Mopar1973Man

Assuming the RV is plugged into 120VAC as well. The RV converter might be bad and boiling your batteries out. Double check the function of the RV converter.

I would clean the condenser really good with simple green and a high pressure washer. Do this several times. You be surprised of how much bugs and junk get pack in. How the fins are they all bent up? Straighten them out if so. Fan clutch only comes into effect when the coolant temp rises over 210*F then it locks up. Beyond that it should be free spooling. I'm curious what pressures your seeing? (Lo and Hi) Your 90+ temps down in Texas are just as much as our 105-115*F here in Riggins, ID. But I still can hold a consistent 40*F at idle in 100+ heat.

Like I try to inform people is the whole design of ATF has changed from 1970's to today. They are not even close in design any longer. So yes back in the 1970's it was fine to to add ATF to the fuel or to a filter. Today ATF is so different it doesn't burn correctly. Then "We've always done it that way" phrase... I really get wound up too over that. Just because back in the old days it was common to do things doesn't mean that today's engine will tolerate that. Like using ether, ATF, all kinds of "We've always done it that way". It will come back to bite you eventually.

Congrads. Those are some pretty big shoes your putting on.

Yankneck696 would be a good one to talk to about those vehicles.

Rancherman what are you doing? I don't have half the problems you do? I hitch up the 20 ton splitter to the ATV driver over to the wood pile. Fire up the wood splitter and proceed to split wood. If the rounds are to heavy to lift no problem put the splitter in vertical mode and driver the splitter to the round. Sit down and spit it up. Getting wood in your eyes? You really got me baffled with that one.

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tire-selector/size/285/70/17/OE/BNW/all-terrain-t-a-ko/tire-details#techspecs Something is weird here how can a Load Range D be the same weight class of a Load Range E???

Might be the speed rating.

That's the problem we have here now. With a wood burning stove you have to be at home to keep the house warm. So during the day when I take off for work MoparMom can tend the fire rather easy. But now if we want to leave for Boise for a day or over night that's a problem because there is no other form of heat really. So during the winter time we are confined to the house for the most part. Would be nice to have a thermostat and walk away. But we don't so there is the downside to wood burning as a primary heat. I'm sure I could buy a few oil radiator heaters and place them around the house but that might get expensive fast. I'm sure the inverter won't like that long. With how mild the weather this winter I'm going to be way ahead on firewood too. I'm out splitting up wood last few days being the weather is warm and dry so get the last few rounds split up and stacked. I'm attempting to clean up the wood splitting area.

Funny part after pulling apart a VP44 the mechanical part is really easy to rebuild its just the calibration that is the hang up.

I would gladly upgrade if there was a upgrade turbo that accepted the Jacobs Exhaust brake on the back.

This is why relocation of the wiring or wrapping with tin foil won't work. The wiring would have to be like a CB coax that has a shielded jacket with reference to ground. So any AC production can be absorbed into any wire or circuit. Hence why BD noise filter works to filter the power into the PCM but leaves the rest of the electric system to fry from AC noise.

Just out of burning want to know. I called my local tire guy in Ontario, OR and talked to him about the whole BB idea. He typically sells silicone beads for this purpose. But never had a complaint about balance issue. I asked him about steel BB used in air rifles and he didn't see a reason why it wouldn't work. Just measure out the proper amount and add them to the tire. So I'm going to see about getting some BB's and going that route.

I've seen a few people make use of a window in a RV for a pellet stove. If your using insulated pipe build a filler board for the window gap then you could have a pellet stove in your RV fairly easy.

Some how I see getting firewood the old fashion way cheaper. Seem like a lot of work and fuel to do this but really when I look at how much really its fairly cheap. So now with the BigTex trailer if I make 5 trips to the forest I've got 10 cords of wood. I can make two trips in one day if I push so say 5 days worth of harvesting. Maybe at the worst 1 to 1.5 tanks of diesel depending on how far I want to go. Wood can be split by hand or by machine. I might use 1 gallon of gasoline for 4-5 cords of splitting. Bonus is the wood stove doesn't require any power to operate and will produce heat regardless. Also wood stove will burn anything you can fit in the door of the stove and has no requirement of a particular pellet. I can burn wood, paper, cardboard, and many other things in a wood stove. So I see my wood stove as a privacy measure were I can burn sensitive documents. I can cook from the top of it. Dispose of organic waste (paper, cardboard, etc.) instead of filling a dumpster 5 miles away. I would love to have the thermostat luxury of AH64ID. But that's just not a function of a wood stove.

No cap at all. Just straight pipe to the top of the brick liner.

Trust me... If I find any secrets I will gladly post all of right here.

You'd figure after 16 years someone would of fixed these mysteries. But why invest in a obsolete technology since common rail came out. As for pressures the vane pump goes directly to the rotor in those ports IIRC. As for the body of the pump its at fuel pressure level. So that would be you middle pressure from the vane to the rotor head.

Another thought on this just past... Now take notice the 3 ports are screens assume the screen are plugged up with debris. Then place a vacuum on the chamber. Now could you see the plastic flexing downward into the chamber till it broke or cracked on the center hub.

I think I found the answer on this. While taking my morning shower I was thinking about that plastic backing. We all assume there is pressure there because most of us use a fuel pressure gauge. Let's assume the owner doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge and a bad fuel filter. Now the only time that plastic will flex is under a VACUUM. The plastic is not glued to the steel. So if there is a vacuum present it would pull the hub inwards and crush against the inner o-ring till it deformed and cracked. Sound about right?

That's what I don't understand that disc is on the back of the rotor assembly. It has no connection with timing piston. Maybe hydraulic it might be connect dumping the pressure back in the body of the pump. I'd have to pull my pump off the shelf and pull it apart again. But the steel plate is held in by 1 snap ring and has 2 o-ring seals. The plastic can't flex with steel backing it. Like photo above I wonder about the crack like it was force or pried again from the center hub. Improper assembly? Because if you got a steel disc backing the plastic there is no way to flex the plastic. But being the crack is larger at the center hole going to the outer diameter this seem to me from prying out.

I'll have to ask the local propane guy what the prices are some time.

Another thing you can do is contact the store owner and find out what the specs of the fuel are. It's a Hazardous Material there should be a specification of pour point, cloud point for most fuels. Just most people don't give a rats about these numbers. Strange though I found some places in Idaho that do post the numbers up. Being that most fuel are blend when loading the truck some much know what the pour point and cloud points and and should have a receipt of the shipment.

If you need a boost in cloud point add a product but don't get mindless and continue to add the product to long or too much. Make sure measure out what your doing. Cetane is a good thing for dead cold starts. But once the engine is running high cetane in no longer needed. More a less a trade off easier starting higher cetane. Better MPG's lower cetane.

Outer plastic? Majority of it a steel disc. You can see my damage from prying it out.