Dieselfuture

I had these guys built me a turbo. They should have all the parts you need. http://www.northamericanturbo.com/

That is screwed up, I hope my truck is not like that . Or if it is, it be a good one to put on a switch so no one can steal it if you're parking out in middle of nowhere.

It looks like the seal got updated mentioned earlier in this post. If mine decides to leak again I might try it. What's weird is even my old seal when I slide it over the yoke it fits tight, not even sure how it can be leaking. Unless the rubber on it is too stiff and it doesn't give much.

Seen him life a few times amongst others, always a good show.

I'd get a mechanical one if you're getting a new pump, jmo

You might still have warranty on it too, worth checking. If not then they should be able to sell you just the motor.

How many miles have you put on it so far with 15w40, you obviously like it or you wouldn't be doing it. Any particular brand of oil, high on tbn Nevermind on oil brand, it's right there on the 5 gallon pail I'm going to bed now been a long day

I got that cable posi lock on the front I can put tcase in 4x4 and leave the cable out, it should do it I would think. The cad won't be engaged, but front shaft will spin. Thanks for the confidence I figured this whole atf4 is warranty thing, not that it doesn't work, just feel that in something like tcase it should be simple. If I remember right you also use 15w40 in your nv5600?

Want to see what you guys think on this subject. Couple of things, one is why do we need to run atf+4 and not something like even 10-30 motor oil or some similar weight hydraulic fluid. And two I'm in process of messing with my leaky tcase from rear output seal. I changed it for the 3rd time now, but this time I changed tail bushing too, it got deformed up on install at the oil drain grove, at least driveshaft feels tight now. It did have a drip after first trip but now it's seems ok. Some residual fluid from lubing it on install maybe. So I just want to flush tcase for some reason. Question is what do you think would happen if anything if I mix matched different trans fluids for let's say 10miles just to flush it out and go back to atf+4. I'm thinking it should be just fine as tcase is not a transmission and doesn't really need all the additives to run right. Plus I have this fluid on the shelf that I'll never use and figured it would be an honor for it to go out this way. Older models called for atf+3 and dextron3 and I heard of some that tried hydraulic oil before. Sure I can just drain what I have in there and put new stuff in and call it a day or go get some cheap atf+4 and flush with that but what fun would that be. This is what I got sitting around some of it for last 15 years or so. No rush take your time

Have you tried bypassing quad and putting all wires back to factory. if you do that and it works fine then there is an issue with the quad. You could try reflashing v2 software on it if you dear. It's actually not that bad once you figure it out.

That was quick,

I held myself back on that one with all the will power I had

Yhea some days I wish they would have put better synchros in these "bulletproof" nv5600 so I can run gear oil, got plenty of it sitting around, I'm just not that brave to find out what happens if I do

I'm sorry @KATOOM I keep hijacking your thread. Drove the truck some more yesterday and didn't see any drips. Maybe first time I looked was just a residual fluid left from when I installed the drive shaft, I put a bunch on the shaft and the seal. Or maybe it's just empty now, hoping it won't leak for a while. At first I was a bit paranoid about bushing deforming like it did up on install, but the more I think about it, top and bottom were really not a point of contact for the driveshaft, as I could clearly see most of the wear was at 3 o'clock looking from the back of the transfer case. So if the rest of that bushing is still around maybe it will work just fine, I'll make sure to post an update

I'd try local hardware store to find new rubber washer, I got three different o-ring assortment kits and have used round ones were flat ones were needed and it worked.

I'm happy to announce that it's still dripping, going to order another bushing seal and gasket from torque king that @NIsaacs provided ThI'm happy to announce that it's still dripping, going to order another bushing seal and gasket from torque king that @NIsaacs provided Thinking it could be a driveshaft out of balance or yoke is bad, although it looks good.

^^^ that's what I use too

Her is a better picture

It would probably look better under fabric but I didn't want to waste much time on it, that's why I found a brownish color one and used marker on the edges. Was going to make it bigger but my elbow seem to be staying just in that spot, I may redo it later to make it more pretty.

The only place I used silicone on my truck is around aftermarket head light housing to close the gap. If you're going to use something to seal use rtv gasket maker, I like gray or black. I'd like to hear more I'm drawing a blank, what's mls

Guess it depends on how bad you have ocd for the truck That filter trapped 90% or more of brass that otherwise would just keep going through the transmission over and over. Magnets had very little dusting on them. Probably be fine ether way, having a filter or not and just changing fluid every 50k or so. At least I know now that it does help.

When I did mine I shoved all injectors in, then put all shoulder bolts in and torque them to 90, then put hold downs straps in to center injectors, then get cross over tubes in and snug injector lines to the head a little, then I snugged other hold down bolts to about 40, then I snugged cross over tubes some more then I torqued the other hold downs to 90, then loosened few lines to cross overs and primed fuel pump few times, then cranked few times till fuel was coming out of between crossover and lines, then snugged lines down and fired it up. Check for leaks at cross over later, give it some time before you overtightened them because it'll take a bit for for fuel to stop leaking there. A lot of times it's just residual fuel left in the head that gets pushed out with heat. If they leak in few days snag a little more.

Make sure you do shoulder bolt first all by itself then the other with the injector strap. Shoulder bolt needs to be bottomed out.

Not sure what I'm going to do later, my 3rd is weak need to be easy on it, it's been this way since I got the truck. I'll probably rebuild it myself or get a used one then rebuild it idk, maybe get a used g56 all depends on prices and how I'll be feeling that day. Crazy how clean this transmission looks inside and hardly any wear on gears, it's a shame they have weak synchros.