Mopar1973Man

Your welcome. Thank you for the kind comments and the donations that keep it going.

It only when installing injectors you want to tighten the connector tube first to center the cross over tube. But being the the tubes are sealed and centered there is no need to mess with the injectors.

Me personally I would of stayed with lead acid batteries. But that's the way for the wiring.

The secret is that loss of prime typically don't leave a wet spot. If the air leak is in a pressure spot it will leak fuel while running. So typically the leak is in a suction spot of the fuel system.

Ok... Power starts out on Fuse 10 in PDC which is a 50 Amp Fuse. Travels a Red wire to the ignition switch. Then from the ignition switch it turns black/white wire heading to the fuse panel in the dash. Then Fuse 8 which is 10 Amp Fuse then travels Red/White wire to the radio. Then for memory... Power start at Fuse 1 in PDC which is a 50 Amp Fuse. Travels Red/Black wire to the fuse panel in the dash. Then Fuse 12 (IOD) which is a 10 Amp Fuse then travels a pink wire to the radio.

There is no reason to add accessories to the battery terminals. There is 2 very capable studs in the PDC. Even all my stuff there is nothing on the batteries.

Head over to BlueChip site and do the hot wire method and see if it starts. If it does then you have a ECM issue of some sort. But if not then you most likely still have a fuel prime issue or VP44 issue.

It took me over 5 years of asking around to get my hands on a damaged VP44 that couldn't be used as a core and it just happen to be Rev 027 as well so it most common version of pump. Now if we could get people in the CR group to pull apart stuff too.

Here is a picture I took today and just fell in love with it turned out awesome. Lost Valley Reservoir...

3.5 hours on R&R a VP44 the labor book calls for 4 hours so I would say not bad. As for the sensor I heard that many have managed to change the sensor with a T handle torx wrench. Or a socket style Torx with a long extension.

Here is the set up I would run on my truck if and when I do it. Cooling coil and the pyrometer all in one piece.

Nice to hear the vendors cut you some slack and get you rolling. Thanks Jacob!

AH64ID at those prices I would have to say your right. For me though with the wider gap I can justify the diesel usage.

Just remember that FASS is much larger pump vs AirDog so the shop will have to be aware of that as well. I've got a local job that's on hold where I got to do a custom install of a FASS 150 system on a 2001 short box. Lets say it will be interesting.

Basically I would start with changing out the cam sensor. Which in this case is the tach sensor for the 2001 to 2002 model trucks. So that explains the tach drop out. But If the sensor doesn't fix the issue I would say its time to ohm test the wiring. Yes a loss a tach signal will put it into limp mode.

Still got all my OEM battery holder bolts and clips yet and no sign of wear.

ECM sends the shutdown signal. As for timing solenoid its a hydraulic valve that send pressure to one side of the piston to advance timing or vent the pressure to retard again the return spring. You can see the 2 solenoid connectors off the PSG. One is timing and one if fuel pin.

More or less they can test for leakage during the test. Or as Dodge calls it measuring the return flow rate. Your right there is no real pump up to pop pressure to make it open being the solenoid and valve is what actually makes it POP off. But spray patterns and internal leaking flow rates can be measured and checked. Which is part of the problem with CR injectors. Yeah the term "POP Testing" might not be correct like Wild & Free says "High Idle" isn't correct either. So lets just say "Injector Testing"...

There are machines to verify performance and more or less pop test the injectors.

Got that whipped it's $2.839 in Riggins, Idaho right now. Gasoline is $3.129... Sucks to be gasser owner now... The 96 dodge is parked under a tree...

There is only 2 solenoids on the VP44. Fuel Solenoid Timing Solenoid The fuel shutoff signal just shuts off the power to the fuel solenoid and it stops running. Excessive timing will make it hard starting. Depends on what the OP's starting pressure is too. If the cranking pressure is between 7-12 PSI which is normal. Above that will create timing issues. The ECM has a 50% duty cycle on the lift pump to reduce fuel pressure this is one reason why we need to keep the ECM control of the lift pump. Now another test would be disconnect the lift pump and see if it starts easy if so then the cranking pressure is too high.

I'm even happier with the idea of taking care of the cables and protecting them from damage in the first place. If you to look at my battery terminal they look nearly factory fresh yet except for the jumper cable gouges. The entire secret is using engine oil and not grease. This way if you work on the engine you don't lean over and get a big gob of grease stuck to your shirt or arm. Engine oil leaves a film that acid can't penetrate.

I'm like yourself. I bought a old school AirDog 150 and no warranty because I was one of the few without a warranty nor the knowledge of the card. So if mine failed today I would be looking to rebuild the exist pump with fresh parts from Pureflow first. Beyond that most are heading over to FASS for replacement pumps. Now as from Eric @ Vulcan Performance he says that the AirDog 100 and AirDog 150 series have improved again. At least from his stand point he's not getting a bunch of warranty calls. All I can say is call and ask him about it.

Personally I like to solder all my connections that way its water and acid tight. Acid can't make its way down into the cord of the cable and rot it out from the inside. Make sure to seal all joints with liquid electrical tape and/or shrink tubing. Makes thing last that much longer.

It can be sensors. Like my last go around was the front right sensor that broke a lead. Little bit of solder work and good as new for now. I know eventually they will fail completely.