Mopar1973Man

No double side tape or gluing required. Just tuck it right into the window channel and the glass pinches it into place. It can't be removed with the windows rolled up. You can leave your windows down 1-2 inches and vent the cab all day long. Just lower the windows a little bit and using any vent setting other than MAX A/C will draw air through faster. So like defogging glass turn your DEF on and it will pull more air into the glass. Another is put it on A/C (not MAX A/C) and crack your windows and it will cool the cab off faster.

JAG1 got me WeatherTec for my truck. Then there is Lund Int. is another brand.

More here on Jade Helm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jade_Helm_15_conspiracy_theory

I'm super curious on how that going to work out with expanding the body and get it all welded back together and paint ready.

Not as bad as you think. If I shot a picture from the driver eye angle there width is no different.

This summer maybe... I want to get a new set of banner sticker going for the windshield but I just need time to finish things. Turn down the Edge Comp naw... As for the gauges I took the challenge of the electric gauges to see if I can keep fuel pressure gauges from blowing senders. So far so good and hold good. I've got a design set up with Eric at Vulcan Performance on the sender brackets. So a solution is in the future. Another feature is the gauges are programmable.

http://news.yahoo.com/thousands-bikers-gather-washington-honor-vets-023451819.html

http://www.stevequayle.com/index.php?s=33&d=1429 At the present time Texas is under attack. The Men and Women of the state of Texas have stood up, and spoke out, against the plans (Jade Helm 15) that the military, police and state representatives have in store for them to take their freedoms. Texas had the courage to speak out, now it’s time for the rest of this nation to back them up. I am requesting all prayer warriors, all individuals under the current 40 day fast and all Christians of this nation to take a knee! Pray to our father, JESUS CHRIST OF NAZARETH, and ask that he and GOD’S Angels intercede now, and push back the manmade storms that are being sent to weaken the state of Texas. Pray this in the name of JESUS CHRIST OF NAZERATH. SealMan……..

Do you have gauges? Boost & Pyrometer? Might give us a clue to whats going on. Thinking there is a KSB sensor on the manifold and a valve on the injection pump that open and closes depending on intake temperature. This will effect the timing advancement of the pump. Possible the sensor isn't working right and sticking the valve closed or open and not giving proper timing? That the thing that so tough about older trucks there is nothing to give clues of what failed because there is no computer to report the issue.

Level 1.. I'm running 5x3 on my Edge Comp while towing my RV or daily driving. The only time I turn it down is to gain control on slick ground be it mud or ice. What I'm running for Gauges... ISSPro EV2's. Pretty nice but also pretty pricey...

Consider... They could rebuild it. http://www.kleinbottlecomputer.com/ http://www.kleinbottlecomputer.com/collections/all-services/products/dodge-1 As for dealer I've been informed the dealer is no longer selling new computers everything is re-manufactured.

Like these...

Here you go... Wiring diagram for ya... turn signal wiring.pdf

Try and get the fuel tank above the injection pump for level.

Remember the lower the lo side pressure the colder. But Dodge has lo pressure cut out at about 25-30 PSI so I typically charge to 35-40 PSI so it nowhere near the freezing temps and keeps the system sweating not icing. More freon will make it warmer. Don't get carried away though.

If its a air bubble in the fuel system you should see a dip in the pressure as it passes possibly. Park it nose down to see if it changes.

BHAF could be used but... There is considerable plumbing mods you have to do for a 3rd gen. I would stick yo a deep pleat paper element like what Wild & Free is using for 3rd Gen. BHAF are suggested for 2nd gen body truck because they just fit everything. Just remove the old air box and clamp on BHAF.

Max'ed out on a HX35W turbo is right at 35 PSI. But hard to tell unless you have a exhaust back pressure gauge and a boost pressure gauge hooked up. Then you can see when the choke point occurs. Most claim the Hy35W is max'ed out at 30-32 PSI typically. But like my setup with small +50 HP injectors I'm barely 550-600*F at 60 MPH and running 2-3 PSI of boost tops. Running the RV at 55-60 MPG its more like 700-800*F and about 7-10 PSI boost. So I'm well below all the limits still. Even loaded with the RV and pulling a 6-7% grade in 4th gear (about 2,100 RPM's) I'm right at 1,050-1,100*F EGT's and about 25 PSI of boost cruise set at 55 MPH. As you can see I'm well below all the limits and have no real issues.

Nick... Such a card...

JL Welding made me a set of wrenches and I've got them here for fan clutch replacements.

Be careful... Some of those contain oil charge as well. When mine was leaking years ago I grabbed those shot the can in and was happy after about 5 can you now have a system full of oil and no freon. Can cause serious damage like hydro-locking the compressor or extremely high pressures that can be explosive. Mine was enough that it was capable of squealing the belt and venting oil and freon out the back side of the compressor. So like I said be careful.

Yeah... Auto's are common for having the tiny 9cm2 exhaust housing on the turbo which is a problem in itself. They tend to run hotter EGT's wise because of such small exhaust housing. Then going over 40 PSI of boost need considerations for head studs or o-ringing the head depending on how far above 40 PSI your going. But the weak link for most is the Automatic 47RE transmission.

No rotation... Each piston goes back to its original hole. Kind of like rotating injector shims. Just doesn't work.

Sound like some one need to clean up his cooling system. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/10057-summer-is-about-here/ I typically see 210-215 climbing a grade but nothing more. It could be a fan clutch failing or plugged radiator face (I know you got bugs!). How is the coolant level in the radiator cold? Are you getting coolant from the bottle yet or failed hose? If the line has any pressure at all it will leak out. Even dampen a fitting. So I would power wash everything let it dry and let the truck idle for a period of time looking for the damp fitting.

Even my buddies old 1992 Dodge 1st gen did better than 20 MPG. Sad part is that the injection pump and injectors are very very simple on these truck and something had been changed. Bad part is to set timing isn't easy for home owner because of the special dial indicator that is required. As for injectors it nothing more than a shim to control pop pressure but the nozzle will dictate quality of spray. I wish you were closer to me I'd love to work on this issue and make it right for you...