Mopar1973Man

@JAG1 been bugging me to fix his A/C on his truck.

All my tips are in that thread... Not hard. I was even able to teach @JAG1 how to change his first VP44.

Can't import at all for some reason. Just tried that files are grayed out and do nothing.

Now if I can con you to come over here. Hint hint....

I would say still either air in the fuel issue or a injector with pissy spray popping low.

Dude... That means I've got to rebuild my tunes... Not cool. Oh well.

Only if the temperature is below 70*F. Then it switches off above 70*F. With all my driving back and forth, I can say without a doubt IAT and fuel temp typically are within 5 degrees of each other.

Sad part the water pump is purely a coolant flush issue. If the coolant was flush at a proper time you wouldn't eat the water pump bearing. I'm at nearly 350k miles on the OEM water pump on the Cummins. I've got 172k miles on the V8 water pump. Still to this day all shop I visit they all do the same thing test for freeze point but don't test for pH level. Then when the pH gets corrosive then it eats the bearings and any other metal the coolant touches.

I've done the flash. Nothing has changed no extra gauge. I've even selected the vehicle again. What am I missing?

Being I'm still doing roughly 60k miles a year I'm sure I can.

I've got to get my VirtualBox fired back up again.

High timing should only be used for low cetane / cold weather. I've had to retard quite a bit as the temperatures here have started rising. The IAT temperatures are higher so the fuel ignites easy and so you don't need the timing on a hot day. My problem is my early morning startup might be 48-52*F and IAT to match for several miles. Then it gradually rises over the day then by 11am when I get down in the high desert of Ontario it now getting up to 130*F worth of IAT now I find myself changing the tune and dropping about 1-2 degree total across all the EQ sliders.

Like another thing I'm finding out is that you need to consider the IAT temperature in your tune. Being I've got wild swings in temperature starting as low as 48-52*F IAT as I roll out in the morning through the canyon. Then by the time I'm returning home I could be as high as 125 to 130*F IAT and find myself moving all the bands of timing up and down to keep a sweet spot. Cooler mornings you can run more timing by the heat of the day you need to retard this some. With the smaller tires, the EGT's have been low. Engine load is low too like around 15-19% at 60 MPH on my last trip home. Also going to split up the tunes again.

Nope... Single HX35/40 Hybrid. +75 HP injectors (7x0.0085). A matter of fact I'm splitting my tune out to reach for more. I've been trying to keep all in one tune which is not possible really. Light load requires different timing than WOT or racing. Not to mention I was attempting to build a fuel map one size fit all. Nope doesn't work, some conditions give smoke most others don't smoke.

I've gathered up the tidbit I needed to do my truck. The 5mm bolt that @W-T list is absolutely correct it fits like its meant to. So its just a matter of me cutting the loom open and getting this done.

Remember that pose a safety issue. If the ignition is on and the electric pump is running and you have an accident that pump can potentially fuel a fire because there is no shutdown signal like the ECM does. The ECM watches the tach signal soon as it drops (accident) then the lift pump is turned off for safety.

I just made a run at 80 MPH down a short blast of the interstate. 245's on the rear yet. In 5th gear at 80 MPH it's turning 2,400 RPM. not bad yet you can safely blow down the interstate at 70 MPH and still but reasonable like 2200 RPM (IIRC). I know previously 70 MPH was a touch over 2,100 RPM. @dripley Basically the RPM difference if you drive 5 MPH faster that is what you new RPM will be. So if you want to see 70 MPH on 245's drive 75 MPH that is your RPM at 70 MPH on 245's.

@IBMobile has a killer converter lock up controller (mystery switch).

I'll say that truck held up good for hitting a moose and then rolling. I'm glad both of you are ok as well. One of the few reasons I've not given up on my truck for an economy car.

I'm happy with the fact the 65 MPH RPM is 1960 on the tach. Now that I've taught myself to leave the transmission in high gear I find that majority of my travel now I can do in top gear empty. I plan on hauling my RV back on Thursday so I'll get a good test run on that.

Lets say. I'm already planning on running 245s on the Cummins then 215s on the 1/2 ton. Really like the performance. Just about mustered 21 MPG on the last tank. Plan on towing the RV home on Thursday. So ill get some tow experience.

Typically no because even if the APPS gets out of range it will throw a P0122 or P0123 code and dead pedal completely. This can be check by monitoring the TPS on a live data OBDII tool. Limited pedal is a different creature. Basically, you have some throttle but you never are able to exceed a level of engine load. For example WOT (100% TPS) only produces 60% engine load tops. Where dead pedal produces 0% engine load during the event. (TPS either 0% or 100%) Both values can be monitored at the same time engine load and TPS values.

The one I typically talk to is Peter at South Bend.

Sometimes it just a matter of thousands of an inch or even tenths of an inch to making parts fit right. I agree with the guys ask Southbend why I'm sure they will tell you.