Dieselfuture

Mine are too, but I was quoting that statement in general. I know you guys put a lot of miles on your parts before you replace them, unlike me I do it for fun

I hope not one else sees this post

So more than likely you have a bad alternator that's producing excessive AC current and that's what is frying your electronics. So when you repair your ECM make sure you have minimun AC current, like 0.03 vac or less. Don't just go and buy a junk reman from parts store and if you do make sure you test it right a way. They don't really test for AC current at part stores, and you'll need a good voltmeter not a cheap one, cheap one will show you 30 vac Also do a ground mod, there is an article here on how to. That will reduce your AC noise also and just help all together with wiring. There is also an ecm rebuilder list somewhere here to. The truck will not start unless that wait to start light lights up first, or if you hotwire vp.

I'm starting to have slight doubts about that place, but hope I'm wrong. Little too early to say that yet, as much as I want to blame someone else for my problems

Who rebuilt your ECM, I had similar experience with https://autocomputerspecialist.com I purchased a used ECM locally and send it to them to program it to my truck so I have a spare, don't ask me why. When I got it back and plugged it in I had a bunch of codes right off the bat. I cleared all the codes and none were present for few days, then out of blue I lost my tachometer, check engine light came on. Drove it home, seem to run fine other than no tach, scan for codes and had 1698. I knew there was nothing wrong with my PCM so I swapped ECM to my original one and all problems went away. That's why I think the problem might be in your ECM. I suppose it could be wiring related and maybe I got lucky by switching ecms out problem when a way, but I really think there is an internal hardware issue with ECM. I called Auto Computer Specialists back and they told me that I need to send ECM back so they can fix it and that programming I had them do and fixing it was two separate issues. I asked them if they need to reprogram it again and they said no just need to fix something internally on ECM board. Which of course I never put that ECM in my truck before I send it out so I don't know if that problem was present before or not. Also I had them enable my high idle/3cyl which they called, cold idle. Be interesting to find out what your problem is.

Where did you send it to originally

I did 180 on big nut and 125 on 4 bolts. I think that right for 2nd gen Did your bearing get lose or somet noise when driving? Can't remember, I think you mentioned something before

Looks like it's been beat on a little but to me still looks good, plenty of material left, unless it comes with a lot more. Is it ceramic, kinda looks like it. All the hot spots are probably from taking off in 2nd and trying to have a smother shifts, I think mine is ceramic too and a pain to slip it it just grabs. I'm sure some day I'll get to know it better lol. The only thing I can say is make sure pilot bearing is good, maybe put a bigger one in HD unless your clutch came with all that. How do you like dd clutch for driving around.

This is from thread posted above https://www.quad4x4.com/Causes of Manual Transmission Failures.htm

I got a good one, buddy of mine had a late 70s Chevy jacked up on 44 in Swampers, he was trying to sell it locally but couldn't get what he wanted for it imagine that. So we took it to a car auction and it started to burn oil on the way up there about 2 hour drive one way. He almost got offered what he wanted for it but for whatever reason turn it down, so on the way home we started to use motor honey, somehow we made it back in town with about 4 quarts of that honey stuff in it. Right before our exit it started to knock and lose power, he got pissed and hammered it to the floor, you can hear when pistons were going out one by one and eventually lost all the power, then we had to pull over. Had some smoke under the hood and luckily he had a fire extinguisher, so I grabbed it jumped out and since his truck was jacked up you could see the oil pan looking through the wheel well, it had bunch of holes in it and there was a fire inside the oil pan. I never did use that fire extinguisher fire went out all by itself. He endded up dropping in a built motor out of some wheeling and dealing he did. Needless to say he should have sold it at the auction. Lesson learned, but we both had fun and I helped him put a different motor in it later.

Yeah I've ran into a few of them with a spun rod bearing that ran for a while before, with little knock lol Yes indeed, use that myself a few times in the past

So a complete rebuild, head and all ?

Now that's some engine that can run with no oil for a while and then keep going when you add some in.

Might have went bad again better check it with good meter, or just unplug it and see if it still does the same thing. Maybe old alternator did some damage to electronics somewhere. I wouldn't think a vacuum pump would cause any issues aside from leaking oil or creating more blow by. Even if your vacuum lines are good and not collapsed it's pulling constant vacuum against dead head if you will. Plus it would have snapped the coupling or something, the engine is way stronger than that vacuum pump.

I put one in my truck when I was chasing some popping sounds in the steering. If helped but didn't cure, after I did over the center justment on gearbox it went away for the most part. Either way my bushing fitted nicely, took a little bit to press it in, but wasn't horrible, I did have my head off at the time doing head gasket when I installed it. I don't have any complaints about the bushing but my preloaded bearing was still in decent shape. Well at least now I don't have to worry about it. BTW I spoke with Ryan at blue top and told them about adjusting gearbox, he sad it's not really a great idea as it's making it feel better but internally it's going to wear out faster, so I made myself feel a little better for now but I am planning on getting a new gear box eventually.

That suks. Definitely something electrical, but what... just need to start eliminating one thing at a time Have you checked your alternator for AC noise yet?

Have you done the rock solid bushing yet. Track bar has a lot to do with it too.

Looks nice but I hate the fact that you have to pound balancing waits on. Wonder if beads would work. I now they work for some and others complain.

I've sent dipstick looks like that before look like a teardrop at the bottom, may be designed that way so it slides down easier

Are you sure it wasn't just windy that day RockAuto has some cheap parts and according to few members here they would not worry about where it was made or buy whom. So if money is tight maybe you could go that route. I'm sure you already read my thread and what I've used.

Who's they, Discount Tire or Hankook

Even if you could I don't think it will be a good horsepower. Be way better with bigger injectors Quadzilla tuner and a good Turbo. Jmo

Forgot to mention, I could have got my tires for about $620 shipped to my door or a store to them, but I ended up getting a warranty for each tire. It sounded like no matter what I did with them they would cover it. Also Discount Tire does patches in tires for free for anyone, you don't even have to buy tires from them. And the guy in the phone told me if I found whatever tire for less money than they do he would price match. All in all I think that's going to be my new place to get tires as long as they don't change anything. Another thing tires are made in Indonesia, not China or Korea. At least this batch. Not sure if it makes much difference. And it does have the snowflake symbol. I'm probably going to put white lettering inside, just kind of used to having black tires.