Mopar1973Man

Look up the MSDS sheets for it you'll be able to make a judgement call then... Here is a post I found with a MSDS sheet... https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3277925/Re:_Archoil_AR6200

Nicely done... That alternator bracket looks a bit out of place to the rest of the stuff...

Kwel... Glad to hear the truck is working out for you. Also glad to see you pop back in once in awhile to say hi...

I can only imagine that that replacing those injectors will be in the same ball park of every 100-150k miles figuring from $580 per injector is about 4,600 roughly speaking. Then all the DPF issues and EGR cooler... Oh my I bet that a real pain in the rear to change that stuff out when it plugs up.

I wouldn't want one... I can just imagine what changing the injectors are like on that tight little engine and engine bay. I'm sure they still have the injector failures just like all the other common rail ISB engines do.

Here is my article...

FEBRUARY FUEL LOGS Nearly 4,000 miles later. +0.59 MPG gain over last month. I will admit I was playing with the performance tune on the last two trips and having a bit of fun. So you'll see a bit more down turn on my off days... So you can see I was playing hard... Now if you take notice to the double fill on Feb. 4 you notice that the logs are nearly right on. That was during my period of calibration. But i'll do another here shorting after I'm done playing with my Economy tune and getting the timing set up. Now at 21-22nd you see my error crept back in... Being the price of fuel is sprung up on me I need to knuckle down and get this tuning done for the Economy tune. So play time is over. Time to start hitting big MPG numbers again.

My elevation is lower as well. I might travel over a few high point but spend a majority of time at 2,000 to 3,000 foot range on my runs. Max might reach 5,200 feet (Outside McCall, ID). I got to admit I love my performance tune I'm lower in the timing curve but pulls so darn hard. Now as for the economy tune I'm attempting to find the sweet spot on this. Starting a bit high and going to work my way down. I know with the current factors 20* and above timing is rather harsh and not getting much for MPG's.

I'm in the same boat for the time being the only thing is I've got more miles on my injectors. My misfire is only at fully warmed up state typically noticeable after running hard on the highway. My first set of RV275's failed basically when the pop pressure fell out to about 240bar. Now I think this set of injectors are head the same direction being I've cleaned them up and the whole bit but still got a random warm idle miss. Now mine I can explain to wear... As for you is a quality control problem most likely.

Go out on google play you'll see the OBD apps available you can use any app you want for OBDlink if you wish but the other problem is you most likely going to have to pay for other apps. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree&hl=en https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.palmerperformance.DashCommand&hl=en https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=Palmer Performance Engineering&hl=en https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=Ian Hawkins&hl=en

That was easy. DPDT switch. I found the breaker in my panel for the outlets in the RV. So both hot and neutral go to the center pins. Then on one side is the hot neutral from the inverter and then the other side is hot neutral for the city. So this transfer switch actually breaks and connects both hot and neutral to the outlet. I use a center OFF style switch so there was a moment of power break or you could shut both supplies off. SOURCE1- Hot Neutral OUTLET --- Hot Neutral SOURCE2 - Hot Neutral

Kind of like saying don't need to add oil because it's above the ADD mark. I would still top off and do a equalize charge afterwards. This is a controlled over charged state. For 12V batteries it would be raising to 15.5 voltage. So like most battery chargers with high amperage setting typically go higher in voltage. So monitor your charging voltage and basically run the amps down low. Like my 24V battery bank goes to 31.5 volts for about 2 hours. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/equalizing_charge

If you chasing the grid heater take a IR temp gun and measure the temp of the grid heater. This will require removing the air horn to get a beam on the grid itself.

Go over to LarryBs web site he's got full starter rebuild kits. Bearings, brushes, and contacts.

Might be time to pop test the injectors. Might be getting a bit pissy.

That looks like my shop right now. Needs a serious clean up.

How old are the injectors?

I went through 2 sets off contacts and finally wore the brushes out after 15 years and nearly 275k miles. My new NAPA starter spun my truck over super easy to prime a dry fuel system without cracking any lines. I just did a injector cleaning and reinstalled.

Ok back when I quoted the 19 to 21 degree stock timing. I figured it out and can repeat it many times now. IAT 50 to 60F, then set you cruise at 45, 55, 65 MPH now sample the stock timing by flipping to level 0 while cruising on flat ground low engine load. This is part of that timing increase when the IAT falls below 80F.

Just remember gang don't get all wrapped up with brand names. There are only 3 companies that produce batteries. That being said more than likely there are several brands that are just relabelled by that same manufacturer. Just remember the stock batteries are 750 CCA. Anything above is a bonus. But... It won't do a lick of good if the cables or the starter are up to the task. You can have 2,000 CCA worth of batteries and bad cables, terminals, and weak starter and still have troubles starting.

Another way is to pull the small plug and trip the ABS light. Once that occurs the ABS module is disabled till the key is cycled then it starts over error checking and seeing if its a passing grade or not.

I would consider trading the stock dampener back on and seeing if the problem changes. If so then I would be looking at the lower end.

I'm in neutral at every stop I come too. So I hear the step down idle and then the once it steps down the vert faint misfire starts. It only takes me pulling on the steering wheel or pressing harder on the brake to kill it off. Now when it was bad it would shake the entire cab and loads wasn't enough to stop the miss. The funny part is shut it down for 30-60 seconds and start again the miss is gone. I shown a few friends this and then are scratching their heads. I do know it an injector issue for sure. This is exactly what happened to my RV275's when they went. Pop pressure fell to 240bar. Thes injectors don't even have 100k miles yet. I will say that Quadzilla is not the cause per say. It might be producing conditions that create the issues. I will say it not the cause. All I know it period of long highway speed that will start the miss only at idle. I've had this issue on the Edge Comp in the past. I might be just unlucky to have injectors going south. Another way I'm going about tuning is to flip to ZERO level (stock) sample the timing the the timing given for different loads, speeds and attempt to slightly advance that timing. Thing to remember is the stock OEM timing is built around EPA rules not performance. This is why I look back still at a few thing like my MPG fooler it retards timing to gain MPG's which is usually because of the excessive cold IAT timing map. Then looking back on p7100 tuners that are not racing typically set for 16* to 17* typically for highway vehicles. I'm trying to base my tune on the fact I'm typically 15-30% engline load for hours, boost pressure is typically <5 PSI. So as for huge timing I just don't see it when I spin the RPM's barely 1,600 to 1,900 for 55-65 MPH. The only time this rule changes is 55 in 4th gear now steps up to 2,100 RPM's and running 80 MPH on I84 then I'm turning nearly 2,400 RPM but at 15 PSI of boost.

You got to remember those guys are also running monster fire nozzle injectors typically too. I'm running nearly stock +50 HP injector (7 x 0.008) so my fuel is atomized rather well and doesn't require the extra timing to get the fuel to light off. Also I'm running high cetane fuels right now with winter fuel still being supplied.

I've gone through my injectors and hand cleaned them all and re-polished the pintle shoulders and tips to make sure there was no debris or burrs. It reduced the miss to very faint level after hard runs. Basically chucked up the pintle and using a shop rag and some polishing compound to polish the pintle smooth. Still high speed runs tends to make it more noticeable. I'm back down... way down... 14* performance and 16-17* cruise timing. I'm still roughly 2-3* over stock numbers. 1500 - 14* 2000 - 16* 2500 - 18* 3000 - 21* Max - 24* Cruise - 4* Fuel Load - 2*