Mopar1973Man

It could be injection pump issues. I just ran into a truck the white smokes on start as well. Then the magic P0216 code popped up.

??? Why would you? Rotors just slide off the hub. Like I said just remove the caliper then caliper frame then slide the rotor off the hub.

Just remove the calipers and caliper frames then remove the rotor.

Quadzilla tuner... Too bad you truck isn't diesel.

As of this morning 03/07/17 I've now updated my tune file on the first post. I'm really curious if I can hold a even 20 MPG or higher MPG for the week.

Same thing that @Me78569 is running in his truck HID lighting.

There is an another option to go to a tire shop and get a new shrader and just change it out. You can use the tire tool and remove the old one and install a new shrader valve.

Be aware I've been updating my tune file as I go along so double check the file again. I'm due to update the file with my last week changes.

First off you need a new ECM. Then second off you need to test for excessive AC noise from the alternator.

I'll try to get the write up done...

...you need 3 seconds of stable everything above to enter cruise state. So what I've done is build the main timing map as my fail out map which is about 2* lower than the cruise timing.

At least mine you can feel really good in the cab or hear it at the exhaust pipe.

@Carbur8tr you might want to take a look at this post by @Me78569 and see the timing curves of the Smarty tuner this will give you a base tune as well to build from.

Here you go... My whole article on it.

Never really used either the sunglass storage or the garage door opener. Being I wear prescription glasses I normally just have clear glass lens and use clip on shades. So I never use the sunglass storage because too hard to dig out the clip on and not to mention I end up with fingerprints all over the lens. I keep mine in my CD storage sleeve on the sun visor. As for garage door opener, I had one years ago and the remote was way too big for the storage area also the button was in the wrong spot too. So I never used it.

Recalibration was done as of yesterday. I should be back on track now between hand math and OBDLink.

OFF - should be normal IAT and ECT sensors. MPG - Should fool only the IAT to 143*F 6 CYL - Should fool both IAT to 26*F and ECT to 123*F 3 CYL - Should fool only the IAT to 13*F. Now you may ask why on 6 CYL doing the ECT and the IAT. This allows for locked 6 CYL continuous high idle. You can get automatic by start the 6CYL mode and then turning the switch to MPG or OFF after the 6 CYL has started to ramp up.

All I can say is if cetane booster are the hot ticket they must love the winter diesel when its cranked up to 50-55 cetane then. I've driven over 4,000 miles last month still running winter 50 cetane fuels. Here is my last month fuel logs. I'll be so glad to see summer fuel when it drops back down to 40-43 cetane locally. Then I'll pop back up in MPG's. All I can say is I've watched a truck dyno on strictly #2 diesel fuel. Then added a popular name brand cetane booster. Then dyno'ed again the results were roughly about -30 HP reduction in power. This test was done on a strictly stock truck. So cetane booster does not add HP/TQ just like I quoted out the ASTM labs... Somewhere in my notes and article I found the Cummins requirement for cetane and its 40-43 in the summer and 45-47 cetane in the winter.

I've upgraded to the OBD Link dongle. I love this over the ScanGauge II which is corded and no data logging. The OBDLink does data logging which is nice so you can drive and review logs later on.

Dynamic is located in Newman Lake, WA. I would give him a call for information. His contact information is listed in the vendors area.

Most likely no boost elbow would do it.

New circuit boat design right? So double check the coolant plugs and double check your switch position. If still not working create a support ticket and we'll deal with the problem.

Ummm... EGR all you doing is flooding the air mixture with CO2. Everyone is so wrap up with cold air having denser charge of oxygen but then accept the idea of EGR pump exhaust gases and CO2 back in the intake. Then you got to have the EGR cooler to make sure the intake temps do get out of hand. (sarcasm) Yeah, EGR is such a great device every truck needs one! (/sarcasm) EGR - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation Nicely packed up intake on a 6.7L Cummins... Electronics look at the 2003 and up Dodge's you'll see the multi-injection event is not as efficient and also the timing it heavily retarded. So there is no extra power really here. They managed to take a million mile engine and turn it into a about 200-300k mile engine that is completely wore out. After doing a full delete on 6.7L and see the results. I can tell you all you newer electronics and EGR is not helping the engine in any way. Being the deleted truck has way more power and ran much cleaner without the EGR and DPF. So with all the losses of the newer electronics and EGR more loss of fuel BTU's... I really don't see how high cetane fuel will gain you anything...

I don't see how? Being there is less energy per gallon. If high cetane is so good we all be wanting winter fuel to hang around longer and hate to see summer fuel when cetane numbers go down again.

I will quote again from the ASTM testing labs... There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to ensure maximum fuel availability." As you'll see between winterized fuel that is high cetane vs. low cetane of the summer time... Dark green 133-134K BTU's for summer fuel at about 43 cetane. Light Green 126K BTU's for winter fuel at about 54 cetane.