Dieselfuture

Which lug nuts did you get. I rotated tires the other day and put a bit too much antiseeze on threads, some of it made it to the lugnut cone part where it meets rim face, anyway when torquing them down it felt like they jus kept going. Before I stopped and cleaned the face I managed to strip the treads on one, lucky on the nut and not the stud. I always knew not to lube the face part and after all these years I finally ruined one. I ended up taking all of them off just to be safe and cleaning them. Now just need a lug nut for one, funny the one got stripped was not same shape as others, minor difference but definitely different brand, like someone changed it before.

It's all by design, to get something else through. Time will tell, but the writing on the wall is there.

I honestly don't think it matters left right, all same agenda, get rid of old ways, bring in the new technology driven world where everyone and everything is under full control. That's why it's everywhere not just here or there. Get out of line, can't participate in society etc. It's already reality in China, Canada and Australia following close behind, matter of time before it's here. Unless more see it for what it is, problem is there is way too much information out there put out on purpose to keep everyone guessing while they keep moving forward. "It's a big club and you ain't in it" And the ones think they are in the club selling their souls pushing this garbage are fooled more then anyone else, special place for them down below awaits.

Yeah I just got back from Chicago, talking about people have no respect for others, not all but a good amount, definitely more then I remember. I don't care for big cities, it's a whole different world there, even our town is almost too big for me, so many people drive with little to no respect to others cutting each other off just to get to wherever they are going so they can stare at their phone while they wait for whatever.

I got 2 front Bilstein 4600 for the front to try out from rockauto, my 5100 I took out were still in great shape, not sure how long they been on there 7-8,9 years 50-60k ? They claim that they are the same aside from 4600 is slightly softer, well the rod on 4600 is 11mm and the one on 5100 is almost 14 mm, maybe piston is same but 5100 are definitely beefier. I drove around some today and it seems a bit softer ride, maybe after they break in it'll be noticably softer, we'll see. Here is a picture, I sprayed bedliner paint on them as I don't care for yellow under the truck that's very visible on the front, had the 5100 painted black too. I have a feeling that 4600 won't last as long and I'll be putting these back on. Easy for the most part aside from driver side, where you got crap in the way.

Is this with same turbo and injectors, or what changed.

No snow yet

I still have wastegate it just doesn't get opened by boost pressure, instead drive pressure opens it because the wastegate actuator is only so strong and can't really hold it passed 40 psi which is fine with me. The guy that built my turbo said I shouldn't push it passed 40 anyways. Even if I will put another spring to hold the waste gate shut longer or use a jhook to hold it shut period, it'll be out of it's map and ready to blow. It puts out plenty of power for a little turbo the way it is. So basically you can control boost more than one way, boost elbow, wastegate, tuning. My homemade boost elbow in the picture is not final product, I modified it some. Picture shows how it works. It still needs a tiny hole drilled and spring shortened, you can use another ball bearing on the bolt side so the spring doesn't bind with bolt, etc. Picture is more for an idea. Oh also if anyone wondering why my egts are so low, the isspro gauge to the right of boost gauge is after the turbo, it's about 200 degrees cooler then pre turbo, that spot is where my quad prob is.

I think you're right, my hybrid turbo with hx40 wastegate actuator which may be the same as a 35 opens up around 40 PSI. I tried boost elbow and didn't like it, so I put a plug in the compressor housing where the hose connects. Been this way for years now, between my tuning and the wastegate spring not able to hold past 40 PSI I'm sitting pretty good. Plus I don't want to push this turbo past the limits and blowing it up, has plenty of power the way it is, my next step is probably twins. Top picture is level 3 can bus maxed out, bottom picture highest level 5 in my case, can bus and wiretap maxed out. Basically my boost and drive pressure is 1:1 on current set up, I built my own boost elbow, but I really don't need it the way it's working out.

I looked at mine, it's an oring. Your cap may not be factory. Wonder if you couldn't just use an oring instead of gasket. My oring seals inside the hole in your case it would get sandwiched between cap and top of the cover like gasket. Just don't over tighten it, snug.

