Mopar1973Man

Nothing wrong with trout they make a great breakfast with a side of eggs.

Even here for the house. As the temperature fell towards 0*F the glass window even double pane would get cold enough to condense moisture right out of the air. In the RV the living space is smaller and just daily tasks like heating water for coffee, or making dinner can produce enough humidity to condense moisture on the glass windows. So typically the kitchen vent and the bathroom vent I would open about 1 inch enough to allow moist air to rise out. I've got 1 small window by the couch that you can crack open barely and keep the moisture levels controlled. Now I've forgotten a few times and got up to windows dripping wet and running water.

Here you have to remember the the elevation is only 2,800 feet. Now New Meadows proper is a different story all together at 3,829 feet. Now McCall, ID at 5,417 feet...

Good Morning from Idaho...

Like one of these... http://www.etrailer.com/Enclosed-Trailer-Parts/Fantastic-Vent/FV801200.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKEAiAxfu1BRDF2cfnoPyB9jESJADF-MdJQLLQeBYqwYEcibMASnWLG1XoGi8U7PIrptE-XRVRthoCZ-Xw_wcB

LOL... You got to leave a roof vent open just a wee bit. Even in my massive RV two people just can produce a lot of moisture in the air. So even in the cold of nights I'll crack bathroom and my bedroom roof vent just a small amount to allow moisture to travel out. In my old truck camper idea it was really common to wake up to it raining inside from all the moisture collecting on the aluminum canopy and every time someone rolled over it would shake off on the you in bed. You'll learn how to keep ventilation going to limit moisture levels.

258k (14 years) and not a single coolant issue yet... No scale, no build up at all. Now I've seen more damaged vehicles cooling system wise from over extending coolant flushing. Funny part is it doesn't matter if you use fancy HOAT and distill water or premix it will still cause scale build up after the pH level shifts and becomes corrosive.

I typically use Xylene to remove stickers. Still it may take the paint as well. It seems Xylene is a bit milder and doesn't seen to do it all the time.

That's why I went with a bumper pull vs. 5th wheel so I can take the ATV (Iron horse) in the bead of the truck and no need for double towing. Unless someone considers the upgrade to a toy hauler 5th wheel or bumper pull. I think for what Nick got and what he's looking to do it should work out rather well. I'm waiting to hear the return of the first trip. Personally myself I would do a local camping trip near home so to iron out the what I need to stock issues.

Quick test to prove the problem. On the section side disconnect and wipe the male nipple clean and then grease the male nipple and reconnect. Do both ends tank and pump. Then start the truck again afterwards to reprime the line. Then park as you had it again see if thee problem occurs again. IBMobile is right just replace all the crappy quick connects with Parker Push-Loc fittings.

I tend to agree it sounds like your picking up a bit of a air in the fuel.

I'll try that next time. Sounds like a awesome way to go for cleaning. Yeah it was poor planning on my part and then get word of a sudden shift in weather so I drain it out and pumped it up. Takes exactly 1 gallon to load my system with pink antifreeze.

So I spent a better part of my day out in the RV. I mixed up a bucket of simple green and water and proceeded to wipe down the entire RV. Just about ready to start packing the stock of goods back in the RV. Making sure there is enough TP and tissue for blowing the beak in the morning. Scrubbed the stove and oven. Wiped down the fridge and freezer. Last thing will be flushing the anti-freeze out of the lines. I normally don't use anti-freeze in the RV. Last fall the cold weather came so fast I just grabbed the pink stuff and pumped it in the system. I really hate using it. It will still freeze solid but they claim it doesn't expand. Only problem is if there is any water in the line it will expand.

@IBMobile Now those are what I would buy http://www.fixmyblinds.com/1-Metal-Hold-Down-Bracket-12-p/hdb-12.htm

Just clean up and buy a BHAF and be done with it.

This is my 4th pair of clips now going for my 5th pair. I need actually 2 more pairs of clips. Rolled over in bed arm/hand hit the blind bottom rail and broken the clip. The other I turn in my chair and the back corner push on the blind. (snap). Had a friend sleeping on the couch on night same thing rolled over smacked the blinds and pop goes another. I shouldn't have to replace 2-4 clips every spring time.

Fully 190-195*F coolant temp with below freezing outside air.

Hmmm... No comments on the blind clips eh? Crap I guess I'll just take pot luck again...

I see you don't have any hot water in that camper. Nothing wrong with heating water on the cook stove. Starting to come together.

Funny... I know of the guy. I didn't realize that was him down there in that mess. http://www.oregonlive.com/oregon-standoff/2016/02/who_are_remaining_occupiers_se.html

I would love to just play with SCIpod software and a programming cable. Yes, I still got it. Should get ahold of the gent that was doing that and see if we can jump into that project for education purpose. You know who I mean.

I'm going to assume the oil pressure, crank sensor and MAP sensor are all on the same 5 volt. I bet the oil pressure sensor was shorting out the 5V line caused loss of crank signal ans well as the MAP codes. Now the other 2 pin sensors I'm going to assume are on a totally different 5V system because of their nature. The 5V and sense is inside the ECM then bias from sensor ground with resistive sensor. The other system is a separated 5V and sensor set up so I can see thing being different.

Just to show off Nicks handy work say I'm looking for a set of new hood bumpers for my 02 truck. So I would go over to the part number lookup tool and find the part I'm looking for. Now go over to Google and type in the part number plus "dodge ram". https://www.google.com/#q=02276804+dodge+ram Now just quickly checking the reported links. The first one for me had what I was looking for at a god price even. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/DODGE/RAM-1500/BUMPER-Hood/4240073/02276804.html So this should help folks find parts for there trucks even the tougher ones that most part stores might not have.

One to put in the articles. How a bad oil pressure sensor can pull it down.

First off. The only sensors you need to make it run is Crank and Cam. MAP sensor will not prevent starting. So I would be aiming more towards the crank sensor and getting tach signal back. Which you'll need. Crank sensor drives the alternator and lift pump. You can drive it without a MAP sensor to get home in limp mode.