Dieselfuture

I'm still using 5amp at the time. Used on board air, winch, grid heaters, not at all at the same time though. I probably came close to blowing it few times, just got lucky maybe. I have a 7.5 in the truck in case I need one. Now that you bring this up I'm sure it's a matter of time before it blows

It's starting to get there here too, so far I've seen 3.95 in Illinois 3.50 around Iowa yet, I'm sure our days are numbered.

People are just careless more these days, just driving down the hwy half of traffic doesn't care about others anymore. I still use signals in hopes it'll make others care more.

My studs were nasty looking and smelling when I did hg, I used wire brush and put some anti size one them (not the threads) threads got arp lube. Hoping it'll keep them from corodding. Guessing it's not uncommon.

Let us know the outcome, I'm guessing the exhaust brake is the inline type ?

Sometimes I wish I could forget few things myself, much easier and happier life when you don't know too much

To solve a problem you first need to understand the question.

35 would fit with some rubbing on control arms going to full lock, not sure on 37 never ran them. I know 35 were pretty close on my 96 I had

Sounds like you're figuring it out

I modified my original bar, welded some stuff to it years ago and it's doing just fine. I basically cut out 4-5" an welded a fine thread bolt in between for adjustment then welded a round bushing stock where bill joint was then made a bracket for the frame, guess it's not for everyone as it will take time and thinking cap. Best is to get an adjustable one if you can't make one yourself.

C2500 with a 4.3 thought all 3/4 tons had V8 Have you looked at rockauto for line kits or new modules, should come with everything you need. Help section at part stores carry fittings that snap on modules then you can use rubber lines.

On the 01 vacuum does HVAC, cad, exhaust break if you have one that uses vacuum. Breaks are hydraulic, cruise control is electric. If you're pump is not leaking oil between where power steering connects then it's probably fine. Your front may not be engaging because the diaphragm on the cad is bad and you could be loosing vacuum there too. How's blow-by, when you have a vacuum leak blow-by increases. Maybe plug the line going to cad see if things change. Also you can suck on cad actuator on each end where line is attached and see if diaphragm is bad. This is where I got my rebuild kit, like others mentioned Cummins or here on the site is a good place also. Not sure if this guy still sells kits I haven't looked in a while.

Quad is a great investment for a vp44 motor, can't really go wrong on that decision. If you get quad and 62/68/12 or similar get 150 hp vco poped at 320 bar, DAP does a good job at that, that's where I got most of my stuff. Be specific if you do, not everyone wants higher pop pressure. Anything less then 7x10 (150hp) injectors with 62/68/12 is a waste and you'll be going to them later. As for getting bigger turbo you can still use it with compounds (twins) or you can go straight to compounds now and use original hx35 as primary and a bigger one for secondary will save some money on not buying 2 turbos. Lots of options that's why I said depending on what you want and how much you want to spend. Quad will be your best friend tuning things in with either set up after you'll figure out how to use it which is a topic on itself.

Yeah I see your point, I'm sure dap can do the same for RVs if you asked them. I suppose it may cost extra then just getting the 50hp right of way. I honestly haven't looked at prices lately

I would not run anything bigger then rv275 injectors without additional mods. At minimum you'll want a boost fooler. Best thing would be quadzilla and possibly 7x10 (150hp) you can do it but I would say get 62/68/12 to go with that, then you'll be set. Problem is where do you stop? ... Heads studs, building up tranny, etc. If you're just using it as dd and don't want to spend a fortune I'd just go with RVs and boost fooler, if you want to spend money leave xh35 alone and go tweens, be a nice towing set up with solid 500hp or so. Ether way I would not get used injectors with unknown condition pop pressure for 500, 200 maybe and still a lot of work just to try and find out it runs hot and smokey now.

He built a lot of things @Me78569

I've heard good things about moshimoto and if when I need one that's what I'll be getting. I don't mind spending more for something that will last for ever and I have no plans on selling my pile of rust.

Boost fooler may be not functioning or map sensor going waky

Go through settings in quad, make sure defuel is where it needs to be. I have mine set at 45 boost and 1400 egt as quad likes to start defiling sooner. But with my tune I usually max out my canbus at 35ish. Just installed drive pressure gauge to see where I'm at and at 40 boost my back pressure is at 42-45. I'm leaving it it alone for now, looking for used parts to go teens next. Tweens

I love reading W-T posts always something to learn, but I was under assumption that the fuse is there just in case alternator shorts to ground internally somehow and blows the 140 amp fuse instead of all other fuses and whatever else. or maybe that's the pcm mod I can't remember I did both just in case.

I think he is getting that mpg, but he has his own driving style and set up that makes it possible. For me I just simply don't want any smaller tires then I got and I don't have patience driving at 60 mph. Beginning of this summer I wanted to see what I can get for mpg if I was trying, well I got close to 25 I think, can't remember exactly but I was excited, so it is possible but I don't have time or patience for it most of the time. I think @JAG1 can beat Mike's record the way he drives

I want to say so much but I'll stay right here And I'll keep my 2nd gen for now too...

Maybe wastegate is sticking open

Did you check for boost leaks

I hope you're talking about going four wheeling and not sewer pipes