Weird, I'd like to see a picture

That's why Ford doesn't make cars anymore, they suck at it for last 2 decades. Mustang is their icon so they kept that. As a matter of fact I think most American cars made in last 20 years are junk gmo. I deleted rest of my comment, it was too long and boring

I'm confused on the gasket part which is nothing new for me, happens quite easily. I thought it's just an oring on the oil cap, did some come with gaskets ?

You got me thinking now if mine chirp on shutdown or startup must be one of those Mandela effects

I've been for a while now. I drilled and tapped another hole in fast cooler in the middle rear so it always in oil and out of the way. Works good.

I'd just take care of little things and keep driving it. All the mods you do to it slowly stay with it, when time comes to rebuild you'll have most of parts bolted to it already so rebuild wouldn't be that bad down the road. If you do it now, where do you draw a line ? If I was doing it I'd probably spent 10k at least by the time I get it where I want it and maybe some. What are your plans with it ? Like said above 400-500hp you can put a million miles on it the way it is more than likely. More power more things to upgrade... all these little things nickel and dime you adds up quick.

This is what I used for tie rods, should be direct fit 01-02, called T stile, you have Y from factory. Your slop is probably from a lose steering box that you can tighten up with over center adjustment I believe it's called. You can do your own alligment it's pretty easy.

Been thinking about this, trying to figure out if that matters or not. Spring is what's going to support the weight, shocks technically stopped the axle from bouncing under the truck I'm also wondering about longevity of lower ball joints in the shock choice. If you got stiff shocks wouldn't that hammer ball joints quicker.

I've had 5100 on there for a while now and I'm ok with them, they handle good and I have no bounce at all. I can stand on the number front/rear and try to bounce it but its not easy to do and the second I stop truck stops, so I know they are working. I'm just hoping by putting in 4600 it'll be a softer ride and according to Bilstein they are made same internally so technically should last same or close. So you saying if you bounce your truck it keeps going after you stop, like if you didn't have shocks at all?

I wonder if there's different locations where they get manufactured or just plain luck. Seems like everything else there's mix reviews about it. I also found where people claim 5100 are softer ride with no evidence to back it up and this link below where they show actual numbers Bilstein 5100 – 986.9/287.7 Bilstein 4600 – 843.0/85.4 higher number = stiffer ride. If you scroll down you'll see the numbers https://toolingfun.com/bilstein-4600-vs-5100-shocks-differences/ There's also a link to KYB vs Bilstein in there. https://toolingfun.com/bilstein-vs-kyb-shocks-different-monomax-5100/ I'm probably just going to get a set of 4600 for the front and try them out, I can always put 5100 back in. I need something to do anyways other than go to work every day.

I never replaced mine yet but I'm only at 180k now. I just replaced a tensioner on my stepdad 2000 town and country it was starting to throw the belt off every so often, he had almost 260k on the original one. Not even sure what brand to recommend, Geno's sells gates with a green heavy duty belt as a package. I've seen a lot of gates stuff say made in China lately.

I might just get fronts 4600 to try and see what happens, rears will be fine with 5100. Just searched them and seems that only front are available anyway.

I got the bilstein 5100 on mine, even though I don't have a lift they fit fine a little too long maybe but never came close to bottoming out, I was always more worried about fronts not stopping front end from dropping too far and loosing a spring but since it stays mostly on road I haven't had a problem. My truck was always a rough riding sob. So I'm not sure if Bilstein is to blame, I believe when I got my truck it still had original shocks on it and it was rough then. My f350 at work is much softer ride I may be trying different shocks too if you find good ones .... Let us know. Through the years here I've seen people mentioning lots of brands that worked for some and not others so I just keep on trucking with what I got. What sold me was a bigger piston, bla, bla, bla and I had a tundra with 4600 I believe that was a nice ride. Maybe 4600 are way better for DD.

You can just plug the hole in the turbo housing where hose comes out to the waste gate actuator to see if it makes a difference. I had plug in mine 1/8npt for years now. With the set up I'm using I haven't had an issue. Just checked my drive pressure against boost and it's 1:1 all the way to 48 psi with wire tap on. I think the waste gate is being pushed open by drive pressure around 45. On level 3 canbus only I can get close to 40 psi.