Dieselfuture

I'd say 7x10 with proper tuning be fine with stock turbo, you'll never have to use wire tap, it'll have plenty on level 3 can buss only. As long as they are popped to 320-325 and I'd go with vcos. I had mine popped at 320 and first year they were awesome no my load sitting still in neutral has dropped to 5-7 from what I remember 10-12 meaning the pop pressure is going down, that's why next time I'm going to set them at 325bar. They still perform good just a little bit more smokey. Your next step will be something like 62/68/12 goes good with 7x10 and quad, compounds be best if you got money.

It's a 5.9, you have somewhat big tires to get good mpg, guessing 3.55 gears. You still should see 16- 18s for mpg. V2 dodge 1998-2002 version 2.7 is what you want. You have a big turbo for 50hp injectors, 150 hp 7x10 vcos set at 320bar would be a good set up for 500hp if you can tune it right. This sounds like old tuning not v2 where you can adjust things yourself. Maybe your problem.

If I had to guess vp timing piston is sticking, usually it throws a code. You can put some 2 cycle oil in fuel and see if it helps. Or use biodiesel it should have plenty of lubrication without 2 cycle. Like other said it could be other issues. Doesn't take much water to make white smoke.

Need more info on the truck

Without the nut outer bearing could of slid out some and that's why it's lose. Or if it's still tight on the pinion and against the race then it could be wore out and took the seal out.

Check for boost leaks first by pressurizing the system through turbo inlet, maybe start with 20 psi use soap water in spray bottle, look for bobbles.

I used bosch rotors and medium duty pads, not ceramic. It's definitely an improvement from original set up.

At idle ecm is in control, if it's not ecm it could be vp or injectors of even a lose wire someplace in harness I suppose. I would think you have a code but if not it could be mechanical, I'm kinda thinking vp hope there are other tests you can do to rule things out. Maybe hot wire vp, exclude ecm from scenario.

Both, I got mine for 240 I believe from a1auto I think, reviews were ok and price too. I belive these https://www.1aauto.com/dodge-ram-1500-2500-3500-driver-and-passenger-side-4-piece-mirror-set/i/1amrp00917?f=575476&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInvrb1ujh6QIVDdbACh1_VgOTEAQYDSABEgLogfD_BwE maybe, they look slightly different on the little mirror part, but pretty much it. Now I'm thinking I should of gotten these https://www.1aauto.com/dodge-ram-1500-2500-3500-driver-and-passenger-side-4-piece-mirror-set/i/trmrp00054?f=1111808&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInvrb1ujh6QIVDdbACh1_VgOTEAQYBSABEgLCLPD_BwE to have a bigger small morrow. I guess to each their own.

Don't sneaze on it

Nice looking shield. I'm happy with mine l, I believe it helps quite a bit.

Exact same thing on my donor ecm, I bet it's in ecm or wiring/pins. Be nice if you had another one to try

That's a whole other can of worms

I can't help unless you go by distance between back of valve cover and cowl. I think if you get that distance correct then engine angle and everything else should be ok. 4 and 1/2" from cover to metal behind rubber weather strip close to 4th valve cover bolt center of valve cover. Put a jack under tranny lift it to that distance, measure what you need for steel mount you're making allowing for some sag of mount.

As far as I'm aware 02 only has cam sensor behind vp in the case. ACS told me my tach didn't work on my donor ecm because pcm was bad, I put my original ECM in and tech started to work again.

You can reprogram both to your vin if that's a concern.

I was scratching my head but like @hdpwipmonkey noticed, yhea it won't run very good with a rag in the intake. Glad you cut it before it went too far.

Depends how you set it up, if you need extra support yhea, if you want a cushy ride now, unless you do more work on suspension. I only put air in them if I get over 3k or something. Factory leafs do fine by them self, I keep minimum air like 4psi or something in bags just to keep them inflated. Never put that much in without using bags, but guessing I'll be flexing overloads and truck would definitely be level if not pointing up a little. That's why I don't want a lift in front. Not only that but geometry of these front ends weren't the greatest to begin with and I don't want to wear things out prematurely as I'm the one always fixing it.

Check the ECM plug to lift pump for voltage, it's somewhere in ecm area. If you're getting nothing then could be a bad circuit in ecm, fried because of wiring issues. WT mod and accessories noise on alternator are first things to do. Then if circuit is bad there are other ways of tapping to things with relays to get it working without spending money of fixing ecm.

Yhea you wouldn't want to snag your antlers and nuts on random sticks in the woods.

I have plow Springs in front for my 200lb bumper. I personally don't care for the lift on this truck as its not a toy. I also like to be able put 5k in the back and still see the road at night. I suppose if you don't haul much 2" up front is OK, or you can add air bags in back to keep it level when loaded. All personal preference. Springs you mention are popular and should work fine, idle do that before a block. no lift here and I do have air bags in back.

I love them Chevys, they don't make them like that anymore. In fact gm sucks anymore. I'd get a tundra before a Chevy these days.

Yes Read this to the end because wire to cut changed. I got this idea from older vehicles like Hondas that have a button. I also like the idea of rec on/off and blower itself

You may have to fine tune it some, I have changed it since, but was a good tune at the time.

I think I know how your truck feels