Mopar1973Man

Depends on your mods and driving style. Some folks I've talked to on the phone fight to make 14-16 MPG with a Smarty. Then again we talk all kinds of different mods that might make or break a good MPG tune.

I've never really run one for very long but... (Thanks Bob Wagner!) For all the folks I've worked with attempting to get MPG's up it extremely difficult because of the way the fuel map is designed and there is no smoke control on the Smarty in other words (boost to fuel) adjustments.

Well there is a way to bench test a Smarty...

P1689 code is more of alternator issues than a lift pump. I would test the alternator for excessive AC noise first. Then dive into the P1689 code article and do a bit of bench testing.

Personally, I would say that Smarty is a good way to kill a transmission. Most tunes are fairly aggressive down low which is one of Smarty key features is the down low fueling. I would of done a full module like Edge or Quadzilla. Why? because they are typically the reverse of the Smarty. Both Edge and Quad you can set a bit of defuel or lag to keep the transmission happy. So for the Smarty I would keep it on a very low level, TQ Man stock, fuel duration low, etc.

Stock fuel housing does pull heat from the coolant passage in the take manifold once the coolant is warmed up. As for the fuel heater I can't say one way or another if it's capable of heating or not. I just know at least with all my minus temps I've never gelled once.

Cheap to just fix it with a few of LarryB's contacts and move on.

I'm waiting for the write up on this...

Just KATOOM missed one thing... I'm already using a Southbend Con OFE clutch. Still using the same old stock hydros no aftermarkets. No problems with engagements or leveraging the clutch. So I can understand getting a big dual disc racing clutch and having issues leverage the pressure plate. Most single disc clutches don't require aftermarket htydros. Tow, haul heavy loads, no issues at all. Bench bleeding is a snap. Still even with sealed unit I would still bench bleed again because of possible air issues or mishandling rare but does happen.

Yeah behind a 5.9L V8 with Mopar Performance PCM. Sad thing is I have zero knowledge of transmission work. So where are you located in Washington? Also what is the average cost to rebuild?

160k miles. OE trans just been serviced and had the governor pressure sensor and solenoid replaced.

Dude you are not making feel good. Think it would hold out for one more trip south for 300 mile trip? Guessimate. Need to pick up a driveshaft for my truck.

So the cause is from what?

@Dynamic I've got to ask a question about 46RE trans in my 96 Dodge 1500. What would cause a trans to hang in 2nd gear, drop to like neutral and then jump into 3rd and behave fine from there on out?

Just remember RV275 (+40) injectors are considered stock for a RV/motorhome Cummins ISB chassis. So now +50 HP is only +10 HP over the stock RV ISB engine... Even those engines used HX35W turbos. The only thing that really has changed is the Edge Comp that now give that extra boost of power. This why I really can't see a huge need for a turbo upgrade.

So now that where the concept of the MPG fooler came from because up in the nrothern states the IAT temp can be as cold as the outside air on start up. So after starting the IAT data would cause a VP44 to be highly advanced in timing till the IAT temps fell again. This may or may not happen depending on several things like winter front usage, coolant temperature, cold air intakes, speed of travel, etc. So aggressive timing would produce a heavy knock on the engine. Neat trick is toggling that switch back and forth and listening to the sound of timing and how it affect the engine. Then while doing that watch a live data tool like Scan Gauge II as you toggled between OFF and MPG mode. What you'll see is in OFF (using the actual IAT temp) the timing was heavily advanced. lots of rattling/knock, but MPG typically are about 1-3 MPG lower. Flip to MPG mode which just fools the IAT to believing its summer time and MPG will rise instantly as the knock/rattle leaves. So aggressive timing advancement isn't always a good thing! So now as for the fuel temperature that also plays a role here too. If your missing your fuel heater then colder fuel sensed by the VP44 will also create heavy advancement of timing too. Ask yourself how many times have you see some report a error code P0168 for overheated fuel? Remember the whole design of diesel engines is to create enough heat in the compression stroke to convert the fuel from liquid to vapor to make it go BANG. So the VP44 was the first electronic system to attempt at sensing all these different things and adjust timing anf fuel amount electronically. Not to mention our engines happen to be the lowest compression ratio engine out of the entire series at 16.3:1 (SO) or 17.0:1 (HO) where all other generations are higher. So this why we have a heart passage in the intake manifold to help heat the air entering the cylinder.

Actually, you'll have to arrange that with JAG1 he's the one with the connection for the laser cutter.

Just of point of reference. I'm still stock HX35W turbo, Edge Comp 5x3, and +50HP injectors. No real EGT issues. Pulling up hill 3rd or 4th gears can be rather well... Loose. Even pulling my 31 foot RV I've had times climbing grades where the rear tires will break loose. Power is there in the 25 to about 65 MPH bracket works really good even towing in elevation all the way to 9,000 feet which in the high local point. Even towing on steep road with 16% grades and steep. No isses.

Still at the end of the day I would still use standard ol' NAPA store hydro's and not chase the name brand Valair / Southbend. One thing I'm not impressed with some use stainless lines which attract heat to the fluid. Where the plastic line doesn't. Then people get wrapped up with the adjustment on the name brands when it not required for standard single disc clutch. More or less do it with a KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid). As for bleeding how do you think the seal systems are bled? Same way I bleed mine. @leathermaneod Would you mind creating an article in the article database of the pivot pin removal?

Dang you Dave your going to make me go out and hunt this all down...

Gott pay closer attention... Midwest Injection is the tight one... Now Industrial Injection is a different story... Notice no core issues...\ http://dieselautopower.com/industrial-injection-standard-output-vp44-235hp-0-470-506-027/ Again you get what you pay for. You want cheap expect cheap.

Wire tap just modifies fuel pulse length and possibly modifies when it occurs by adding pulse before time. Most modules use a high priority bit to override the ECM stock tune. Most all timing is handled over the CANBus connector typically.

Differences is the HO is high pressure, lower volume. SO is higher volume with lower pressure. So there is a difference in internal parts in the pump. This is where some of BlueChip's special X and hotrod pumps come from is mixing and match parts from both pumps.

Or go all the way and do a custom VGT...