Mopar1973Man

More info. I gather its something I gotta build? What do I buy? Where do I buy the stuff? What's it cost?

There is a write up for the starter contacts. As for doing starter brushes LarryB has a full rebuild kit for cheap.

The only thing I can think of is engine oil. Nothing else near it.

Still want more information... I'm looking for something like that to tap the CANBUS and/or CCD network and get more information. Could I produce somthing like this for the 24V? Seriously I'll toss my ScanGauge in a heartbeat if I could...

More information wanted. What are you using... Homemade? I want to know...

Here is one article I just remembered... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/450-valve-seal-spring-valve-replacement-24v-head

Apparently the oil is getting push past the seal into the pump if the power steering fluid is black with engine oil. I've never really paid attention to the seal placement is it riding on the input shaft or what... But some how your getting oil into the power steering. Unless the power steering system is that contaminated. Still scratching my head.

Just little things I've done has extended the life span of the front end. Like power steering flushing, adjustment of the gear box, using a grease needle and injecting grease in the joints without zerks, tire pressures, size smaller tires, etc. 242k miles now and only replaced the ball joints and the track bar. Not bad. JAG1 you'll see when you get down here.

Get this tool. Then just run TDC and remove the springs... Then change your valve seals.

Sounds like the engine oil is getting into the power steering through the front seal of the power steering pump. Sounds like you might be due for a pump change. I would flush the system out before you hook up the return lines to be sure to flush the engine oil back out.

Ever since you mentioned the lower pressures you run in the front axles I decided to tweak with mine a bit and adjust a few things like sector adjustment on the steering gear box now. This is the best the truck has ran from steering now. It very stable and tracks well now with no sawing action now. So I wanted to say "Thank You" to Wild & Free because my truck is very enjoyable to drive now and doesn’t require all those crazy mods like steering box brace or 3rd gen track bar. All factory front end parts!

Don't discount the aluminium canopies. Mine barely weights 90 pounds and I can lift it on and off by myself. The bad thing to aluminium is the frames are very weak and topper don't last long. Mines about 6 years old and the rear frame is broke. The problem why is the offroad environment kills the frame with too much flexing.

What's your fuel pressure during cranking? This will give a clue if there is air in the lines or not. Is there any external fuel leaking around the head? Injection lines or the return lines? Remember the return is at the back of the and can only be seen from under the truck. Suction leak? You'll need 2 people and pressurize the fuel tank after running. This will force fuel out a fuel line with a suction leak because now the lines are all load with fuel.

What you can do next go around. Do the reset password again and when you get the email copy and paste the password to a notepad. Then when you get logged in again you can copy and paste from notepad to change to what you want then. Sad thing is I can't see passwords even as a Admin. Scary part is most of my passwords are 64 characters long. I use a program called KeePassX to store all my passwords. For example one of my generated passwords. X=1W.!]OHtKGX7WuikGny>*KCo0i[wC#/&qHqNtj5MG=V0AWUQ;Z./Gv<={.\&l

Really nice!

Very good video. Worth keeping!

I cheated I upgrade fog / driving lights instead. Even my 96 got upgraded.

It amazing the amount of time and effort that has to go into a web site to make it work. You might want to call me and we'll talk about it more.

Just the threads. I just talked to Ed on the phone and he told me about it. So if you worried about boost leaks you can put a coating of silicone on the threads.

I used Black RTV for my setup. How about you Ed?

Correction to Ed's post. It 3,5,6 lines which is the rear set. Where 1,2,4 is the front set.

March 3, 2015 - Mileage 241,500 6 New cross over tubes installed - Vulcan Performance March 14, 2015 - Mileage 241,747 New intake plenum gasket and grid heater gaskets installed - NAPA (FPG MS95087) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9792-intake-manifold-gaskets/ http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Manifold-Gasket-Set-Intake-/_/R-FPBMS95087_0147256546

Wow! $30 bucks for a needle valve? I'll keep that under my hat for future use. Thanx for sourcing out a cheaper solution!

I just carefully picked up the larger pieces and the small one yeah you can just vacuum out.

It was time to fix some of my minor boost leaks and whistling sounds coming from the old manifold gaskets. So since Lindy wasn't busy and the gasket where their at work why not? So I got a nice dry spot to work inside and all the tools I could ever want. So I will tell you that you want to remove all the injector lines. The fuel filter has to come off (if you still have the stock fuel filter). APPS sensor has to be removed and the intake horn and grid heater of course. Take a nice sharp puddy knife and start scrapping off the old gasket. It will be baked on so take your time. Then once cleaned up I put a very fine layer of black silicone on both sides of the gasket. Re-install the plenum. At that point its just a matter of re-assembly just the way you pull it apart. What I did was place all my bolt back in there holes but as I started installing injection lines just lift out the ones that hold something. Then replace them.