Mopar1973Man

Like myself, I'm using @Chris O. CCD Network tool to set my rev/mile on the ABS computer. Basically, anyone with a Smarty S-03 or Smarty UDC should be able to use this to correct for tire size difference. It would be nice to have the odometer feature added as a pass-thru at this point and be able to calculate AVG MPG.

Hmmm... Dang... Bluetooth issues. So back to the MPG stuff then. Is there any way to add an odometer display (trip mileage) then divide the mileage by the gallons used? Then we would have MPG AVG for the display?

Might be because he's running oversized tires (285's) and the ABS computer has never been updated with the proper rev/mile so the system could work as its designed.

Why send it in? You can update it on your PC. You should be able to download the flash update and update the Quadzilla on your PC.

I'll give that a try... Another one of those hidden secrets like the timing trick with everything shut off. @Quadzilla Power since I've got your attention this morning why is it that you create a new custom tune the values are all very wild and unusable? Why not at least have a default tune load up or something of usable value.

This is why fuel log book is handy for spotting these issues.

There is a specified torque for all those bolts in the FSM. Yeah in stock design these numbers are fine. Now aftermarket stuff it might change some. Check with your part supplier if there is changes in torque values. I tend to favor the torque wrench on assembly because it gets everything evenly tight less issues of things coming apart in high stress applications.

@cajflynn is my inspiration on the 2nd Gen. After watching him cross 1 million miles I know anyone can do it. Just sad to see 3rd gens 500k lifespan. Ive actually heard lower like 300k miles. Then the expense of replacing injectors too.

Good question I can't remember if I've ever seen the ABS sensors on the 2nd Gen kits...

You can leave it empty. No problem.

Funny... After talking with @W-T about it. Only the 2nd Gens have an alternator fuse. 1st Gen and 3rd Gen don't have an alternator fuse. The only thing I was thinking of is a fool hooking up jumper cables to the truck backwards. It would blow the diodes out of the alternator.

Yeah but I don't have the picture anymore. I'm trying to think what picture it was and where I got it from.

@cajflynn looks like you need to update your signature and tell us some stories about your current truck and how you keep it going. Mighty fine looking 4th gen truck... Time to share your secrets on the 4th gen.

Ummm... I've got no idea what you are doing... None of the tune is dealt with on a PC period. All on the mobile device. To import a tune from the website is easy. Just use your mobile device. Surf to the Download section here and download the tune you wish to run. Now start the iQuad app. Now click on the downloaded file it will import to the iQuad App. Now give it a name that you want. After that you need to shutdown and restart the app it will display the tune after that.

Pull up from the bottom. This will display all the gauge. Long tap on a gauge and then drag it up to the position you want that gauge in. Change layout swipe to the left or right to change gauge layout.

Holy Cow... The million mile man visits the site for the first time in years! Yeah, I called you out as a tag...

Basically the answer to all of it...

I became my own warranty station back in 2004 (51k miles) when I gave Dodge Dealer Tech the middle finger and refused to take the in-tank lift pump. Since then I've studied and made proper replacements to extend the life span of the truck. Which I would say I've done quite well. That's my big focus everything I do is to extended the lifespan of the truck. Cool factor is meaningless to me... Yeah I've got access to B5 over in Ontario, OR but heading for $3.50 a gallon is getting steep. I'm still capable of getting petroleum for $3.299 in Idaho. It's about that time to break out the twins and the Big Tex go fire up the screaming beavers... Firewood pile is getting well rather small... Seriously. Back on topic. It about being able to deal with the weak links and upgrade properly. There is a lot of hype for some upgrades and mods which typically have no value for daily drivers. Like cold air intakes, updated intake horn, 4 or 5 inch exhaust. These mods for stock to mildly upgrade HP these don't have any effect on power or efficiency. I'm strictly talking daily driving no towing here. Now everything beyond daily driving changes the requirements and what upgrades to do. This is why the signature line is handy for us to look at and make a proper suggestion based on what you plan on doing and typically task for the truck. Like currently I'm a majority highway runner now, low amount of towing but it will occur. Now there is other members here that have different goals and purpose for their trucks. Like some have welding equipment on the back adding weight. Some tow on a daily bases like @cajflynn did turning 1.3 million miles on a 2nd Gen truck. Still, it comes back to getting an understanding of the purpose of the truck and modifying to keep the wear of parts down.

Oh... I can't resist... Dripley even got a built-in trough for routing the chicken grease to the fuel tank. Biodiesel anyone?

This was a simple mod for me and cost less than the stock tires but watch this... 35 to 37 inch tires. Now the list of upgrades that you should do to handle the larger tires. Steering box brace to keep the stress off the output shaft from the larger tires. Heavy duty T steering to upgrade from the factory Y steering. Adjustable track bar if not upgrade to 3rd gen style track bar that is adjustable. Long control arms to correct the geometry of the front axle after the lift /leveling kit to fit the tires. Upgraded shocks and steering dampener help prevent death wobble common with most oversized tires. Upgraded steering gear box (Blue Top or Redhead in slow ratio to reduce stress on the steering box) 3rd Gen brakes to stop all that rotational mass of the larger tires. Axle gear change to get the final ratio corrected for oversized tires. (Final gear ratio 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground) Upgrade the transmission (Automatics) to hold up to the added stress that oversized tires produce on the transmission. Upgraded clutch (manual) same here might consider a dual disc to hold the torque demands. So I made one change from 265/75 R16 to 235/85 R16 dropped the aluminum wheels 16x8 for factory 16x7 steel wheels and tires cost me much less but all the front suspension lasted MUCH longer. 185k OEM ball joints 340k OEM tie rod ends 150k miles OEM track bar, 180k miles on NAPA track bar 340k Steering gear box. Upgrade to Blue Top because of rust issues. 180k OEM brakes 300k Rear caliper (rust issues) Still running... 16 years later and 341k miles on the clock. OEM Rotors OEM Power Steering pump OEM front Calipers Never had a death wobble issue. Just food to think on...

Now here is a video that is rather graphic of both a Red Vehicle and also being a Ford.

Too bad you not going to hang around long I could get so much done with 2 bodies on my truck.

2 cycle oil in the fuel for Injection pump life. 235/85 R16 tires for the front suspension life. Exhaust brake for brake life. Ground mod for the electrical and electronics performance. AirDog / FASS for injection pump life. ISSPro Gauges for warning protection.

We can do that... Start the thread and I'm sure everyone will jump in.

Your welcome...