Mopar1973Man

Take your spring and slightly egg shape the last coil the ball is going to sit on. Then the very tip say 1/8 of the bend in a 90* angle inwards to the coil so the ball can't wedge down into the coils.

I tend to agree with AH64ID about the gearing. It would really wake up any rig changing from 3.55 to 4.10 gears in the axle(s). Now ol' CajFlynn has been using 3.73 gears for towing and enjoyed them for the life of his 2001 Dodge till it finally gave it last breathe at 1.3 million. (Vehicle accident)

Remove the slave cylinder before installing the transmission again. This will allow for the fork to stay back to the housing while installing the input shaft. As for your pictures there is a lot of oil around the clutch.

That's a big slice of pie right there. Dodge Cummins will around for a long time kind of like the 60's and 70's muscle cars. I think this is the playground our trucks are now heading towards and why the prices are still high. Heck all the trucks you see now are barely 150-250k miles on the clock anyone that knows a 1st or 2nd Gen is barely getting started in life. The big problem is trying to find a truck body and interior that isn't ate to hell and back.

I can tell you Hex0rz has a huge 5th wheel. Thing is most people tend to forget about axle weight and vehicle design weight. Like Hex0rz is most likely over his rear axle weight limit (can't remember). Then most all Dodge Truck of the 2nd Gen realm are designed for about 13,400 pounds of trailer even the 1 ton's are the same weight.

Stock lift pump ground is behind the starter bolted to the block. The Raptor ground can be tied to the battery but I typically use a body ground instead.

I've got to lube mine in the future when I get time to work on it...

I'm a 31' travel trailer I'm scaled at 8,020 pounds fully loaded with water and all. GVW 8,500# http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/27-2000-jayco-eagle-296-fbs

Time to consider doing all the crossover tube o-rings and doubles checking all the sealing washer on the return lines at VP44 and return rail at the rear of the head. Then there is 3 square cut o-rings on the return tee that might be leaking.

I typically would only disconnect one cable, clean and re-hook up. That way I don't wipe out the customers radio presets and clock on the stereo. But if you take care of the terminal correctly you'll never have to remove the cable expect to replace the batteries. Like myself I never had to clean my terminals yet to this day and they never corrode. All I do is light coat with fresh engine oil and even look back.

Either you have a vacuum motor under the battery or you don't. The APPS sensor on a fly by wire only has one cable the throttle from the pedal that's it.

Yeah... Mine is a manual and all fly-by-wire so there is no vacuum motor. All my steering wheel controls seem to be working just fine. Accelerate, coast, cancel, on/off and set. I was playing with the controls while driving to try and diagnose but all of the controls work. Once again no vacuum motor and not a automatic transmission... I'm a manual with fly-by-wire cruise control.

I just remembered I had a weird thing happen and can't explain nor has it occured again. While I was towing my traveel trailer this last trip I had my cruise set for 55 MPH cruising towards Emmett, ID. It was really strange it was like someone lifting and stomping the throttle in a really jerky up down random cycle. Now remember I'm a fly by wire system no vacuum motor cruise. As for error codes there is none I check while driving (Scan Gauge II). As for the APPS sensor it shows 0 while cruise is active there is no signal (Scan Gauge II). I tested my alternator noise once I got to Emmett, ID and it was a normal 0.023 to 0.027 AC volts. After being shut down for the night I've never experienced it again.

I tend to wonder about some part and why they fail. Is the failure from something the owner is doing or not doing? (Not pointing fingers but looking at why's). Like why is it that NAPA sells fuel shut solenoid for these prices but LarryB sells a cheaper one but its a better solenoid? Just because its OEM or higher price doesn't exactly state the quality of the part. Just food for thought...

Typical shop protocol is to order the parts regardless if you need them or not because you can always return them. You can't fix anything if you don't have the parts. I was lucky and only needed screws. But now seeing my contacts it looks like maybe another year and it will be time for another set of LarryB's contact's again too.

Well again I lost my starter fuse at the worst time. Grrr! Ok don't panic we know the drill. I created a temp fuse from a aluminum twist tie. Got it start hitched up the RV and kept it running. On my way home I made a call to Lindy and let him know I'm going to pick up a starter. So on my way into McCall I picked up a starter and a fuse. So I kept it running and towed the RV home and unhitched. Still kept it running then bolted for Lindy's shop. So I grabbed the bay and proceeded to pull it out till I was getting burnt on the last bolt. Time to let it cool off. Long story short I got the starter out and the solenoid cover lost its 3 screw and the plunger was hanging out. So I replaced the 3 screws and reinstalled my starter and saved me the money on the starter wish will now be returned to NAPA.

I've got Red Fir in the middle of my pile this is reserve wood for the just in case. As for going through it doesn't bother me as long as I'm not on the roof stuff a chimney brush in the middle of the winter. Red Fir is a higher BTU wood but way too hot for the hot most of the time. So you end up choking the air down till its smoldering and condensing tar in the chimney. This why a lighter wood is desired for the early fall of the year is lower in BTU's it will tolerate being choked down without taring the stack up. Like a diesel if you chimney is smoking your not burning efficiently need to turn the air up just a bit more till it stops smoking. Now here you are again with high BTU firewood and 80-85*F inside and miserable. This is fine in the middle of winter when the minus numbers come load it up with the high BTU wood (red fir) and turn it up.

Neighbor down the road from me hooked me up with a gent in New Meadows, ID that sells salvaged firewood from logging operations. The load above is all spruce and it sold for $75 a cord and there is roughly 2 cords on the trailer. Nice. I'm planning on doing it again!

Now cover the terminal and light film of engine oil and never worry about cleaning the terminals again. In 12 years of ownership of my truck I've never clean the terminals of the battery cables because they have never corroded. I would still test the AC noise levels to double check to be safe...

I would gladly do the work on the A/C system. But I'm sure your no where near me though... If there is less than 25 PSI lo side the system will not start. Now the lower the lo side pressure the colder it gets so if you jumped the low pressure switch to start it it will most likely freeze up. R134a should be about 35-40 PSI on the lo side and about 225-275 PSI on the hi side. Kind of hard to have a system pumping without pressure on either hi or lo side.

I typically run about 30k miles and change the coolant and not look back.

Hmmm... I'm right on track here for Idaho.

If the spare tire is installed correctly it shouldn't move at all. So how would the cable flex to break? (Food for thought?)

I use none of the above. Just plain ol' engine oil. Never had a bad battery connection and no corrosion issues ever! Ask yourself a question? What is the only matterials that sulphuric acid can be contained in without eating the container? Answer is plastic and glass. Plastic is made from what? Oil... Grease works but if you ever lean over a battery with your arm or your shirt not you covered in grease. That red stuff stains you clothing quick. Most all rig I work on I will just power wash the battery off and the lightly oil the battery terminals. After a day of driving the oil melts away and just a thin residue is left behind. Hold down bolts and battery tray hardware don't rot either. KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid...

It comes just barely under the back of the cab. At least on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 short box. Most airbag system basically are trigger by a gold plated ball bearing stuck to a magnet so if the impact force is strong enough to separate the steel ball from the magnet it deploys the airbags. There is many other systems used out there I've seen but the most common is the gold plated steel ball stuck to a magnet. Now once again depending on the trigger method it might be really easy to trigger and it might be hard.