Mopar1973Man

This is where experience helps a bunch in adding on top of existing fill. You base off of pressures more so but also have ot be aware of outside temps at the time. Like This morning I've got to run and do another A/C job this morning. It will be cold when I do it. Current temperature here right now is 46*F. So now the owner admits they added to the system but not work quite right. Small sedan car. So max rule for me is 1.5 can to 2 for a full load. Now considering pressure and temperatures just gotta work with it. Like my previous example it can't always base on pressures.

@IBMobile post is correct. Now this why to some degree you have to look at both measurements weight of freon vs pressures on the gauges. For example the Subaru I repaired yesterday. It had a bad expansion valve. Regardless of the failure I had to completely purge the system to do the repair then recharge. Now on the radiator support it states the amount of freon in kilograms of 0.6 to 0.7 kg. Each 12oz can is 340g. So that means 2 cans should be on the mark. Now in the case of this Subaru it does not even come close to normal table pressures. At full charge it was 28-32 PSI low side and only 120-150 PSI high side. Outside temperature at the time was about 75*F. Vent temperature hovered at about 44*F on high fan. So the table is a good reference but in the same token if you not aware of capacity you can potentially overcharge the system attempting to reach a pressure that is unreachable because of design. You can see the expansion valve needle stuck open...

I carry full coverage on both the 2002 Dodge and my 2000 Jayco. There is other reasons behind the full coverage.

Green line is a vent vacuum. Black line should vacuum source. I font remember the rest.

Check your pressures again then do like @IBMobile suggested too.

Sounds like your rather pleased with your new truck there Dorkweed. I'm curious of what the life span is like for he newer gasoline powered trucks? Another thing I'm curious about what is the oil change interval like too?

Personally with +50HP injectors you fine with a stock turbo. Larger turbo is just going to increase turbo lag and smoke during launching.I think I remember @Wild and Free running +100 HP injectors with his HX35 turbo back in the day.

Some of the test are ohming from point to point. Them the the other test is ohm to ground looking for shorts to ground. so that why it seem weird probing the loom and then ground with both unhooked.

Might want to do the AC noise test.

I know a few "green horn" hotshot drivers that destroyed a clutch rather quickly from reverse loading of the disc like KATOOM mentions. When you towing heavy loads like 20,000 pounds you cannot just simple clutch in, gear down and ease on the clutch. Because what's happening is your attempting to use the clutch like a brake as you re-engage the friction material. Lot of the fire trucks I drive are older transmissions that either non-syncro'ed or just super old and tired. You learn quickly how to RPM match. It's all about reducing the initial contact stress, once the clutch if fully clamped by the pressure plate then the clutch with withstand the load. Of course as long as you are not gearing down too hard for said load.

Just looking over the price on reclaiming machines which is outrageous. Like this little guy is nearly $500 and prices go as high as $6,000 for the fancy computer device ones. Most of the machines are not very portable with weights as high as 200 pounds. Even the simpler one are nothing more that compressor than pumps freon from the system back into a storage vessel. So... Say for example your compressor was low on oil and created a bit "black death" (wear debris) in the system. So now if your hook up and reclaim that without knowing you've just contaminated your storage vessel. So now all you freon in your storage vessel has wear debris in the freon. Now it unusable. I would much rather vent to the freon of and use fresh "clean" freon back in a vehicle knowing there is absolutely no contaminates in the freon being used in the system.

Yeah, Yeah, EPA this, EPA that... I'm sorry but if I was to hit a deer tonight my entire load of freon will be dumped into the atmosphere. If I T-bone another vehicle again freon is lost. So why create material that common to buy in part store, no license or training required to use. Think of all the older vehicles with slow leaks and everyone pumping cans of freon into there systems. Where is that leaking freon going? You got it... Into the atmosphere. You might want to look at what it used for... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane

I've got my tire pressures figured out for these tires and set the pressures at 60 PSI in the front and 40 PSI in the rear for daily empty truck travel. Then towing the trailers its 60 PSI in the front and 60-65 PSI in the rear. I've got close to 1,000 miles on these tires so far and doing well. Very low noise if any at all. MPG's are still great capable of tipping 24-26 MPG empty running.

This is all I'm using is 1/4" x 1/4" hardware mesh. Little stiffer than window screen and easy to work with. Do not attach any screen to the condenser itself. This will in fact rub holes in the tubing and later cause leaks in the system. It best to attach the screen to the grill this way it never makes contact to the condenser or tubing. Yes you can recharge the system yourself after replacing any A/C parts but you'll need a vacuum pump and manifold gauge set. The vacuum pump is to draw a vacuum on the system to remove all moisture from the A/C system before charging. The the manifold gauge set always you to monitor your hi and lo pressures while charging. This is really close to what I current use to charge A/C systems gauges are bit more fancy than mine are...

Now you know what I've got hardware mesh zip tied to the grill on the inside and then tuck hardware mesh in the bumper holes. This is to possible prevent object like stones and large bugs like beetles hitting the condenser and bending the fins over. Yeah simple things like this can make huge improvement. For the cheap fix would be to do like @leathermaneod did and carefully straighten out all the fins or the quick way is to just replace the entire condenser for around $100 bucks.

Or... Just give me a shout at (208) 628-3645 we can talk about it.

Just thinking about this @IBMobile might be a good idea of teaming up building a new A/C article built around both of our ideas. It would be awesome.

The whole removing the battery terminal does nothing the ECM or PCM modules are flashed with software and cannot be altered by simply unhooking the battery. If you want to reboot the computer a simple key off for 10 seconds or so and back on with reboot all computers. You've got a short in the compressor trigger circuit. Not to mention it might be under charged not normal for the system to ice up. Even on low fan it should only sweat never freeze. Low pressure switch might be faulty and low on charge. I'm starting to wonder if the ignition switch is failing to energize that circuit or the contacts are weak on that side.

Exactly how I drive anyways...

There was another one where member here used flat piece of metal and two exhaust clamps to hold it in place. Same idea just a bit simpler to produce and no welding required. I do like your idea. @leathermaneod You might be worried about keeping the heat off for the summer. I'm waiting for winter time to find a way to get heat to the transmission so it does warm up on super cold days when it's minus temperatures out.

As for testing vent temp buy a cheap digit kitchen thermometer and use it for testing the vent temperature. I've seen weird reports from IR temp guns and different color changes the temperature displayed.

Thanks @IBMobile... That good info...

You pressure numbers are fine just the hi side showing that the condenser is running a bit hot and not discharging heat very well. Fan clutch might be weak or the condenser is plugged up with bugs.

... or burning fires. Sometime, you have to defend your castle from nature and/or man.

Absolutely... I totally understand that. Kind of like where I'm at in Idaho I've never found another place like it yet. Like even dealing with the guest house flooding out twice now. I still won't give up I continue to hold tight to this place.