Mopar1973Man

Alternator is done. Time to replace. You can rebuild it yourself but make sure to get both diodes and brush kit. There are other kits cheaper than LarryB as well. I will admit his diode packs are expensive. Make sure to get rid of all tin foil and wiring mods.

Most all cab related grounds go to the driver side kick panel or center of the dash. All engine related (ECM, PCM and VP44) go to the passenger side battery directly. The rest of external stuff are typically to the driver side fender shield.

Like mine fit under the bed. I know JAG1 has limited room being a slide in camper. This is the only thing I could find quick of JAG1 camper.

Just another update. The sun is going down on the ridge and casting shadows in the yard. This point I've lost all charging solar for the house. It's done for the day. My solar controller shows 0.4 amps at 24 volts or 9.6 watts.

Just an update. We topped out at 81*F here outside. The RV is barely creeping up to 57*F inside. Very comfortable inside. Now if my solar was on the roof my batteries will be dead within 24 hours.

For the house its multi crystalline (400w) . For the RV its Amorphous type. (45w) My Barber did exactly what you did put them on the roof and now carries a generator because parking the RV under the shade of the trees while camping the batteries are always dead. So back to carrying gasoline and gasoline generator. The reason I converted to solar is that amount of gasoline and run time required for the generator to catch up the batteries. I hated listening to that engine run even if it was on the other side of the pickup on a cord. Solar is completely quiet as long as the panels are exposed to full sunlight. Just partial coverage can degrade the charging 50% or more. Kind of like why I never stuck the solar panels on the roof of the house. Because in the dead of winter they would become worthless covered with snow, more shade where the house sits vs pole in the yard. The only reason I'm considering the solar upgrade on the house is the sole fact winter time direct sun is very limited so I need to increase amperage to get a better recharge in the winter time. Like like now either RV or the house can operate solely on the panels with no issues. Then again it about location of the panels. Consider this... Current outside temperature. Here is the house panels. No shade. RV in the shade of the tree like if I was camping. Now the temperature inside the RV. That 21*F reduction of heat. Even though the outside temp is 71*F at the time of shooting the pictures. It will stay much cooler in the RV all day long. So now the panels where on the roof there would be little to ZERO production. At least the interior of the RV is already air conditioned cool. For me small 3 amp charge with shade would kill it off to ZERO. Even my 400w array on the pole just a passing cloud shadow will kill off over 75% of the charge rate. So are you willing to be uncomfortable in the RV being hot in the summer for free power? I would say store them in a clip on the roof but make them removable and standalone so you can park in the shade, place the panels in the sun but store them on the roof when traveling.

The reason I mention the freestanding and warn about roof mounting is like everyone here I've talked too. They done the roof mounted panels and suffer during the summer time because the need to park the RV in full sunlight make the panels work efficiently. Like most of us that boondock look for shade to tuck the RV in so the living area is comfortable because there is no A/C. So if the RV is in shade the solar is worthless. Typical summer temperature for me is between 105-110*F so I normally hunt for as much shade as possible. So if my panels where over the bedroom area (forward) then my solar is worthless. Free standing I can chase patch of sunlight really easy. Still keep the interior of the RV very comfortable for the evening without having to park in direct sunlight.

What your looking at is Charging Amps. Typically around the 13.2 V. So 265W / 13.2V = 20 Amp charge rate. What I've got is the Amorphous type from Harbor Freight. As for the 45w I'm just about 3 Amps a charging Amps.

Remember if they are mounted to the roof the RV MUST be park in direct sunlight always! If free standing then the RV can be parked in the shade and the panels can be moved out to the sun. Just remember I'm powering a entire 2 story house with only 400w of solar. The RV is a mere 45w of solar and does well. So a single 265w panel would be more than enough. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-Solar-265-Watt-Polycrystalline-Solar-Panel-GS-P60-265-Fab2/206365796

Common replacement part. Doesn't surprise me...

Good to hear you got the project complete and the truck running...

I will note that if you find your self doing excessive APPS re-calibrations I would test the alternator for excessive AC noise.

Your fine... It will function just fine. Allow this to be a learning lesson about gauge installs.

If driving locally climbing single lane forestry roads then its typically lower because of the hard climbs. Out on the open highway as you see on April 7th I can do rather well.

Sad... I hate to here people get hurt. Then again people get hurt from lack of knowledge. If he was properly trained or knowledgeable about cutting trees we would of cut a notch or relief cut in the limb first.

Trust me you'll know if it seals or not... I screwed up and left a pyrometer probe loose once and trust me you can hear is whistle and make all kind of noises. Especially when the probe final unscrews and pops out. Now it really making noises.

I would suggest the Adrenaline tuner. Way better control of fuel and tuning which is needed for good MPG's. XZT is like the Edge EZ which is rather poor for a tuner / MPG wise. More aggressive the tuner the better the MPG can be.

Go up to the 24V articles and look at the 99 Wiring map it covers most everything you should need.

No. That's voltage drop over distance. The longer the run the less voltage will travel the distance. Like my solar panels in the front yard to keep the voltage high I had to run 2/0 cable. In your case the distance from the hook up point to your RV battery there is amount of loss for the distance of feet. http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html

I normally take a bit of PB Blaster Silicone spray and shoot the key lock with a burst in the key hole. If the key switch is wearing out you can easily replace it. Last one I bought at NAPA was right at $40 buck which is fairly cheap I'm sure you could do better on RockAuto.Com. As for the multifunction switch check for power black/violet, red/grey and also the pink.

Bingo... Batteries are better off slow charged anyways. Rapid charging batteries is hard on both the alternator and the battery. Even after couple hours of driving the batteries on the RV are typically back up within 80-90% of charge. At least speaking for 2nd gen trailer sockets its wired hot constant so even after the truck is shut down the main two batteries will continue to balance with the RV's two batteries.

Down on the tail harness there a 3rd Brake light lead bundle in the loom. When the guy install my canopy he hooked up the 3rd brake light for me. All I can say its near the trailer plug. Check local laws. At least here in Idaho on highway use you are allowed only 4 bulbs burning. So in my case its 2 headlight and two fog lights. Which I created separate hi and lo beam fog lamps. Again here is my method of reverse lights... As for the moon visor I have little idea. I know the lighting circuits are already marginal so if I was to pull power I would most likely go after the trailer relay.

The APPS is dropping out of normal operational range below its lower limit... Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) voltage is monitored when the engine is running. DTC may be stored if low voltage is detected on APPS signal circuit or low voltage is detected between Engine Control Module (ECM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

I don't have any wires hooked to the batteries of any of my accessories. Just a few hook to the PDC (AirDog, Fog lamps, and Cab Accessories). I've got both. I've got automatically with my reverse light but can manual toggle on with a cab switch for hitching the trailer. Yes it would be best. I added a relay back in my driver side tail light area. I tapped the trailer power +12V and got trigger from the reverse light leg. That way the light come on with reverse but the toggle in the cab just bridges the reverse light switch on the transmission giving optional control for hitching with out having to shift into reverse and shutting down the truck.

Typically you should have a fuse or something limiting the charge or current flow to that circuit so to protect from over loading. I wouldn't use much more that 10-14 AWG wire for charging the RV batteries. Like even the Dodge trailer plug is only a 10 AWG cable and again limited to 40 Amps on the trailer plug. Even my RV with nearly dead batteries never draws hard on the system because of cable and fuse limits.