Mopar1973Man

I'd never use any kind of quick connector or 3/8" lines. I would upgrade to full 1/2" lines from the tank to the VP44 using Parker Push Lock fittings.

Like my AirDog 150 after 12 years of service and still singing away under the truck. Zero down time. Close to 200k miles on that pump. It's so old now the AirDog badge fell off. It would take me about the same amount of time with a 3/8 wrench and four bolts.

To me it looks like a failing ECM. APPS stay up where its suppose to but the engine load is dropping out so that is more ECM problem that APPS problem. Back to AC noise possible cause.

This is why I document all return with photos and serial number off the pump BEFORE sending back. I've been known to mark pumps with my own mark then when it comes time to identify the pump I can pull my secret out too. Too many times I've seen people get robbed by warranty claims that been void because of contaminated fuel claims.

Could be a few things... Failed boost fooler. Bad connection on the MAP sensor. Bad MAP sensor.

First off I'm confused why is the fuel pump wired to the ignition fuse in the cab? It should be hooked up to the ECM and a control relay. The relay should be hooked up to battery power typically I hook it up to the PDC +12V stud. During cranking the ECM will command 50% duty cycle which will pulse the power on and off and get the pump to run about 7-12 PSI during cranking. Typically when you turn the key on the first second it will pulse the pump and usually get a pressure spike before you even hit the key to start. You might want to check with another gauge to verify your gauge is showing correctly. The only reason there would be longer starts and no pressure is a loss of prime. You may be seeing fuel in the filler neck but there could be an air bubble trapped in the rest of the system.

That good news to see you are getting that problem fixed. Sorry, you've had to run into that problem with the ECM.

Still baffled by the lack of boost. Drive pressure leaks (crack manifold or blown exhaust gaskets) Wastegate malfunction (wastegate rusted/stuck open) Boost leaks... Another dumb question? Do you have an exhaust brake? Is it stuck closed? This could produce seriously high EGT's and lack of boost pressure. The fact there is that much EGT's you've got the fuel but are you getting the drive pressure to the turbine to spin the compressor. I've seen several photos floating around the Internet of turbos with broken shafts. Damaged turbine wheel or damaged compressor wheels. Look for wheel damage. Chipped fins, rub marks where it's made contact. Wastegate seen here. It might be worth pulling that turbo to look at both sides. So you can inspect the wastegate and the turbine wheel.

I've got to ask is this a stock turbo?

True. Small boost leaks most likely will not affect the maximum boost. Larger ones like a single manifold bolt missing or a chunk of intake gasket missing will leak pretty good. Another mistake is removing stock filter can and reusing the old bolts which are too long and the manifold will leak.

Still missing my question. If I have my max set for 25* I noticed it will cancel the cruise timing if timing rises above 25*. That's fine. Now if the performance timing rises above 25* will it cap out or will it continue with what is programmed? Again what does the MAX timing slider control? What does it cap out?

This post is focused more so towards @Me78569 ... I need to find an answer to a value here. In the timing EQ sliders the max timing value. I've found out you can limit your reach of the cruise timing with this value. Now does it limit the reach of the performance timing too? I need to know the reach of this value and what it caps out.

I've got the Vulcan Performance Silicone boots and they fit fine.

After watching this part done by @Dynamic it's not to bad doing the valve body. Just time and standard tools.

Might talk to @Dynamic and see what he has to offer as well for a kit.

I'm allowed a break after driving from New Meadows, ID to Ontario, OR then back over to Parma, ID. Then on top of it I've got 4 hours to wait now so might as well go where there is air conditioning and somewhere comfortable to be for 4 hours. Now if I would of bought my laptop I could have been working on the website more but I didn't. So I got the case of the lazies and took a nap. @MnTom I would have to agree with @JAG1 I think a replacement would be better because of the flooring issues. Like that was one of the thing I was taught during the purchase of my Jayco. Since I'm fairly heavy and big I could walk in an RV and feel if the floor was strong or not. Most of the newer units felt weak in the flooring like it was flexing excessively. Like my Jayco has a double square tube frame and 1/2 plywood floor which does make for a heavier unit but no flooring problems or flex.

Yeah, I know but I've not found what I'm looking for... I find the little round 2 amp USB ports all day long in Amazon.

I bought someone's old camper and love it. Already broke in and no warranty issues to deal with.

Got back to my other home after the long weekend. Come to find that the trailer was knocked off it tongue blocks. Looking more found the passenger side wheel chock was knocked out. When it fell off the tongue blocks it landed on the driver side stabilizer jack in the front and bent the top mount. Talking to the land owner and he said the gust was upwards of 50 to 60 MPH. He figured as long as the trailer was still standing was a good thing. I was more worried about the fridge but it was still cold and freezer was still frozen. So here I sit and enjoy my A/C in the RV. No harm done!

I doubt ill ever buy a new RV for the same reasons here. My Dad bought the 1976 Dodge Jamboree Class C motor home brand new. I had a bag that was full of all the work orders go back and forth to the dealer with issues. My current Jayco I bought used 10 years old and owned it now for 8 years. Minor issues but still towing it down the highway.

Actually a crap ton of Oxidizer.

Well as for removal there is a air hammer bit that is like cup socket that fit over the bolt head. Basically loosen the bolts, use you air hammer to drive the bearing out. Another way is to use a steel rod. Take one person to turn the steering wheel and a second person to hold the rod. Not very safe but can be done. As for the hub I think you have to drive the studs out to get the rotor off.

Might ask @Dynamic about the shutter its possibly transmission. Again a educated direction.

Possible ECM. There is a state called limited pedal. What you'll see is the TPS is still commanding fuel but the ECM commanding the VP44 even less. You can see this in engine load. Engine load is equal to commanded fuel by the ECM. So do the log again and add engine load with TPS so you can see both.

Well I can tell you it's not the APPS sensor if it climbs smoothly. Even the graph you post doesn't drop to zero. For there to be lack off power you need to drop to zero.