Mopar1973Man

Shudder is either wrong fluid used or the clutch is plain worn out. Lockup cycling in and out at 40-50 MPH range typically is an alternator AC noise issue.

That being said, what pop pressure range would you suggest for my 7 x 0.0085 +75 HP injectors? This spring when I can swap over to the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 I want to jump into this higher pop pressure I'm betting it will also improve economy as well with better atomization.

No. The truck will start and run without a TPS just no throttle control. Yes. This is normal. You could just disconnect the grid heater and the fuel heater to prove other wise. I doubt it it would typically it will pull hard on the alternator but once you cross 20 MPH it should shut it off. Fuel heater is automatic and self controlled. Do me a favor read the error codes this one behaves like an ECM going south. Also, have the alternator tested for excessive AC noise. Are you see delay in the WTS light to come on? Do you have a P0606 code? With the TPS unplugged it should just start and idle.

Tucked under is way better. Trust me...

It does happen... I've seen a few here that have had both hi/lo beam on a single bulb burn out at the same time.

This is where the battle begins. You'd have to get back to 01 electronics because the true tone wheel is on the crank but you don't have it. The tone wheel for the destroke might not be the right frequency of tone wheel or like you figuring not the right index for the place. This why this article was created above because mixing early and late turn into a HUGE problem every single time between hardware and computer with software. Typically 99.9% are resolve by install the correct year of engine. Converting to the 01 or 02 series is much easier than trying to convert back to 99 because of the dual tone wheel (Cam and crank sensor) where the 01 and 02 only have a cam sensor (which is actually a crank sensor).

I've had my previous 1972 Dodge Power wagon do the same thing. The parking brake was worn so at some point it popped and rolled to the end the slope and rest up against the neighbor's fence. I started carrying blocks of wood and chunks of firewood for the truck.

Head light ground is in the driver side kick panel. Most likely either the headlight fuse is blown or the bulb is bad. Being that the headlight switch turns the ground off and on. Then the dimmer switch switches the ground for hi and lo beams.

Would of been a lot easier to just change the cam and gear case and keep the cam sensor.

I guess at this point its GM fault...

It sucks being I'm so used to leaving the engine in neutral and the Quadzilla is still cooling the turbo when I walk away. So now I've got to hold it with the brake shut it off with the key. Then tap the throttle to shut down the engine. Then place it in 1st gear and lock up. Typically yes, but they still can roll with a trailer attached.

This kind of goes along with @W-T was saying... http://www.mechman.com/hairpin-stators-1/

Posted the pictures sorry for the delay...

Denso is simple to rebuild with basic hand tools where the Bosch has all the diodes soldered in place. Denso diode pack. Easy bolt on part. Brushes and everything else is easy to replace. Something like this?

Bomb Bug strikes again...

Sorry, for the old links just the site has been upgraded several times so the URL's tend to go bad. But all the information is still here. We continue to grow and add more.

Site has changed a bunch since then... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/

Not a problem. I've got you configured now so if anyone posts on the "Diesel Auto Power Forum" it should send you a email notifying you of the new post. Trying to make communication easy as possible for you. Same to DAP and you as well Jacob!

Now posted up my Daily tune.

Like myself, I use Libre Office on Ubuntu Linux to produce the graphs.

@W-T I've converted your post into an article to keep for all to see thank you for the wonderful explanation of the alternator function.

I'm sure there is tons of drop light users and been burnt by the hot light bulb or dropped it and blown the light bulb out. Well grab your old drop light and buy a 100w LED light bulb. I'll tell you the bulb is super bright being LED it doesn't get hot enough to burn you. If you drop it won't blow the bulb out. I picked up 20-foot drop light and the 100w LED bulb and man I love this light way better than the expensive solutions, simple and cheap.

I'll tell you my opinion that this very scary times. Where cars are driven by computers and we all know how much computers can screw up stuff when they fail. We see that now with our own trucks even the simple electronics we've got. I don't like the idea of letting a computer make the choices of how to drive. I've been in several close calls in just this last year that only human nature and experience would keep you from harm. Something like this would of not been able to make those split-second choices and prevented an accident. I know Google has been working on their version of the driverless car as well.

With minus temperatures outside and IAT down to about 40-50*F will product idling timing as high as 16*.

Personally, if you looking for the optimal connection soldering the wires together is the best connection vs crimp connectors. I avoid crimp butt connectors being they are typically the weak point of a wiring issue. I'd rather have 1 continuous wire or solder and shrink tube the wire together. I've seen all kinds of crimp connectors with shrink tubing etc. Solder or welding the wire together will always be best.