Mopar1973Man

Heck with that I'm bringing a fire dept float pump and about 300 feet of 1 1/2" fire hose. I'll cool you all down... Then break out the beer...

Doesn't mean there isn't an error code in memory. There is several error codes that can be tripped and not display the check engine light. Did you ohm out the wires from end to end checking for 0-5 ohm? Also, ohm from wire to ground and you should see inifinite ohms this shows none of the wires are shorted to ground. This is a good wire. Double check to see if there is 12V at the transmission on the RED wire with the key ON. Possible... I would talk to @Dynamic for ways of verifying the torque converter.

Ok... Any error codes? Here is the transmission wiring... You might want to look over that orange/black wire for torque converter control. Also look at the fuse and relay in the PDC. These are what supplies power for the transmission. The PCM only provides the ground to lock it up.

So for the sake of safety I suggest people stick with the GVWR rating of the trailer. There is rare times like AH64ID points out you can exceed some GVWR values. Since most people do not know the manufacture specs of there trailer frame, axle, tires, brakes, etc. I would still highly suggest to stay below GVWR. Less likely to have issues, failures or an accident.

I would rebuild the stock box and save huge amount of money. I've rebuilt a ton of sagnaw boxes and they are not hard. Seal kits are super cheap these days too. I know we had the member attempt and end up destroying a seal. As for making them tight again is all done doing the reassembly of the box you can adjust all slack out of the box. Just doing search for the seal kit it roughly $20 to $30 buck for a rebuild kit.

Just like my 100w aircraft landing lights...

That is your fuel heater. I would not suggest losing it either being your just north of me in Moscow, ID.

Most all 2 cycle oils today are ashless.

If that Chicken comes from Fukushima's Red Exclusion Zone.... I'll skip that BBQ... I just lost my appetite

Agreed! Typically in trailers, it's either axles or frame limitations. Like for example, my BigTex 70TV is rated for 7,000 pounds with twin 3,500 pound axles. Now the BigTex 60CH flat bed trailer is 6,000 GVW. As you'll see the same axles are used in the two trailers so why only GVWR 6,000 pound limit? Because the frames are not the same. I actually stopped at the BigTex factory to ask about that and it not always an axle or tire limitation but a frame limitation could occur!

Sorry to say @dripley they already united in the spit cooking in their own juices.

Good Gawd... Those can carry serious weight. Could you throw a link of the tires you are running. I might want to buy some next time. On a dual axle trailer that's 15,840 pounds of carry capacity! I've got to ask what speeds are you still running? I know you run a lot of interstates.

I'm following along with the HX35/40 turbo that @CSM gave me. So far after disassembly of the compressor housing I can test the compressor wheel is nearly making contact with the housing. Enough the tip of the compressor wheel where clean. It did have some oil residue showing on the exhaust side. So rebuilding is going to be required...

That why there scales all around. I don't over load my trailers typically. Also there is a reason GVWR is stamped or labeled on all vehicles. Since I was just down at Tire Factory Ontario, OR yesterday I ask the tire tech there about the pressures you should run in your ST tires. His response is that you should not be running MAX inflation pressure unless the trailer is meeting the load limitations of the tire. ST tire should not be inflated solid or max inflation to the point of no flex at all this will cause tire damage. He agrees that if the tire is marginal and barely covers the trailer weight then yes you'll be forced to max inflate the tire. Even he suggests it's bests to be a load range higher and not have to max inflate ST tires. All radial tires are intended to flex hence why the design of the tire.

Personally I've been just doing reman'ed alternators. I don't think it worth buying a new alternator after seeing several members here getting brand new alternator that are junk in the box. One member went through 5 "brand new" alternators before getting one good one. Just make sure what ever alternator you buy you have tested before you leave the store.

You'll find that analog is easier to read than the digital displayed numbers. You'll find yo can watch the needle positions really easy to know its rise or fall and how fast. Digital numbers it takes more visual time to watching number and very difficult to see rise and fall times. One of the reasons I fell away from ScanGauge II as well and moved over to OBDLink dongles. I will agree Quadzilla is a better performance box the Edge. I will say I'm not impressed by Edge Juice at all I'm played with a few of them and the amount of toyz I'm not impressed. It's got a small screen and all digtal gauges again more visual time to mentally process what your looking at. As for tuner its no different that Edge Comp just the Edge Comp is half the price and less all the dumb toyz. So now that I've done the OBDLink dongle I'm very close in design to Quadzilla for logging functions but half the price.

I bought my truck brand new in October 2002. I plan on running the wheels off this beast I don't plan on selling it anytime soon yet.

Darn mobile keyboards... Suppose to be dirt...

As for myself in running Rancho shocks with no issue. I've well over 100k miles and rides great even in diet roads.

I agree you should band clamp the resonator place also forward near the downpipe.

I just noticed a bunch of the photos are now missing on the original site now. Seem like someone didn't like the photos being up and getting them pull off.

The shaft that pokes out of the case that selects PRND21... That was really rusty looking in your picture I would of never push it back there the seal like that. Real pain in the rear to have to change that seal for gear selector shaft without pulling the transmission. Just make sure to clean the gear selector shaft and make it smooth before pushing through the seal again.

No. You are backwards. Dry weight is 6,588 GVWR is 8500 Actual weights are with full water, empty waste tanks, food and clothing. Again if I upgrade to load range G's at 3,750 @ 110 PSI would you still max inflate? Again max inflation doesn't always fit the trailer, tires, or loads. As you can see my actually scaled weight and GVWR. Still in the future I might upgrade to G's I never know if there is a good sale on them.

Something to consider KATOOM... Let's say I upgraded to Load Range G's (14 ply) on the RV. 3,750 pounds @ 110 PSI that is a gross capacity of 15,000 pounds for a mere 8,500 trailer GVWR. The OEM tire is a mere load range D (8 ply). Would you still inflate to max sidewall pressure? Reason why I point this out I've seen people do this upgrade on RV and other trailers where they are well above the GVWR rating of the trailer and still using max inflation pressure it is way over inflated. So in my using my RV as an example here it would be grossly over inflated. One of the gents I do work for I advised him as well. He told me he upgraded axles so he could run the Load Range G's on his enclosed trailers which came original with load range D's. The load range G's have a heavier carcase and can take a bit more abuse still in all with a 110 PSI max inflation there is no need to be that high. So be aware using the blanket statement of using max inflation does not cover every possible combination of trailer, axles, tires, and loads. Not everyone kept the factory size, load range or capacity tires which typically require a max inflation to hold GVWR. Again in the OP case of rental RV's you never know what the OEM tire was nor if they upgraded to load range well above. You never know...

Cost you billions if not trillions of dollars to clean it up if you do buy it.