Mopar1973Man

Hey Gang... I was talking to the state highway guys this morning when they pulled in. I've been informed that this year in Idaho they are suppose to increase the salt and mag-chloride usage this winter. So he was giving us a heads up to keep our trucks wash and rinse off frequently. I figure I'd pass this along to the Idaho members.

Using any injector cleaners or cetane boosters too? I know you using 2 cycle oil but a lot of people love to play mad scientist and mix things with the 2 cycle oil.

Russ you are not making me feel good. My deck is sealed with Boiled Linseed Oil and Mineral Spirits.

1. Fuel pressure 2. Pyrometer 3. Boost Pressure 4. Transmission Temperature The four gauges in order of importance. Even a stock stock can have some really wild EGT's while towing I suggest you think about get a gauge set soon.

Here is Dodge FSM specs. The only thing you gain by lower pop pressure is timing and spray quality degrades as pressure is reduced. Also sooner the boost pressure can flood the fuel system on a deceleration. Just like tractor pullers they get to the end of the track and gotta tap the throttle a few time to keep if from dying out. This is to push the air bubbles back out of the injectors. Higher the pressure the later in timing but better the quality of the spray and atomization equals better efficiency.

I had mine done at a shop for free. What happen I went to my favorite tire shop had a set of front wheel bearing installed. When I went out to get the truck the driver side leaking gear lube. So the manager of the store which I know very well took care of the issue instantly and setup a appointment with a shop in Ontario, OR to replace both front axle seals. Some day I'll have to contend with the 1996 Dodge Ram leaking.

This last spring I got MoparMom to toss out all the old paint she had stored in the basement and in the garage. I found one paint can getting ready to fail in the bottom (rusting). This was all housing paint (interior / exterior) so it wouldn't of been as bad but still a mess.

Diesel4life is right to a respect being if we where all playing with bone stock trucks (235/460 at flywheel or 245/505 at the flywheel). Then you would have a way different playing field, where my truck would spend most of its time in 3rd gear pulling grades. I will admit it would be nice to have a 6 speed in the mountain pulling really heavy 5th wheel like Hex0rz because of the shear weight and mass of that beast. I will admit also the 3rd to 4th jump on a 5 speed give very little room for crossing form gear to gear. Where yes on a 6 speed it would be easier with 3rd and 4th overlapped. But the fact remain flat running of either the 5 or 6 speed transmission isn't going to change a huge amount being the final ratios are so close on there last two gears. But if I was to be a CajFlynn hotshotter and towing day in and out I would look at a 6 speed hard core. But recreational towing like RV's or toy trailer I'd be still opting for the 5 speed. I always love being stab with a stick...

Try Goose Creek grade from New Meadows to McCall (7% grade). Last trip up that I still had zero problems. 4th gear all the way up towing the RV. Very rarely have I touched 3rd gear. Whitebird grade again 7% grade pull in 4th gear no sweat. Lewiston ID grade another 7% grade pull it again in 4th gear. https://goo.gl/maps/C9oQa Here is going down Goose Creek. Tow this up Goose creek in 4th also easy as pie! Close to 7,000# worth of trailer if not more...

Thinking about it again We could just add to the existing contact page full of vendors and dealers. Maybe make a page for repair shops as well and add more on the article database this way there isn't four tons of pages of personal comments, flaming, etc. But I don't see a rating system for the contact listing.

Sound like a great idea. But on the forum it would be rather difficult to make it searchable and fine rating you want. More or less could use the thread rating for each one. As for the bashing I had a problem years ago about a trans company that was getting bashed here by a member. The big problem is the URL for the page bashing this company show up BEFORE the company link on Yahoo. No kidding. So any one doing a search for this company found my link to the bashing page before the actual company page. So I got a phone call from the owner asking to remove the search enter which I did it took about 7-9 days for Yahoo.com to clear that URL from the search engine. As for the original post I has to edit the company name so it wouldn't be picked back up.

Riggins, ID is a desert area of Idaho only 1,800 feet of elevation typical summer temps of 100-115*F and winter temps as low as 0*F I've seen. Approximately 12-13 miles to work from home. As for the Willys its done! Replace the head gasket, a little bit of tune work and it spins over like a top. Idles really smooth and travels along the high at a nice 55-60 MPH at 3,300 RPM's.

No problems here do all my mountain driving in 4th never need 3rd. All my flat travel in 5th gear.

Well firewood I might of been pushing a few time rather heavy. As for the RV I'm right at my GVWR but still below my axles rates. Still below my trailer rated specs, Still below my combine weight. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/27-2000-jayco-eagle-296-fbs About twice a year I check my weights. I don't want to be like all the people I get called out to fix RV springs, or lost a wheel because snapped all the studs off.

Just remember the final ratio isn't any different. 6 speed - 0.73:1 (6th gear) 5 speed - 0.75:1 (5th gear) 6 Speed - 1:1 (5th Gear) 5 Speed - 1:1 (4th Gear)

I do that once a month I top off with distilled water and then do a equalize charge to the batteries to stir the distilled water into the batteries.

Like I learned from the RV275's I got from CajFlynn. Just because they all popped about 290-295 bar (little low) still good to go. By the next year they had dropped off to 240 bar on the lowest injector. When they where inspection in Lewiston, ID there was shims that where wore down, pintles where seated deeper in the nozzle from wear. So now between the shim wear and the nozzle wear will give that slack for change in pop pressure. Now even with new nozzles if the shims are worn your still going to be off in pressure. So more or less you got a fresh tip but the rest of it worn and might not match perfectly (305-310 bar).

From small changes is length of the pintle needle and/or seat depth. Maybe the owners shims are already worn too. That why there is different sized shims for tuning the pop pressure so that all injectors are evenly match in pressures. It's always being suggest in pop testing all injectors after nozzle install.

Sensors... If its front sensor you must replace both as a matched set. Rear sensor the speedometer will act weird or not work at all. G101 - Left Fender Side Shield

Once your done changing nozzles now you got to send all six injectors out and and have them pop tested. You can't just change nozzles without having them re-pop tested. Usually make nozzle sets higher in price once you figure in pop testing and tuning. Locally its $15 a injector to be tuned.

CajFlynn is on Facebook quite regular. Still hauling boats... https://www.facebook.com/FlynnMarineTransport

Here is the spec book for it... Not much difference between 2500 and the 3500 series for load capacities...

Well I can't answer how to get at it really my AirDog is not on the frame. But yes it's in the return line just take the fitting out of the pump and the spring and ball are just inside the housing of the pump. Mine is the forward fitting on the rail side. I typically use a 3/4" wrench remove the JIC elbow and then a deep well socket remove the fitting.

Too good of a article to loose. Pinned to the top! Thanks for the wonderful write up I'll soon have you place it over in the article database.

Out here anti-seize is your friend. I use anti-seize on just about all hardware under a truck at work and at home. As for removal I would do like MoparTech said drill the head out till they let go. I'm pretty sure most hardware stores have those kinds of screws/bolts.