Mopar1973Man

All gear lubes smell the same either petroleum or synthetics. Yes that a hub seal going bad and will need to be changed. I just got done doing a front seal on a 1984 Kenworth Water Tender for the fire dept. You'll be surprised how little oil is really needed to make a huge mess of the brakes and hardware.

Not meant to be cruel but to drive the point home.

Personally I like Edge Products I've got no issues with them except for the Juice series. There is a old saying "Don't put all your eggs in one basket." This is what the Juice series does so if the module fails you lose the gauges as well. I would suggest that you look at the Edge Comp which is cheaper in price but you required to have your own gauges. But if you rather do the All In One Solution that fine too. The software is the same for the most part between the Edge Comp and the Edge Juice. Now with the Edge Comp it can be removed very quickly for smog testing and no one would know. But Edge Juice is a bit difficult to get rid of being the gauges and module etc to make disappear.Both Comp and Juice are 120 HP modules. Smarty is a OK programmer for your purpose (+60 HP) but you'll still need to have gauges. But the Smarty has the option of 50% power so you'll easily pass smog testing that way. I would suggest for injectors anything between +50HP to 100HP is fine. But smaller is better for economy sake and less smokey. But for smog reasons I would keep you stock injectors or maybe a RV275 (+40 HP) so the smoke is controlled. I will not even suggest a modified injection pump. Hot Rod or Blue Chip Special X will not work with a module they are only for standalone fuel systems. So you best of keeping the stock injection pump for smog reasons.

(Chuckling) Dorkweed if you want to hear drone let me take you down to Fire Station #3 and pull Engine 3 out and go down to the highway and turn around come back. The drone is so bad in that International truck (Detroit Engine) that it like a super deep bass noise ringing through the cab and you can't hear anything on the radio or the person next to you... The drone drowns them completely out. On our trucks its not as bad but it can be very noticeable if your towing heavy trailers and climbing steep grade at lower speeds.

You can see the ceramic block next to the blower motor.

Could be both in this case. I've seen this truck down at Lindy's shop previously for fuel leak issues. But nothing right at this time it was dry and not leaking.

Congrads on the new family...

Sorry there really isn't any pictures to take. There was a hot spot burned in the case from the inside. Right in the brush area of the cap. The drain tube is burned off from the fire. So I pull the starter and the owner has a lifetime warranty with the local NAPA. He's replaced several starters that I know of. Basically I got to repair two wires for aux fuel pump back by the tank (stock carter) and install the new starter.

I was talking rotting the freeze plug (corrosive failure) not racing and blowing the freeze plug (pressure failure) there is a small difference in worlds. Where most daily drivers don't see those kind of RPM's where some one that is a weekend racer might.

Kind of like unscrewing the oil filter and dumping out the oil filter to change oil in the truck.

How else are you going to learn if you don't ask plenty of questions? Like my knowledge on 2nd Gen 24V is very strong but put me in the CR engine I'm all thumbs. Why you see me asking AH64ID and other about CR stuff how else will I learn being I don't own a CR truck.

For also the 2nd gen trucks too. It needed so when owner forgets to change coolant and it rots out the rear plug that can bolt that on to resolve the issue. But if you change coolant and flush the block out on a regular basis there is no need for such a device.

Like I've said before Diesel World is just like the Muscle Car world of the 1960's. We had big block that produced some serious HP/TQ. Then comes the 70's and start of smog equipment. Really basic just like the VP44 and early CR engines. Then Heavy duty stuff came in the 90s for span. Just like the diesels now with Urea, DPF and EGR and all the sensors. Eventually it will settle down and straighten out again. But in the meantime people will buy what every fits their price range.

Still I need to give the owner options so as for delete kit who carry them? As for programmers which one?

That is part of the problem. The pump only hold maybe a pint where the power steering gear box hold nearly a full quart to itself. Then you have the hydro boost with maybe another pint. So just pulling a few ounces out of the pump did nothing for the other quart and a half of fluid.

I'll stop by the owners place and talk to him about it. Still in all he might still want the option of deleting everything.

So this is a dealer flash I'm assuming your talking about?

John its a local rancher that is crawling around the back country slowly tending to cows. I'm unsure of the software on the vehicle. All I can say is the vehicle won't regen till he's running a bit over 100 MPH. No joke. He's been fighting this truck since he's bought it.

Here is write up AH64ID did for common rails... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/53-engine-system/119-power-steering-flush Basically the same but the return hose comes off at the back of the power steering pump. Return lines are easy to spot being they are hose clamped on and pressure screw into the pump.

I've seen one case of that on my truck but after changing the fluid out the problem was gone. I'm due to flush mine out right now just need the time to do it.

From my experiences a size of pipe goes up the drone changes when its going to occur in RPM's. Even with 4" exhaust on 24V it seem more common for drone issue than the 3" did. I know 3" is not a option for you but just looking at noise issues. Now there is a few that changed drone by band clamping T post to the pipe. Another way is where in the pipe the muffler is at closer to the or rear will change this as well. But again kits don't give you much choice for placement.

Its a 2008 Dodge.

Vacuum connector is near the throttle pedal and you should be able to do some back testing. Might be debris jamming the doors. Possibly a bad vacuum line most of the vacuum stuff is near the throttle pedal the other is the fresh air door against the passenger kick panel.

Thanx... I'm on the left and MoparMom is on the right.

What Nick attempting to do is allow it to branch naturally and see where it goes more or less. Then there could be a stand alone and maybe something a bit more. It working more or less like open source coding for Linux. Every is welcome to take the design and modify it how they see fit and see where it goes.