Dieselfuture

Hey now personally I wouldn't be running 150s without the 62/67/12 that I got, or something similar, I love it, spools quick and plenty of power for what I'm doing without getting hot out of control. Quad really helps to fine-tune things, like take away some fuel on bottom end before turbo is spoiling and timing adjustment for different size/pop of the injectors. But of course if you don't know how to tune you can make it worse not better. If you just took big injectors and shove them in, it'll be a hot mess. Need air to compensate for extra fuel not arguing there. All we were saying is you can get away with 150s and stock turbo with some tuning from the quad, obviously not an ideal setup. At least that's what's in my mind there's a lot of tunnels and hiding places in there

Quad will definitely give you way more control of things. I honestly don't see how we did it for so long without v2 tuning on these vp44 trucks. I suppose if you had a perfect turbo/injectors combo it would be ok, but then you're still stuck with timing tables built for stock injectors if you don't have a tuner if you have any other tuner but quad most of them try to max out fuel and timing before you get to 50% throttle something like that. With quad you tell it what you want and when.

Last winter we had a good snow storm, I was driving to work and ran into a bunch of cars driving 30 in 55 as usual I waited for a safe spot to pass and went for it, first car was a state trooper I kept on going and he never did anything, my luck I guess...

Dirty air filter Seems you should get 18s or better. Something isn't right, wore out injectors?

Maybe some drag bigger tires, brakes sticking

And pizza cutters

Yes. Just put in studs for now and deal with the hg and the head later, because it all adds up depending on how much work your head needs. Maybe spend some money on springs and push rods for now. At some point in future you won't have to buy all these parts and can spend money on the head and whatever else. Like stainless diesel exhaust manifold already has holes for egt and drive pressure and they claim you can gain up to 20hp and turbo responds better, plus it'll last forever. I've been looking for a used one for a while now, may have to just buy it one of these days. That's the great thing about not having payments like rest of the people I know, they make fun of me because I'm always spending little bit here and there but overall they don't seem to see the big picture on how they spend 500-800 a month and I might spend 1000 a year and most of the time it's for something I want not need, like new dash or air bag controls, stupid stuff that I can get by without. Just figured if I spend a little at a time it'll still be worth keeping and be somewhat reliable, which I can't say for many newer vehicles.

It's too bad this place closed down or at least it says that on line https://www.google.com/search?q=North+American+turbo&oq=North+American+turbo&aqs=chrome..69i57j46i175i199i512j0i512j0i22i30l2.1528j0j7&client=ms-android-google&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8 I'm happy with the turbo I got from them for $800 62/67/12 still able to use exhaust break with 5 bolt flange. I'm keeping it at low 40 psi on max setting to stay safe, and most of the time I don't really get over 30. Maybe someone else can build something similar for you, unless you going to put in a bigger turbo and then get an in line EB which would probably cost more then just building a turbo for 800 and using what you already have.

I just got this one has mesh inside too just in case. https://www.amazon.com/Baldwin-PA2820-Air-Element/dp/B001JQTI2K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Baldwin+PA2820&qid=1632406475&sr=8-3 For next time I change a filter which may be few years down the road, but as things are starting to get a bit hard to come by I figured it can sit on the shelf for a while.

Which ones would you get if you had to, I looked at rockauto they have 3 choices, seems skp do 3° maybe there's better brand out there I need to do mine at some point. Highly doubtful I'll get my factory ones freed up.

If you're keeping your truck for a long time then get https://retroshop.us/products/2g-ram-hid-projector-retrofitted-headlights retrofits and don't think. Otherwise have fun trying things out. You can retrofit yourself if you got time to save few bucks. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkbuKBhDRARIsAALysV7wHF4bqvFCVNuSohpKEOd7aTcOdfqVP7himtVD-i6xsYepsHZPjxYaAlvMEALw_wcB D2S is what I'd go with

Need a hole in exhaust manifold next to the egt probe if you have one, before the turbo. Some go 1/8 some go 1/4 supposedly 1/4 doesn't plug as fast, some put filters in too. Then pick copper, ss, break line etc for tubing to cool the line before you connect to plastic that goes in the cab. May need something to dampen exhaust pulses, like snubber or needle valve. Look at Manton pushrods site for valve train stuff.

@Concreter you may have a wrong seal. My truck takes this one https://www.danaaftermarket.com/spicer-automotive/automotive-axle/seals/part/differential-pinion-seal/50563?cat1=312&cat2=386&cp=0&catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART Spicer 50563

Can you elaborate on the kiss thing, you mentioned it few times now and it's starting to bug me

I've always used air gun if need more torque then I use 3/4 one, with crush sleeves and without like Dana 80, never had an issue as long as you're paying attention and kinda know what you doing.

I was just going to suggest Stanadyne, as they make injection pumps I would think they know what they are doing. Once in a while I use cen-pe-co antigel, I also use their motor oil for last 4-5 years. They only 40 minutes from me and on the way to work kinda. Did some oil sampling through cat dealer and results were as good as amsoil I ran before if not better.

Try turning the key on first then hit the app icon. Sometimes if you do it the other way it won't load. Also having airplane mode on and having a dedicated device just for the quad helps in some cases.

I had a 1998 half ton gasser with v6 and it avaraged around 18, I also had a tundra in that year range with a V8 that averaged 18 with way more power, hand calculated. Forgot to say 1998 was a Dodge ram 1500

You're grids were cycling, you need to have it up to temp shut everything off drive around a block faster than 20 mph then come back and without shutting off the truck check ac at alternator only.

Yeah you never know these days

Probably local hardware store has some plastic washers, they have new gaskets/seals online I've seen before come as a kit with washers. I need some too.

You can bypass the ECM for lift pump if it's the only issue you have with it, with some relays.

I do some random markings on engine parts if I have them machined, especially on some older stuff that people want. I did it on my head too when doing hg, valve guides, just to be sure they don't say oh it's junk and cracked. I trust my shop for the most part but you just never know. Seen people get screwed this way before.