Mopar1973Man

Nope. Below 1200 RPMs the ECM is in control. Quadzilla is only monitoring the CANBus, till RPMs rise.

Well you have to consider the rotational mass, that will still pull the MPG down. For every 1 pound of rotational mass you get rid of that is equal to removing 8 pounds off the frame. So small and lighter tires provide better results over trying to keep oversized tires which adds to that rotational mass. Back several years I compared 235/85 R16 to a 265/75 R16 which are both 31 inch tires but ditching the width of the tire I was ditching the steel belt and was almost 25 pounds lighter on the 235's. Now I dropped to the 245/75 R16 which adds 10mm of steel belt back but being its a 30 inch tire I gained more torque to the ground. I could swap to 215/85 R16 which is still a 30 inch tire but it would a bit too skinny for off road use up here in the snow. 3.69 final ratio It will produce 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH. This is excellent being you dead middle of the torque curve and the engine isn't lugging. Anything below about 1,600 to 1,800 is going to be to low in RPMs and the timing will retarded to long so the MPG's a lower. I'm running 21 degrees at 2,000 RPM's and hitting 28 MPG. Consider looking at racing tires and how light they are. This is because the rational mass. Anyone racing wants the power to the ground. Wide offroad tires are not efficient at all. Way too heavy. Personal note. My last truck was a 1972 Dodge Power Wagon that I destroyed the front axle trying to do lift kits and big wide tires and started snapping wheel joints, bearings weren't lasting long, and it was nearly every month I was fixing the front axle from the tires I put on and traded the truck in for the Cummins. I never did any oversized tires or lifts and never had any of the issues everyone talks about. Ball joints last forever, tie rods lasted very long time, no death wobble ever.

This was the big problem with the Raptors people learn later on about what they missed with buying a Raptor. Now they try to reinvent the pump and get a return line and external regulator. The only thing you'll miss is the air separation which is a straw that goes to the bottom of the filter so the air floats to the top and sent out on the return line. Now doing custom installs like the last one I did I love when I ditch the instructions and do it my own way it turns out much better. That white Dodge the owner was super impressed with the setup and how the lines all go inside the frame and protected from debris strikes. Yeah I'm going to build a filter cover when the truck comes back after my road trip to Pigeon Forge, TN.

Well spot welds should hold but only time will tell. Unless you feel comfortable doing so light welding on the edge of the straps to guarantee it holds.

Gotcha covered... Yes I've torn apart a few AirDog's and Raptor's and even Carter stock lift pumps to see how they work. The Raptors are hung up on the returning to the inlet of the pump so the fuel starts to cavitation and then sends the bubbles through the pump so that why the pressure stability issues with non-returning pumps. The Raptors also have issues with the adjustable regulators the springs tend to hang up and stick which doesn't help either.

Funny... I just happen to have a extra steering column laying in the shop but I would have to check and see if it would work for you. It only takes about an hour to swap the steering column out. Later on today when I'm cleaning up the shop I can flip it over and look down in there and see if I can get a photo of anything.

Keep me posted...

Watch the timing close and then listen if the rattle gets too loud you might be getting negative torque. About 21 to 22 degrees at 2k RPMs is about as fair as you can reach. But this is based on the cetane of the fuel. Lower cetane can take the extra timing. If your using any cetane booster you have to retard because the inherit advancement that cetane boosters give. Be aware that higher cetane has lower BTU's. Lower cetane is best being it has the most energy. As for engine load if your going the right way the engine load will get lower. If its rising then you going the wrong way in timing.

No not on a return line from the regulator being if the filter plugs up then the pressure will rise. This is why a AirDog is the blow off of the regulator heading to the tank. The best part the filter is a AHEAD of the regulator and all fuel is filtered before returning.

Actually Allison transmission you'll need 4.10 gears being I'm working with one current trying to build a tune and his cruising RPMs are too low. Then getting the proper tire size for the Allison OD is too tall.

One of few points I like about AirDog. Not churned over and over. Every pass its filtered more each time it returns to the tank. Unlike stock or Raptor pumps they do churn the fuel over and over and cause cavitation.

285/75 R16 is 3.42 final ratio. Just 1 tires size up will make issues. Higher EGTs, lower MPGs, lower torque, shorter transmission life span, front end and steering issues including death wobble. Stock tire size 265/75 R16 at 3.55 Just one tire size down 245/75 R16 will net you 3.69 with gains. Lower EGTs, more torque, better acceleration, better MPGs, etc. That's big part how I crossed the entire state of Washington for only a quarter tank.

Neither do I. typically below 130*F even with 100*F weather.

Not bad. The only weakness is the Edge EZ. EZ is just a stacking box that stack extra timing on top of the stock ECM tune. 100 HP needs different timing map to be optimal. 150 HP injectors I'm 550°F at 66 MPH @ 2,000 RPM. 2 to 3 PSI of boost. Optimal final ratio is near 3.73. From what you posted I pretty sure your running 31 inch tires, drop to 30 inch tires and MPG rise and EGTs fall. 265/75 R16 to 245/75 R16 is that change which produces 3.69 for a final ratio. Just tidbits to get you better numbers.

First off don't mix cetane boosters like standyne and 2 cycle oil pick one. Should know that 2 cycle oil is a injector cleaner, cetane REDUCER. This adds more BTUs to the fuel.

Beast is next for the shop. Hydrobooster, and other things before I roll for Pigeon Forge.

Most likely picking up hot return fuel from the sender?

Too bad I couldn't pull in with you. I'd take a week off. But hey I'll be in Pigeon Forge soon.

4 ways to kill a VP44. 1. Fuel lubricity >460 HFRR will cause damage. 2. AC noise from the alternator will fry the PSG on the VP44. 3. Fuel filtration is poor it will cause damage 3um filters suggested. 4. Fuel pressure below 14 PSI can cause damage no more than 20 PSI this can blow the front seal out.

California government is broken so is their school system. Out here very few kids go to school because most are home schooled. Families don't want the woke policies.

All 98.5 to 2002 are setup with 190°F not 180°F. 12V Cummins are setup with 180°F. Hotter thermostats are suggested for better thermal efficiency. Heat is attracted to cold so cooler thermostats will net less MPG and less power because percentage of the explosion is dumped back in the coolant. Hotter thermostats don't dump as much energy into the coolant jacket. Did you know there is a 200*F thermostat for the 6.7L that does fit our 2nd Gen 24V. Yup I've got a 200*F thermostat in the shop for winter time. Warmer IAT, better MPG, and better performance in cold. Typically my truck runs right at about 195*F to 197*F in coolant temp. Towing it could go as high as 225*F depending on how close or past 1,200*F EGT's. Typically a 7% grade with my RV I only see maybe 1,000*F to 1,100*F.

I'm sorry but nothing electrical will cause grinding. I would check the trans selector make sure it making it into park completely.

Really simple just randomly stuff wires together. Look at the photos you'll see the factory plug is stuffed with blade crimps.

My local NAPA sells the Stant style thermostats not the Robertshaw like Cummins. As I lookup right off my Prolink. As you can see my wholesale price to because I'm a vendor as well. Never had a NAPA thermostat fail.

@Honey Badger brought her truck down. The A/C and heater blower performance was poor. So i broke out the bore scope and fed it into the evaporator to see if it was plugged with debris. I started checking the blower rotation it was wired backwards. Once I put the black to the black/tan and green to the blue/yellow it has awesome blower performance. A/C is nice and cold and blows air strong out the vents. Zero cost, no parts, just fix someone's crappy wiring.