Dieselfuture

Yeah I put a switch for the compressor with @IBMobile help on what wire to cut. I like the idea of being able to use AC on any vent setting when I needed, or like you said shut it off and just use air from outside. I might put another toggle for the blower.

I believe 1200 is safe all day long according to Cummins assuming everything else works as it should, like cooling system etc. Here is my gauges going on mostly level ground, got 20mpg on this trip hand calculated. That's driving in 65 range.

Sounds like a loose connection almost, I'd be checking all your wiring

You can try it, probably will be fine. I was told you can use them without programming to the truck for test purpose, but also heard some just put them on and get away with it. I got a used ECM for my truck also I believe it was two months apart on built date, according to Auto Computer specialists in Florida software was different and had to be flashed to my truck. I had them reflash it everything worked great aside from my tach would quit working after few minutes. They told me it was my PCM needed to be fixed lol, I just put my original ECM in and tach started working again. Wish I would have tried it before I sent it to them to program it to my truck just to see if it still acted the same. Oh well I have a spare ECM that works fine aside from tach.

I seen that too, just when you think at least you can get something like a chunk of metal from china that will be ok, nahhh not even that, sad. If we keep buying junk they will keep selling it. Same goes for everything else.

One suppose it could be ether or

Well it kept me up last night so I got the wheels off and started looking again. Well I must of been in big hurry to use spacers on front, looking at it again all that's in the way is jb weld they use to seal the pipe with beads. So I used a file and knocked some off to make it as flush as I could without going through to bare metal. Now it's pretty much flush with the rim. Not sure how much you can tell from the pictures but it looks and feels good. Going to try it out this way, makes me way happier not using spacers.

Clear as mud just kidding, you just confirmed what I was thinking, thank you. I spoke with centramatic tech, he said as long as I'm grabbing most of the stud threads I'm ok using the spacers and lug nuts should center the wheel. He did mention how lots of people put aftermarket rims that don't even have same hub hole with spacers and get away with it. Not that that's he right thing to do. He also said people complain about balancers not always working on large rims and he can't seem to get the message across that these are designed for a factory set up. I also said that my truck has 3rd Gen breaks and 4th gen wheels, he said that makes sense, because we usually don't have a problem fitting dodge. Guess I'll leave the spacers on for now and see how it goes. With such a small offset I don't think there will be any issues with bearings. And lug nuts do grab all the threads on the stud, right to the very end. I torqued them to 140, that's what I've been doing since I got the truck pretty much. Thanks again @Haggar

Hope they work for you, gotta be better than what you had.

I heard they rust in time, that's why they push glass ones. Any input on rim not being all the way on the hub. I always thought studs is what centers and holds rim straight on our trucks. I know new truck rely on hub to find center and use lug nuts with flat washers not coned like ours. Really I only need an 1/8" to clear the rim, I was thinking just having the rim flex these thin disks to the needed curve without using spacers, just not sure if it'll effect anything. Maybe I'll call them, see what they think.

When I changed my springs to plow package Springs, I used engine hoist and lifted the whole front end up using my custom bumper receiver hitch. The only thing I disconnected was the shocks. Worked on my truck.

Went for a ride yesterday and they definitely helped, but did not completely cure the random shake. I'd say it's 70-80% better now. I'm thinking beads inside tires are fighting the beads in the rings. Maybe I need to pop the bead and vacuume them all out and see what happens, just not feeling like doing that at this time. I'm still concerned about these spacers on the front, even though they are thin and lugnuts are flush with end of threads, the rim is not seated around the hub. Still having hard time believing rim and hub are that tight to have the weight of the truck on the hubs and not lug nuts. Any opinions? Just noticed looking at first picture, it looks like the spacers been on between rim and hub before, I can see scuff ring on them. Wonder if someone returned them at one time.

They must of got tired of people with bad ecm circuits for lift pump. Can't believe it's not creating issues like hard start. Or its just cheaperand easier to go this way

To me it sounds like a hole in your wallet that is making that noise

There is a starwheel on bottom oh housings, designed to be used with phillips screwdriver, usually you can get enough adjustment that way. Unless it was assembled that far off center. I did my own retrofit and must not of trimed off enough from the shrouds, so when trying to adjust the hit the housing and wouldn't move, I used heat on the bottom of husing and got the plastic to where It was pliable, then I could adjust them more. As for the gap between the fender and the housing I used some black silicone that comes in big tubes at hardware store, if you do a good job you can make it look nice.

Can you share what filter you used. Random story here... My step-dad's van 2001 town and country just started leaking coolant on the ground, though it was head gasket or intake gasket, once I got under it i could see it was timing cover gasket where water pump is, between block and cover. No way in hell I'm fixing that on something that is on last leg. It only has 240k on it but everything is falling off now. I put bar's leak tablets in (3) and 20 min of driving no more leak. Stuff really works and not hard to flush out.

I'm reviving this thread as I just got some centramatics. My counteract beads do ok on longer hwy runs but on shorter trips and bumpy roads shake still comes and goes. So I got the 300-318 set from hitchsorce as they were cheapest 180. Came with A and B and I'd say 3/16" spacers. So the flat ones fit best in front but I need to use that spacer to bump the rim out. This brings up some questions, obviously these guys been selling it for a long time and I can't find too much negative feedback on these thin spacer. I do have a concern as my wheel no longer is centered by the hub, now the lug nuts center the wheel. How important is it on our trucks. I'm not sure if rims are that tight to the hub anyway to be riding on it. I would think lug nuts is what keeps things centered. Keep in mind I have 3rd gen breaks and 4th gen rims. May fit just fine on stock 2nd gen.

Good luck with your travels. I also carry a spear serpentine belt without AC option, it's shorter. Just in case AC compressor locks up I can keep going, but then again how many spare things you want to take with you, maybe a fuel filter.

Probably just a dealler thing then new or warranty, guess mine does say remanufactured on top of psg cover. Maybe that's the difference.

I got the cheapest one I could find back in the day, seems to work fine. Do you need it there's a different question, if you're like @Mopar1973Man on pizza cutters then no . I got mine because when I first bought the truck it had a little bit of a loose steering, which was a mixture of things and larger tires than what I run now. Knowing what I know now with tires I'm using I probably don't need it anymore.

Yes, pretty much every start up if it sat longer than few hours would smoke and smell like oil.

Mine had a void sticker and po said dealler changed it under warranty

Make sure your vent is clean, that's how I changed my seals when I got the truck, overlooked something I knew about then. I believe manuals srw have Dana m80 80 pumpkin and 70 hubs. Reason I say this when I did mine and went to the store, the first gave me the full d80 seals which were bigger in diameter that what I had. So I'm guessing hub is a 70, maybe that's why axle tubes taper down