Mopar1973Man

Finally this last storm has dropped a bunch of snow finally. I was starting to wonder if I was going to have a green lawn all winter. The little 1996 Dodge is doing just fine! Chains are for sissies!

I was called to a house fire last night in Riggins, Idaho. This one is rather odd. The owner just bought the house just a few weeks ago and also just after the purchase of house he installed a brand new energy efficient wood stove. The last night went over to stoke up the fire and when he opened the stove door the stove back drafted on him. When this occur it burned the home owner from the flash of fire also it ejected other flaming material out into the room. All I can say is the house is a complete loss. The theory on cause is possibly using un-cured wood that is way too wet. Or... Improper operation of the stove choking it down really low to save wood. Please people be careful with heating appliances...

Could I get you to post this in the article database for me? (Please!)

Just to verify...

Timbo's APPS doesn't have a voltage to set. You can mount it and do a APPS reset be good to go. The adjustment process only for taking slack out other than that it has no bearing on the performance of the Timbo's APPS sensor. As for diagnostics for the rough idle and dies. What is your fuel pressure at idle and WOT at highway speeds. Any error codes present? Check with OBDII reader.

Just for the sake of it here is the CCD network wiring again. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

Maybe 10-12 miles. I live in the wild country as you put it.

I'm pretty sure that is a oil gallery. The stock sender is mounted on that side too. But I think you going to run into issue with the rust threads.

Might of taken too much Florida salt?

Diesel require 2 things to run. 1. Compression 2. Fuel So working on the fuel side. Does the Wait To Start come on instantly? Do you have fuel pressure from the lift pump? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? How about any error codes?

Thanks Hotboater for jumping on the forum. I suggested that he try Yankneck's idea of cycling all plugs 3 times with di-electric grease to hopeful recover the connection some where. Seems odd that the OBDII port is still bringing data to devices from the device that have problems? But then the cluster is non-functional. Help me out guys.

LOL. You should see my neighbors then. They just cut down a tree about one month ago, left the rounds laying in the weather. Then go out spit and haul to the house as needed. My wood is typically split and stack in early spring in the wood shed so all summer long the summer heat is drying my wood. Now the left over wood in the yard now is no going to be burned till next year. But there is a difference out here the soft wood dry really fast. I've fell trees and loaded then on the trailer and hauled them home. Just from the summer heat the wood is splitting open in less than 24 hours its got cracks in it. Local trick is if you can hit a piece of a wood with a splitting maul and it pop the piece right off with a easy hit then the wood is good in dry. But if you need a sledge hammer 2 splitting wedges and pull the pieces apart the wood is still too wet. Even with a wood splitter if the wood is wet you'll see the water squeeze out or the wood is stringy. Now the few bits of hard wood (Birch, Apple, Cherry, and Apsen) I've gotten yeah I will agree it takes a long time to season that stuff. Mostly why I tend to chase the soft wood. I only fall dead and dry trees. I really do hate to load up wet anything because you get less of a load. 3 foot x 16" slice of spruce looks heavy but when I harvest it its rather lighter than you think because its dry. Here is my last load of 2014...

Aren't you lucky. I've already burned 2.5 cords already. As for my chimney it was swept out at the beginning of the season and like usual it was a mound of black chunky creosote. It typically takes the shop vacuum and suck it out of the wall. Even though I run the pyrometer all the way to 1,600*F with a roaring fire, pipe tinkling, popping noises in the pipe, etc. But still in all plenty of creosote. I bet its the wood we burn out here vs. the hard wood you burn.

Might toss it up on the Classified section for others to see.

Come to Idaho. I can walk across the highway go fishing in the the River and have dinner in a few hours. Fresh Idaho trout.

Rancherman you have to remember back in the day oil was different. Being I work at the local shop you should see some of the newer oils now like the 5w-20 that stuff is so thin its like water. Nothing like the straight grade 30 of back in the 1970's.

The leak will not be external you can see but typically internal in the head where you can't see. So at idle it might only weep but under full throttle it might be spraying in the return rail where the crossover tube meets the injector.

... and it goes over 80k miles a oil change. Note: you have to still change filters at 7k miles. Ask Dorkweed on the details. 2002 Interval diesel (11 quarts) 1996 Interval gasoline (6 quarts)

With all the LEAD, OCTANE, and other goodies that made muscle car fast back in the day.

December 25, 2014 - Mileage 238,730 Spray painted the main frame rail flat black. Spray painted the exhaust pipe with 2000*F paint also the color is flat black. This was done to prevent major rusting issues from occurring. There was small bits of surface rust but nothing serious.

Or... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/154-cummins-performance-parts/

Correct... Battery Temp sensor Outside Air Temperature

Only works if you kill the alternator as well. So both the fuse and the field lead must be pulled.

Seem you did it backwards. You should be tightening the cross over tubes first then the injector caps. Common mistake.