Mopar1973Man

Article updated thank you...

Not always so. Depends on your working speed. As timing advances so does the torque curve. So if you running highway speeds with 65 MPH to 80 MPH then yes some extra timing is desired. But like myself 45 MPH to 65 MPH is typical for me. So less timing is more desirable because now it brings the torque curve back down into lower RPM's creating power where I need it. Over advancing timing will move torque higher in the RPM range so you have to spin higher yet to make power.

I would contact the shop that did the transmission work. 600 miles it should still be under warranty.

Upper right corner click your username. Menu drops down select "My Settings" The on the left tabs look for Email & Passwords"

It's actually India... There was a article in Daily Mail web site about traffic over there... I had to snag it.

No. The compressor will not start unless there is a at least 35 PSI on the low side. So if the system is empty without pressure then the compressor will not run at all. If you want to insure no damage just unplug the compressor or remove the A/C relay. If it was me I would recharge the system enough to circulate some UV dye. Then start doing your leak checking during the fall season with a black light. Another way to deal with it is buy a o-ring seal kit and spend about 1 hour and change all the o-rings. Some part kits come with the wrong sized o-rings and don't seal properly. (like your evaporator replacement).

More live cameras... http://511.idaho.gov/ Live Boise Camera (Flying Wye) Just 5 miles from home... Live camera

Ain't telling...

Vacuum or fly by wire system? Vacuum you might want to check all vacuum line and the vacuum motor for holes or vacuum leaks.

I'm glad to stick with my standard open differentials.

Fuel in a liquid state will not burn. You can take any fuel you wish and light it up and the flame will burn on top of the vapor. Diesel having a high flash point will normally take longer to reach this state. But since a diesel engine is based on "Autoignition Temperature" then the compression shorts this conversion. Boost pressure make it even shorter. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature The autoignition temperature or kindling point of a substance is the lowest temperature at which it will spontaneously ignite in a normal atmosphere without an external source of ignition, such as a flame or spark. This temperature is required to supply the activation energy needed for combustion. The temperature at which a chemical will ignite decreases as the pressure (boost pressure) or oxygen concentration increases. It is usually applied to a combustible fuel mixture (diesel fuel). But again its about of fine of atomazation you can get. Now if you got crappy injectors that are pissing in the cup of the piston then all bets are off and the efficiency is going to way low.

Also on CR engines they start out stock firing ATDC. I remember AH64ID posting the Smarty table of a stock timing table. Now as for the 24V it only one massive event. The whole efficiency thing is based on getting that liquid fuel converted to vapor in a mere few degrees of crank travel to make it go BOOM! So as people go up injector sizes the atomization isn't as fine as the stock injectors but more fuel is pushed into the cylinder hence why most larger injectors get smoky because the droplets get to large and don't convert in a timely manner.

Correct. 7 Holes and each hole is 0.008 thousandths of a inch.

I missed it even... The problem we are all missing is not a donated member. The option is disabled. Thing is it was a BoD group decision when the site rules and options where made back in Feb. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/471-donations-membership

Yeah he's a Idahoian...

From the fire... Look close at the fire and there are homes... Then a fav...

Here is the article on how to do your own EGR delete on your 6.7L Ram Cummins. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/4th-generation-dodge-cummins/75-engine-system/487-egr-delete

Like myself I'm in the process of adding photos to the 6.7L Delete article I'm producing. Creating a folder and going to upload all the photos. Hmmm... Question do you have any experience using FTP servers? I might have to ask around but I doubt less than about 10% of the members here know anything about FTP servers.

I'm going to say there is going to be a gain but small say about 1-2 MPG. I orignally ditched the air dam off the 1996 Dodge Ram. Now when I reinstalled the airdam again I found a small gain with it. So I would say its worth the effort. But don't expect huge gains.

The upload feature on the forum should accept up to 20 megabytes worth of files per post. As for the article database there is a upload function as well for storing photo, files etc to your articles. Just let me know so I can add a folder for you. This way keeps thing neat and tidy.

I would suggest against the photobucket. It's best to upload all that to the site. That way if photobucket goes down or you just dump photobucket then all the photos are lost. I've lost several good articles to people doing that and now the photos and information are gone.

Make sure to take note of IAT and OAT temps both. Because the difference between the two is the key factor.

Correction. IAT adjust timing. Hotter the temperature the more it retards the colder the more it advances. Fuel amount is controlled directly by your throttle foot. On gasoline engine you attempting to get the air cold enough to keep the fuel from pre-igniting. (Knock). Where with diesel your looking for warmer air to aid in ignition quality of the fuel. More so on colder days.

This is because the turbo super heats the air any ways and the intercooler does more for air cooling than a cold air intake. Also on the 24V engine there is a coolant passage under the manifold heating the air up again. also there is a coolant passage mere inches away from the IAT sensor. The 1/2" pipe plug is a coolant passage. But once again the optimal IAT is 100-140*F... So as the air cools below this range you lose roughly 1 MPG for every 10* drop from this range. This is mostly daily drivers not racing. So yes if your racing you want cold air intakes. Daily drivers you want warmed air (100-140*F range).