Mopar1973Man

Ummm... I hope you are not buying "GAS" for a diesel truck... I hope you are buying FUEL for your truck...

It got extended because out here I've got long stretches of highway and nowhere to pull over. Originally it was only a 5 minute log file and never could log issues at all because by the time I could pull over safely I already lost the information in the log file.

Crazy... Wells APPS sensors. If it wasn't for the electronics you won't have this issue. APPS relearn might help a bunch being it detect IVS switches and the voltage range from idle to WOT.

Measures amount of voltage drop from point to point. So between the two probes is the amount of voltage lost. So anything over 0.2 Volts is time to replace said cable. You can do this for any cable or wire just needs to be up to max amp load while measuring. Noise issues. This is created by the alternator again. Like in my article you need to leave the ground in the stock position and remove all filters and added ground leads. Like my truck when the alternator goes out the cruise control goes nuts instead of the torque converter or shift issues since I'm a manual. I highly suggest you put all wiring back to stock and just replace the alternator and have yours and the new alternator tested before you leave the store. Don't. All your going to is make a train wreck out of the APPS sensor. If you want to just rule it all out and remove that problem then replace with a Timbo's APPS there is no voltage adjustment and no setting of the APPS being its fully mechanical. Everyone that goes messing with the stock APPS sensor makes a huge mess of it being all the articles out there are WRONG about voltage adjustments. I've got a correct article here.

Can't measure OHMs with a live lead. You have to do the voltage drop test and measure how much voltage is lost under heavy load like starting or grid heater. Starting is the biggest ranging somewhere around 400-700 Amp draw this would yet the heaviest load the cables would have to cover. Being grid heaters either are 95 Amps single element or 190 for both elements. Starting load test is the best.

Then the other factor that will kick in is braking performance becomes poor. You'll need to upgrade to 3rd Gen brakes to overcome the leverage that the large tires will place on the brakes. Rotational mass and leverage will impact the braking performance negatively and increase brake wear.

When you say that I think Boise Idaho... So now I know and understand you are in Montana... https://www.google.com/search?q=rocky+mountain+cummins+boise+idaho

You might want to edit your profile to include your location at least City and State. I'm curious where you are at. Like here it suppose to rain tonight already down to 43*F.

Here you go...

Be really careful here. Once you start down this road it get rather hairy quick. Don't think you can just put a leveling kit on and everything just works. Sorry you have to realize the changes in the axle geometry and how it impacts steering and performance. Then you going to add the oversized tires on top it's also going to impact the steering and longevity of the steering parts as well. Might consider looking into the correct control arm lengths for your lift / leveling kit. This will help a bunch in correcting the geometry of the axle again. Be aware this will impact final gearing of the truck so if your doing the 35" I highly suggest you re do the gearing on the axle(s) to 4.10. I've got a local gent that's running 37" tires and was having to build way more power just to twist the tires with 3.55 gears. Now after swapping to 4.10 the truck way more powerful and fuel mileage is way up.

Mickey doesn't look so good. I think he needs to put his back into the hub more to get it stopped...

Enuf said...

Typically that's going to be either steering gear box needs adjustments to take the slack out or tie rod ends are getting sloppy. Man, you are getting the rough end of the stick these days...

Correction... 25 degrees at 55 MPH in 4th gear.

Remember if data is being transmitted it will jump up and down. Those voltage are while the system is at rest. Might cycle the key off and pause 10 seconds and back on. Then pause awhile and see if the voltages are closer. It tells that it's not shorted to... Ground +5V 12V

Seriously... Timing is a key factor in high MPGs and performance. The whole thing that is that you don't want too much timing and blow the head gasket or too little and being wasteful. Like my latest change looks promising but it pretty steep timing. Running about 23.2 degrees at 65 MPH in 5th gear. Amazing high running 55 MPH in 4th like 24 degrees. Need to run this tank and see the results but looking good. Strange to see lower EGTs yet.

To a degree it is...

Good use for the boost limit...

I'm in the process of trying to clean up my Economy Tune still. Really close to calling this a release edition. I'm not going to place it in the download area yet till I'm sure the numbers are productive. iQuad-Economy-2017-10-07-08.41.181666734247.json

You got to remember that the torque converter is going to dictate the RPM that truck is going to run at RPM wise. Like if you have a lower than stall converter and large injectors with a Smarty with little to no fuel to boost control you going to have a smoke issue. As for which gear the transmission is running in is based on spring tension and hydraulic pressure for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. This is based on TV cable adjustments and valve body setup more so.

Stock on most truck is NOT the door stricker. Like on my 02 it shows that goofy 245 size but it came stock with 265/75 R16. Like my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 shows 225/75 R16 but came stock with 235/85 R16... So calibrate for 265's I bet its right on the money...

Basically, any Android head unit or Android device (cell phone, tablet, etc.) should be able to do that task for you. None of are in a competitive mode at all really other than tuning to clear up smoke and improve daily driver performance. Like I came from an Edge Comp that was rather dirty and impossible to clean up because of the lack of tuning and timing controls.

Tune data or data logs. As for building tunes I would start with the default tune and tweak it slowly. Default Quadzilla tune isn't bad starting place. As for what works on my truck may or may not work for you. Like I'm running nearly 23* worth of cruise timing.

Plan on it... Trying to get my calibration on the Dash Command good and then flip over to the Edge Comp.

The only thing I can say is either take the time and clean the EGR system or delete it. Personally I would just delete. Most people want to hold on the warranty so that tosses back to cleaning the system out.