPS) Circuit Shorted To Voltage With The Engine Running PCM (APPS) Short To Voltage With Ignition Key On APPS Open Between PCM And ECM Open APPS Circuit Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) Engine Control Module

I've thought about getting my CDL just to have but all the requirements now not worth it for me. Being Fire Dept is exempt from CDL license requirements I can drive anything I wish. I've had good track record with the Fire Dept and still to this day no accidents. I've taken 4,000-gallon water tender places it really shouldn't be. Trust me you can grow a set of teeth in that hind end really fast on a mountain dirt road.

Might want to PM @IBMobile he's got an idea on grid heater control switch without tossing errors and allowed you to control of your grid heater.

Time to replace the APPS sensor. Make sure to get a Timbo's APPS and don't try to adjust the voltage. This could be what you've done with voltage adjustment.

That top adjustment you don't mess with. The up / down adjustment is on the bottom near the bumper. The one in the close up blur is the left to right adjustment.

The problem... 99% of people panic at highway speed and grab the brakes when a tire blows. The proper thing to do is to apply throttle to stabilize the direction before slowing down. Take notice in this video you can clearly see the tire blowout and the driver automatically stomped the breaks and the truck went right into the ditch just like the previous video showed. As he stomped the brakes the new direction was created and the truck went right into the ditch and rolled over killing the driver.

Is exhaust brake sticking shut partially?

As much is it nice to be able to jump on interstate and roll 75 to 85 MPH I think that this sure be revisited by the NTSB and consider dropping these speed limits back down. When you have 80,000-pound truck having a sudden failure on a steer axle there isn't much margin for an 80,000-pound truck and driver to make good choices and keeping people safe. Trust me I understand the feeling of an 80,000-pound truck I drive water tender for my local fire dept. That truck is at its margins for weight as is. Once you get that much weight rolling it takes some time to stop all that moving mass. I don't care how good you think you are of a driver or how good your truck is still the laws of physics kick in and you can only stop so fast. Faster you travel the longer it takes to stops.

Go to a dark street or road. Now cover one headlight with blanket or jacket. Now the screw in the upper corners towards the radiator is left to right. The screw down at the bumper is up and down. Now adjust the headlight on low beam.

That's my worry with 180F thermostat. The EGTs are much lower idling in 35F weather. Engine temp sank to 177F I would be concerned with tar issues on the valves in the dead of winter.

Hmmm.... High idle kit, gauges, Quadzilla power, themometer, etc pass through that boot. Most likely more but forgot what.

Wow that's a mess.

I kind of screwed up tonight. I was thinking about getting fuel for the truck and find out what the MPG on 180*F thermostat would be, then drove right on by the fuel station. Shocking enough I've got enough fuel yet to turn around and return to Ontario, OR. I'm right about needle width below 1/2 tank (18.x gallons used). I was kind of shocked at the IAT temps watching closely for the day. City stop and go it would average +40*F or so over outside. Once I was on the highway making a bit of boost the IAT fell to about +30*F over outside. Coming home once the temperature started to cool towards 70*F it started inching its way into the high +20*F and swinging back to +30 offset. So I'll get fuel tomorrow so I'm not running around on fumes for the weekend. My old 190*F thermostats always produced at least 160*F air from the center vents. I've been doing the standard hand math vs what data feed I get from the Quadzilla.

Basically with the a pillar I did the same as @dripley where the a pillar ran over the top of the factory trim. Sandwich style then the wires dive past the headlight switch. The sensors are on a custom fitting bracket and tubing to the tap point. This makes for easy testing. I really didn't want to drill holes in my trim back in 2005 when I installed my gauges which was DiPricol back in the day. Now ISSPro EV2 now.

Ontario, OR

Just remember the compressor pulley bearing is a sealed bearing. It can fail regardless of compressor usage. In the dead of winter it can get so cold that the compressor will not start. Freon pressures will fall with extreme cold and the lo side switch will prevent it from starting. This is normal.

Good gawd... Could of at least use air brake line.

As for my ISSPro EV2 I've routed through the firewall at the main loom slit the rubber boot and went through to the engine bay. Fuel pressure and boost pressure are at my ABS module. EGT routes along the cowl to the manifold.

35F morning and barely 105F fluid temp. Barely warm to the touch.

So far this morning travelling through New Meadows ID it was mere 35F for morning air temp. The IAT offset was still up there about 45 to 50 degrees. Neat part as I got closer to Weiser and the outside temp rose to 65 then the IAT was sinking fast on offset. I'd find that turbo cool down is much faster. The down side when idling the coolant can drop to 178F and the EGT are in low 200's which in the dead of winter is a bad thing. Idle speed is up nearly a full 10 RPM.

Actually, most the time that I see cracked exhaust parts is from people running way to high of EGT's for way too long. Cooldown only affects the bearing life because of oil coking up on the bearings on the shaft. Like myself, I've never cracked an exhaust manifold yet nor an exhaust housing. I've always kept a watchful eye on my EGT gauge after I found out YEARS ago that its possible to push a "completely stock" ISB Cummins up past 1,400*F towing over a 7% grade.