Dieselfuture

I had a 12 valve with nv4500 and 4.10, I ended up putting 35" tires on it just so I could somewhat keep up with traffic on hwy. For what I use the truck, I like the 3.55, in a perfect world I'd take 3.73 with 285/70/17 just looks good and ratio should be where it needs to. On the other note I only averaged 15.5 mpg on the way to work today, little cold out 28 this morning and the way to work is all up Hill about 800 feet from where I live. So hopefully I'll get 20s on the way home to even it out. Yhea it doesn't take much for these trucks mpg to go down.

Right about 1800 in 6th and almost 2500 in 5th

Nice

I'll check tomorrow when I drive it again. I want to say 6th around 1800

Yes, autocorrect at it's best

You need a niddle valve on your fuel guage line that is turned almost off to the point where your guage won't bounce around, or it'll kill it.

Use same tree some clamps that will go on where dent is then some straps and giverrr hell might work. And a new tailgate.

Cool, I painted a few things myself back in the day. I like the painting part just not the prepping.

Back in the day friend of mine jumped a suburban hight enough to bent front tubes right where they go in pumpkin. So yes it can be bent, I seen it. I suppose if it's bad enough, maybe you can use some sort of magnet on the tube equal length, you'll need 4, to extend below the pumpkin, the put a level across. Might be able to see something. Other way, you'll need to complete dissmental the axle and sovereign something through the whole thing, almost same od as id, if it fits all the way through then it's ok, if it binds then you know. Just thinkingout loud.

I was just looking at it from Cummins engineer point of view. Would anyone torque their head bolt/stud to a different spec the the rest? That was my whole point. Don't mean to start a war here

Well, just checked my oil pan bolts and they are all loose, going to re torque them to 18ftlb. No wonder my oil pan is wet, thanks for bringing this up.

Wouldn't that make the gasket weak in that spot, I don't think I'd use that set up just for this reason. Not arguing jmo.

I thought them intake bolts torque was 18ft lb

I don't believe I had any issues with my studs, but they are not arp. How much do arp stick out.

you crack me up JAG1

Probably some ground issue. Check grounds on batterys, there is a terminal in front if driver side battery on fender, then behind driver kick panel by your feet, just pretty much need to make sure all grounds are good

If you don't watch the news you're not informed if you watch the news you're misinformed

What about on a trailer with cutter key, where you can only have it lose or tight. I always got them tight with pair of chanel locks, more like snug and then backed them off to closest key hole.

It spools good, just a bit slower (few hundreed rpms) than stock xh35, I'm guessing has a lot to do with 7x10s and quad tuning. I'm pretty happy with my set up for what I'm doing, some day if I get on better side of my wife I'll get tweens, at this time I just don't need them, sure would be fun though. I'm slowly searching for parts to go for tweens may be few more years idk, I do feel that some day it will happen

Mine has been getting more smokey too, I'm guessing pop is dropping. It really sucks that this stupid pop pressure drops so fast, you'd think there should be companies that can make an injector that last a few hundred thousand miles without problems. My 7x10 popped at 320 ran so smothe and smoke free first year it was amazing. Luckily I have a quad and able to adjust for it. Seriously thinking of getting my own pop tester and a shim kit. I think I'll be money ahead in few years and will be able to see how injectors behave and if one or two pop a lot lower than others, just to kind of keep track.

I think you're pretty much just built similar turbo I got through http://www.northamericanturbo.com How much did you invest in yours. Mine is hx 40 compressor housing machined for a 62 billet extended tip wheel, hx35 machined exhaust housing with some 67 Mack truck turbine or so I'm told. I got $800 in mine to the door without a core. Kept mine original one, figured it's worth a $100 any day. Otherwise it would have been $700

Timbo apps, Ac noise, wt mod, injectors pop pressure, few things I can think of...

That's a good point, I never understood how on some vehicles you need a pre-load. But for whatever reason some older axles required so many foot pounds while rotating the hub.

The future is now, if you are keeping this truck it's time to make it right now and not wait any longer. Not trying to be a but start reading everything you can on this forum about these trucks, there is so much to learn. Get a mechanical pump, like fuelboss or something similar skip the bs. Still need to redo entire fuel system though. Then do WT mod and pcm mod, make sure alternator is good and no access noise. Good luck

It's amazing how many idiots we leave amongst