Mopar1973Man

I cheated. I left the truck on the ground with the steering wheel straight. So now when I removed all the parts from the steering the tires are still pointed straight forward and the steering wheel is straight too. Now Build the new tie rod setup and when you are doing your adjustment collars run them in till you feel the dirt bottom. This will get you close. Now start with the drag link hang it in the pitman arm and lightly thread the nut on. Now the passenger side tie rod same thing lightly tighten the nut. Then do the last the driver side tie rod. It went back together like it was designed for the placement. Once everything is in place you basically tighten everything up with two wrenches. I've still got to measure the toe amount but I know its really close at this point. The only thing I had to do is adjust the steering wheel center which I've got it close. Just a wee bit to the left yet. As for removal. Since it so cold out here I beat that pickle fork in nice and tight and then using a bit of propane torch heat heating the outer knuckles strike the pickle fork one more time and POP out it comes every time. So I can say 335k miles on the OEM tie rods ( Y steering ) works just fine as long as your not using oversized tires!

I would like to report... The newest version of the iQuad App still has the hang problem. If you shut down during the loading of the profile then the app hangs and so does the module. You have to shut down both the engine and the iQuad app and restart both to get it working again.

Could be the outside sensor wiring or sensor is bad.

More Coffee needed... Sorry... NAPA - Standard line. Premium was well over 300 bucks I can't afford it.

@leety you need some cover for your beast it's not supposed to be standing outside.

I wonder what the letter are for the full meal deal with heated seats, power seats, overhead computer etc. My truck is a SLT but missing all the "Luxury trim".

That Crank Sensor (Tach signal) it comes from the ECM. How?

There isn't much to the alternator system. Blue wire should have +12V with the key on. Green wire will vary ground signal to control charging rate. Then a fuse for the alternator.

Make sure to hang around here and ask plenty of question we'll get you all sorted out.

Typically across the entire face of the tire. This is only the inside shoulder of the front axles. Hankook DynaPro ATm - This is my second set and I got over 60k on my first set. This set I'm at 30k miles and still going strong. Measure off the wheels not the tires.

A few have gone this way but it does produce a mess. More wiring under the hood and more wiring into the cab. Personally, I want to solve the puzzle and have everything back the way it was when I bought the truck in 2002 everything work correctly and there weren't any wiring hacks to make things work.

ECM controls the 2 positives. Then the other two are just ground in the PDC. Problem remove any trigger wires the ECM will see it and trip P0380 or P0382 and CEL. This is why I just unhook the BATT power lead and forget it. ECM is happy and no error codes and no CEL.

I gave up at 335k miles. I was notcing more cupping of the shoulders of the tires from a possible toe issue (slack in the tie rod ends). I got me the part tonight and tomorrow I'll be installing fresh steering parts under the front of the truck. Funny part is it still steers tight and straight its the cupping of the shoulders of the tires that's bugging me. 335k miles I'm sure there is a bit a slack in the tie rod ends and could be toeing in on itself creating the issue on the tires.

Duh. Wasn't pay attention.

No actually the ECM it cranked up to 19-21* BTDC then the Edge Comp is adding more timing top. It gets rather high timing the lower the IAT gets. Quadzilla is an awesome tool for watching the ECM output of timing numbers. So I can turn off the Quadzilla and still watch the ECM timing value. As for that question YES both way. Because the 6 cylinder is going to be lower but you doubled the time. 3 cylinder puts more load on the engine and burns more fuel but you halved the time. I just went out and started my truck cold and I was seeing 20.76* worth of timing at 45*F IAT. Now figure the Edge Comp is stacking another 2-3 degrees on top of that.

Currently I've got my grid heaters disconnected. I've got the truck plugged in just about one hour before starting. No issues. I'm starting out at +9*F this morning but heading into minus weather in New Meadows, ID. In about 50 minutes I'm gone...

Other than it waste a lot of fuel. 3 CYL can flow upwards of 5-8 GPH. About the same amount of fuel as driving up a 7% grade but your not moving. No Edge Comp does not have a cold engine feature. Edge Juice does have a cold engine feature. That one of the few thing I didn't like about the Edge Comp it cranked up timing even harder in the dead cold and on a cold engine. Really harsh on the engine.

Exactly what I did.

You need to meet @W-T you both are a two peas in a pod. He's also another that is critical about the grounds he's also got a long post going on how he's reworking the master ground for the PCM, ECM and VP44.

Here is where my view comes from... This is common to all electronic vehicles just every one of them exhibits the signs differently. Also, remember ground doesn't mean AC noise cancelled. You can produce AC waveforms on a negative side or ground as well.

That is one problem down... Now for the overhead computer...

I would contact http://www.bluetopsteeringgears.com/ and get a hold of them I'm sure they can set you up with the parts in the steering box. As for assembly and such I don't have a video but I've done plenty of them in the past from 70's Dodge and Ford trucks. They are not hard at all to do. Ohh... There is an article here... I almost forgot...

Opps... Hold on a second... I was thinking filter on the engine. NOT the fuel pickup basket...