Mopar1973Man

CANBUS started with the 2nd Gen's and continue to develop more so later. OBDLink MX has a WiFi series for iPhones. https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/smart-phone/obdlink-mxwf.html This is just a sample of the what I was chasing after to give me the abilities to hack into the CANBUS and read engine data. This will be more of a winter project. Program manual for OBDLink LX https://www.scantool.net/downloads/98/stn1100-frpm.pdf

That's the first time I really looked at the wiring diagram... All I can say is Wow that's a confusing mess.

Basically the same as my OBDLink LX bluetooth dongle. The only I've seen so far is the OBDLink is use a bit more for CANBUS or CDD hacking. In other words lets say you want to take control of different things over the network some have grab stereo controls or lighting controls over the dongle. Both units use the same software basically. Comes back to the ELM327 chip and how much they designed to use of it.

It shifts at about 3,500 on the tach just touching the yellow zone on the tach. Red line If I remember right is 4k.

Problem is that with timing advancement the torque curve move up in RPM so advancing timing makes the power harder to reach during the cold operation forcing to rev higher. Then also the design was advance the timing to hopefully give enough time to convert liquid fuel to vapor to go BOOM. That liquid to vapor process takes longer if the cylinders and the air is colder. Make matters worse the 24V engine is the lowest compression ratio engine of all the engines to date. (SO @ 16.3:1 or HO @ 17.0:1) Even older 12 Valves where 17.5 or better IIRC.

No. It over advances the timing. This why I created the MPG fooler to RETARD the timing and bring it back to normal. When IAT and ECT temps fall the timing is advanced hard and rattling is very obvious. Then just flipping the MPG fooler on the rattle is GONE. It becomes quieter and and MPG's rise about a average of 2 MPG. Now I've got to clarify something. RACING/ HIGH PERFORMANCE Yes. You want to have a cold air intake. This is a must to controlling high EGT's and keeping the turbo discharge temperatures down while in high boost operation. Which will give better timing advancement and push the torque curve higher producing more power. But this is strictly for racing. DAILY DRIVER No. You want to take slightly warm air from under the hood. Being most daily drivers rarely ever hit high boost operations for long periods of time. Now if you trailer towing a lot I would suggest the cold air intake if you running the mountains and towing. But empty daily driver I highly suggest IAT temps of 100-140*F. Because when you retard timing it puts the torque down lower producing the power easier at lower RPM's. Not to mention it does provide the heat needed to quickly ignite the fuel where cold air can't. As you'll see the turbo discharge is high but the intercooler knocks it back down. Now a daily driver with low boost will not produce enough warm to make the engine efficient.

I'm worse yet. Get a fire call start the truck cold and run hard with high boost at 60-65 MPH for about 1 mile and shut down. The fire up the Ford 7.3L diesel and transfer gear from my truck to the fire truck and run the hell out of the Ford (3k RPM) getting to a fire call. So when I do get a chance to hitch up the trailer I'll haul trash or maybe just haul the RV for a gentle pull to build heat then get into and cook the carbon out. Then come back and idle to cool down. As for block heater use year round is fine. It will get to about 110 to 130*F worth of coolant. The element is a 750w heater so its like a space heater running 24/7 non-stop. Winter front will help but if all your travel is stop and go traffic it will take more to warm up. You not producing any EGT's to get temperature built up. 3/6 Cylinder high idle would work better. You could set 3 cylinder high idle and then have it warming up a bit and then leave. But in any case this will cost fuel.

I really do like my new OBDLink LX...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/471-donations-membership

Check this out...

Like my damper does have the alignment tick marks and mine was dead one the money yet. Most failures I see from engines leaking oil out the front seal and the rubber ring gives up.

Was the system flushed before installing the new pump?

Be careful. For every 10*F drop from 100-140*F range of IAT temp there is roughly a 1 MPG loss. This is daily driver numbers and rule of thumb.

I think you have to bring it down to 50kb at like 120 x 160 in size.

Still could be plugged not with oil though.

Some of those Fords have special spark plug boots you can't reuse. Then you have to buy spark plugs from thee Ford dealer because sensitive nature of the ignition systems. So tune up might be expensive but the nice part is that you only do it once every 100k. But that's only if you do it right.

I'm sorry...

Here is the solution to that problem here in my guest house...

Let me back track this you might be falling out of the old system and mixed up in the new donation system basically criss-crossed. (Digging...) Well I did find the database got hung up but clean up the mess. More or less because your leaving the old donation system and entering the new system why the hang up.

Here we go started putting together photos and screen shots. So its basically a plug N play type of thing. The only thing you have to watch is when you do this for the first time you'll need to break the plastic out of the back of the gauge carefully to gain access to the USB port. Then you'll notice I've taken a sharpie marker and dotted the back of the gauge so I never forget the position. The red wire should be on the left. So all plugged in you you'll have... For Linux User you need to have a VirtualBox setup with Windows. In my case I have Windows 7. You'll need to install the software and the USB drivers for the gauge. Once you have the software installed make sure to have the gauge plugged in before starting the software. Basically all I've used is the function to set the warning light. You can set it to come on below a limit or come on above a limit. Just toggle the switch on what you want. The far right warning dial is the one you use for that. Make sure you select the right gauge to since there is a very large list of different gauges you can program. There is the setting for the output driver as well but I don't have it yet. Changing panel lighting brightness to your liking. There there is a Advanced Setting switch that you can change the reaction speed of the gauge too. You can set the gauge for test mode which will cause the needle to sweep full span once you plug the gauge back into your truck. As for plugging and unplugging the gauge I've got a handy pair of long nose pilers that are bent. Awesome for reaching behind the gauge and pulling the plug or getting it restarted on the pins. As you'll see the fuel pressure gauge now lights up because of no fuel pressure. The other gauges are off because they need to cross a high limit.

Wow! Your heavy... Typical empty truck 4440 Front, 3260 Rear, 7700 Total truck weight. Now I've always notice when I scale with the RV trailer on I'm about 40 pounds lighter on the front axle. Which isn't anything big. But with my RV I'm right at 8,800 truck weight.

Not exactly yet... I need to produce a article page on it yet. Then maybe the rent me idea might work...

There should be a setting for the boost it should show correctly on the newer version. My old version 1 show a weird number like 28.6 PSIa then only goes to 37.7 PSIa. But mine does work correctly on other vehicles. As for sea level atmosphere it should be 14.7 PSIa. Here is more on that... http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/air-altitude-pressure-d_462.html As for the P0234 code its not a MAP sensor issue but a wastegate issue. The wastegate is most likely rusted shut. As for the wild swings in temperature I'm going to bet that the face of the radiator is plugged up.

One step beyond Smarty reach... http://www.isspro.com/page.php?page=News http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-11375-isspro-ev2-programmable-output-driver.aspx I like poking at Bill its soooo much fun...

Everything in one little plastic bag.