Mopar1973Man

Ill bet money on the sensor.

Possible pilot bearing if the rest are fine.

That's because of the extra rotational mass of the 2 friction disks to slow down. One of the few reasons I won't do a dual disc.

Look at it this way. The Stock ECM tune can use the full range of the VP44 timing already. It's just when does it occur. All we are doing is dictating when and where the timing occurs. So the VP44 is capable of 30 degrees of timing and stock can touchh the 30 degrees but I'm going to assume its way up the RPM range. I'm more focused on the timing where I do the most driving, So the 1,500 and 2,000 RPM band is where I spend the most time. So those two ranges are the most important to me. Now as for the 2,500 and 3,000 I look at those for passing power but I might use those ranges only 1% of the time. Give you a feel. (7 x 0.0085) Injectors... No studs, HX35/40 hybrid 60/60/12... 18, 21, 24, 27, 27 (Timing max) Max load offset 3* Low PSI Timing reduct 5* Timing reduct Scaling 50% Light Throttle Timing Adv 3* Light Throttle Load 20%

Back when I had both the 1973 Dodge Charger under the tree I stuck mothballs in the Dodge Charger the mice would pack them around the car. So instead of being in the cup where I had mothballs in I'd find them all over the car then. I tried the dryer sheet idea too and watch how mice used the sheets for bedding. Even in the RV I tried again. Mice walked right past the mothballs wouldn't phase them. Drier sheets again they dragged them off and made nest out of them. Two things I found that keeps mice out is noise and lack of entry. Even mice need to have sleep so if there constant loud, obnoxious noise all the time they will not build home there. The other then is not to have shelter or warmth. Lot of ranchers up here leave the hood open then vents the heat out quickly and doesn't provide shelter for the mice.

Thank you. Information confirmed.

Ok another way to look at it. Set the Quadzilla for Level 0 and monitor your timing. Now build a timing setup which is plus 1 or plus 2 over stock. Not exactly a good way to look it being stock has a nasty retard hole in the middle of the map. I'd rather base it off engine load and EGT then you know you got efficiency on you side.

Not the way to look at it. It more what do you want for a target timing value during cruise? This should be based more on engine load and EGTs. As you get closer to optimal timing the EGT and engine load will fall. The amount to give is more on the experiment and see side.

Exactly. More defuel you have in you cruise realm the more TPS is required creating extra pull on TV cable which is holding gears longer.

I'm going to say clutch/transmission install issues. If the pilot bearing is dragging on the input shaft it could create this issue. I've had it myself after replacing my clutch and being careful about the alignment of the transmission I've never had the issue again. Being the clutch is pushed in and the input is still spinning with the crank if the bearing is binding up then shift quality is an issue.

Starter most likely. I've seen where one brush fails and the starter is now on half power and struggles to twist. Contacts typically just don't deliver power yeah it does happen that it could cause poor cranking but rare. Another is cables I've seen some battery cable that look like junk and people do weird things to gain a better connection.

High you go up with the main timing values the more this can go down because engine load will be reduced. Like I'm at 20% light throttle load limit and cruise at 65 MPH at about 15-17%. Holding this number too high will cause efficiency problems. This is all based on the max timing. I've been as high as 7* here. Now which base timing being pulled up this has to go down. 18, 21, 24, 27 so now add +3 to that. 21, 24, 27, 30 is my cruise timing. Since my max is 27 the cruise timing ends shortly after 2k on the tach and forced back to performance timing values. 27* is about all mine can do with bucking.

For daily driven truck there is no real reason for extending the RPM range. I would not suggest extending the range unless you have the supporting mods to handle the RPM.

United States Forest Circus... I've got no love for them and they are not "fire fighters". They are "Fire Managers" in other words they are not in the business of putting the fire out but allowing the fire to burn and manage where it burns at. After working with US Forest Circus for over 12 years and fighting fires. I watch how these clowns play with back fires and poor management to create bad fire seasons.

Yes. You can... I've got mine set for 30% so it takes 30% TPS or more to trigger wiretap. That allows for wider range of CANBus only fuel without tripping the wiretap. This depends on how much defuel is in your CANBus fueling. So if you in the throttle deeper its going to pull the TV cable more. You might have to add fuel to change the shift points. Might have to add in some retarding. Add another degree to the Max Load Timing Offset. Might be. Now what axle gears are you running and what size tires? This does matter. Typically starting your own thread get better support. Donation is not required, but suggested.

Delayed this repair other things have priority.

I can say without a doubt mothballs do not work. Dryer sheets don't work

This is because on the automatic transmission the cruise control still has to pull the TV cable so the vacuum method is required. On the manuals there is no other devices needing TPS movement. This why manual transmissions are fly by wire.

Where that wave washer/spring is mine had rusted into pieces. Seriously though. After all the years and 1/4 million miles. I'm not complaining one bit nor am I worried about exact hour specification of the motor and did it reach it or not. The mere fact it ran for 12 years and that mileage is awesome. I hate to say it but the AirDog pump motor lasted longer than the blower motor in the dash that is used even less.

Typically I keep my trucks in the garage. Then the main house here has an ultrasonic box point in the direction of the truck. Animals need a place to sleep at night but if there is constant noise they move on. The ultrasonic box I've got has quiet mode which is true ultrasonic and the noise mode that even you can hear which can be pretty loud. Typically leave them on ultrasonic. If I find signs then I step up to the low volume mix. Still seeing signs I go for the loud setting. Typically they move on. I hate using traps because you're baiting others animals into the bait. Poison works again baiting into the area again. Old school pellet bait seems to be gone which I'm happy for. Those tend to be packed off by pack rats and not eaten until way later. Do not work very fast. The new bait station is typically built for mice and larger rats can't enter the bait station. I like the block style stuff where you can tie wire the block under the hood for those parking outside.

Keep an eye on it. She might just fail again. It could be a loose wire or bad connection. I would at least invest in the crank sensor.

That's what we are here for to discuss these things and dispel myth and confusion.

7 x 0.007 I think is closer. Stock is 7 x 0.0063 if I remember the size correctly. 7x 0.0085 is +75 HP injector.

I went through 3 of Carter Lift pumps in 9 months at $200 a pop. I spent the $520 on the AirDog 150 12 years ago and now it finally wore the pump motor out after 12 years (250k miles). New pump motor on the way. Under warranty!

If there is no tach signal the ECM will not turn on the VP44.