Mopar1973Man

I thought you bought the Injectors from DAP (Jacob)???

RV275's will be sold typically as is. If you get a custom injector typically you can ask for pop testing and flow matching.

All I can say is do your research on local rebuilders. Pay more attention to warranty and return policies.

At .05 AC volts may or may not create random issues. Kind of breaking point depending on the vehicle. Beyond 0.05 it tend to get more absolute and more of a problem.

No longer producing new ECM units any longer. All ECMs from this point on are all remanufactured.

Sounds like your rather aggressive when you are offroading. I'm travel a lot of forestry roads and haul lots of firewood in the summer time. Typically I'm rather mello when I travel back roads being failures might leave you walking a very long ways to get help.

That's a passing grade for sure.

Just about made a full week of dialysis here in Boise. I'm working on getting it transferred to Ontario, OR to hopefully save on the travel time for both of us. Really tough to get the noon position in these clinics. Other than that MoparMom is doing good and healthy. Just gotta have patience and say a few prayers and hope they get answered. Still working to find out if PD is still an option yet.

The other one you could try is Vulcan Performance. Eric been really good about taking care of my needs for injectors too.

I've kind of noticed a funky rough idle this morning on a cold start. Once it warmed up it disappeared. Double check my program setting and nothing stands out. Might be just fluke? We'll see and keep track of things.

What was your measurement?

I've not heard of any belts breaking as of yet for the fuel Boss pump setup.

Sound very plausible... I can do similar with my manual attempting to keep traction on ice or slick roads.

Disconnecting the batteries does NOT reset codes nor does it fix any problems. All error codes are held for 40 warm up cycles then erased if there is no future codes in the 40 warm up cycles.

Most steering boxes can be readjusted. If you got leaks to I would opt for rebuild kit. This way get all the debris out of the box, then adjust it up on assembly. Then it be all new.

I plan on 500k miles out off my truck. I'm nearly 280k now.

Coolant spiking out is a sign of ecm failure.

Test the alternator for excessive AC noise. The alternator is the first step. You might get away without messing with the ECM. More important to clean the battery terminals. The grounds under the hood are mostly secondary stuff like lights and horn.

For temperature gauges the max range is -40 to 240F. For All other gauges it's common sense. Like TPS is 0 to 100 percent. HP and torque is just run and see. Set a range you can work with.

I know the feeling being stuck in Boise because of this passing storm. It was just safer to stay for two nights. Travelling in a white out sucks.

Welcome to the family... Another firewood hauler. Jump in and post everyone is helpful and like one big family...

Now you know why I've got the tablet with both ECT and IAT temperatures. Then marked my optimal ranges for both with green.

What kind of failure are we talking about?

I got to say Thanks to @Me78569 for helping me fix my programming screw up. In my hurry last night I manage to cross my TPS values and created a very poor tune that dropped me from my 20a to mid teens. This over advanced my timing and pulled my MPGs way down. So to others make sure of your numbers you enter are correct. All I can say is D'Oh!

10.5 is a dead battery and is taking on damage for sure.