Mopar1973Man

Grid heater relays are arc closed. Just need to replace the grid heater relays.

Here is more information on that... http://www.srh.noaa.gov/wgrfc/

Drain for the HVAC plugged up and holding water in the bottom? Like @Me78569 said heater core should give off a sweet smell as the vapor blows off. About 90% of the time those kind of issues end up being the heater core. The only other moisture would be the A/C side and it holding moisture in the drain area because of blocked drain. Other than that there is no other moisture or water source in the HVAC system.

Another spot that seem to be impossible to find the leak is the compressor front seal. It won't leave dye and impossible to snif while the truck is run with a fan blowing.

If I'm not mistaken my AirDog 150 is 14 AWG wire and 10 Amp fuse.

Ummm... There is so much I want to say about that but don't want to offend anyone that might be a cat owner. All I can say is that is just Wrong...

Droplet size. For example nice hot day say 100+ outside. Now take a standard garden hose at 60-70 PSI and spray nozzle and create a fine mist upwards in the air. That mist will most likely evaporate before hitting the ground. Now take a 2 1/2 fire hose at 60-70 PSI and nozzle attempt the same thing you'll end up with water on the ground and evaporation will be poor because the droplet size is too big. TFaoro on the other hand is using boost pressure to created the added heat to burn the fuel by twin turbos. More boost pressure means more cylinder heat to convert the larger droplets. Just remember just cranking the engine around will produce 400-450 PSI of compression more boost means high cylinder pressures, which in turn means bigger nozzle injectors can be used because the heat is present to burn the fuel.

Front wheel bearings are bad. (Tone rings)

As for temps like today I had a 60 mile round trip down canyon to look at a stall issue on a truck. Even on my way back home climbing the canyon again. It hovered like this all the way home.

When it comes to oil change time the grease gun and oil change occur at the same time. I even pull the front shaft out so I can grease the 2 near the transfer case.

More on compression and heat. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_piston The key part here is... So now consider cold start and colder winter time weather conditions. Efficiency is reduce not to mention the high cetane fuels that aid in the ignition quality but have reduced BTU amount per gallon. So coolant and IAT temperatures play a key role in ignition quality and MPG numbers. Then again back to injectors if you have a good fine mist then iginition is easy but if you had large 100HP or larger then the quality falls. When I say warm I don't mean crazy hot just added warmth to promote good ignition quality. Being that the 98.5 to 02 ISB Cummins is the lowest compression ratio of all the series we need all the help we can get for ignition quality. So now look back at the fire piston and consider your fuel (tender) and compression. Then it all starts to click together a bit easier.

@65mph my egts are appx 650F no wind and outside temp about 75 deg 18-20% Engine load 40-50 HP (flywheel) 120-130 FT/LBS (flywheel) @55mph my egts are appx 550F no wind temp 75 235/85 R16 tires 5th gear nv4500 Edge Comp 5x3 +50HP injectors Vulcan Performance HX35 level road surface NO load

Again... Quality of spray. The finer the mist the easier it is to convert to vapor to go BANG! So quality of the nozzle, quality of the pop test and flow matching. So a poor quality nozzle like Edge Jammers popped and flow match will still be crappy for MPG because the spray is poor anyways. It just a dirty nozzle. This one reason I always kind of chuckle about the cold air intake. Because colder the air long to convert and loss of timing for ignition. Take notice to the IAT temp and the high marker. No fooler used. The low numbers are towing my RV.

MPG is about quality of spray. A injector with a finer spray pattern, matched pop and flow rate will produce better MPG's. Most vendors just grab 6 injectors off the shelf and toss then in a box to ship. Like mine I had Eric at Vulcan Performance do the pop test and flow match of all 6 within 3% of them all.

Something like? https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NPJP330/NPJP330_0325356452

You stripped it out it just a piece of thin sheet metal for the nut inside. So many people strip that out.

it's the illusion of timing. So stock injectors flow only so fast. Now you open up the nozzle with a larger size now the flow rate is faster so you get you fuel in the cylinder faster giving the illusion of timing advancement. Problem as nozzle size increases the droplet size does too. So you require more cylinder heat and/or boost pressure to prevent smoke. Because as boost pressure goes up so does cylinder pressure... Higher cylinder pressure means more heat. 30 PSI is roughly 1,100 PSI at TDC in the cylinder. Just remember liquid fuel will NOT burn. All fuels have to be converted to vapor before it will burn hence the black smoke issue with large nozzles.

Exhaust brake... I use mine all the time I do 90% of all my stopping with it and the last 10% which is at speeds lower than 20 MPH. So my service brakes last will over 180-200k miles. Exhaust brakes are not just a trailer or towing thing... This video is subtitled with the actions I'm performing. Take notice to the brake pedal point. This is also empty truck no trailer.

This is like machine language of a 6502 processor of a Atari 800 computer.

Hang on a second the basic data like all your gauges... Fuel level, oil pressure, volts, coolant are all on the CCD bus. Like coolant is already part of the diagnostics PID's already. so that means we should still be able to get basic data yet without all the special stuff. Now if your diving deeper like say timing or commanded fuel now I can see needing the programming mode and jumping over. Again there is a lot of data just on the CCD network we need to fish out first before jumping in deep for the super stuff.

So we are on the right track now. We now just got to poke at the data or sniff the bus and see what falls out next right?

OK... So now flipping back to ELM327 chips you can set the baud rate for anything you want. Look at AT BRD...

Here is the raw data...

So close.... Changed it to (A*.145)-28 which nearly zeros the gauge out. You math starts out at 26.62 PSI just idling. So after driving with it the values aren't quite right actually boost pressure 5 PSI shows about 8-9 on the OBDLink then it max'ed out at 18 PSI exactly which would be the boost fooler of the Edge Comp.

Just an quick update. I just make a trip up on the mountain getting ready to do firewood cutting. So this trip was just only the truck. I climbed the grade at the posted speed limit of 20 MPH for 8 miles and the most I got for transmission temperatures was 140*F that with 800-1000*F EGT's most of the way up the grade. Then proceeded to cruise around most of the forestry roads looking for firewood spots and seeing what roads and such are gate is shut or open. After traveling around up there for a total of 40 miles only seen a max temperature of 140*F and low of 130*F just drifted between to the two marks the entire time. I went from roughly 1,700 feet at the valley floor to a high of 6,500 feet the temperature up here was roughly 55*F. Now after hitting the valley floor and hitting the highway again back to 65 MPH it only rose to 140*F for the trip home. As for the valley floor temperature it was 75*F. I should be traveling this road very soon with the trailer and logs and we'll see how much it changes.