Dieselfuture

Crazy how easy all that folds in, need to make a brush guard

Yes, I used North American turbo but seems like they are out of business now Maybe someone else can machine a housing for you.

I can't believe they recommended a 9cm housing, sounds like they don't know what they're doing or didn't quite understand what you were trying to achieve. I had my turbo built by a North American turbo, which looks like the business is closed now for whatever reason. 62/67/12 hx35/40 platform. It was a good improvement from the hx35. My next setup maybe twins

Could be a faulty fuse just change it and see if it helps.

I remember not long ago I was saying diesel day's are numbered, and had a few that were so sure it won't be in their life time. Well I've seen the writing on the wall a while ago and believe these bastards are moving forward at exponential rate to push their bs on us. Time will tell but I'm afraid it's running short.

I know I had to skip few sapporo's because of WT

I changed few tcase seals and always leaked, finally I changed the tail bushing and it's been great now. As for pinion seal I used 3/4 impact that took the nut off, I marked it and put it back just pass the mark almost 8 or so years ago still good. The seal was fine it rusted through the metal because it's double wall and traps junk in there. There is no crush sleeve there so just put it back with impact you'll be fine, like I said I held the trigger too long and it's passed my mark just a bit. U-joints you need to be thoughtful when changing, easy to screw up if not done right.

Personally I would not touch a 1500 ram with a 100 foot pole, just my experience.

Can you link it, there are few different ones

Could be untistall feature is disabled in ecm ?

Thanks, yeah there are few other issues in the way too but I'm pushing forward for now.

Where I live everyone has newer cars and they all flor it from the stop, countless times I've almost been rear ended. Been thinking about putting a sticker on the back that says something like "slow shifting" people just can't get there fast enough to then stand around staring at their phones. What a wild world we live in.

This is not an easy decision by any means. I've been at same job for almost 13 years now and slowly climbed the ladder to where I'm in charge now of a small town water and wastewater plants among other things, like maintenance of stand by generators, lots of work in the field fixing random stuff. I like my job to the point where even after we moved to a different city because of wife's job 70 miles away and now she lost that job due to her department being subbed out to India But having kids and bills I keep on driving as the benefits and retirement makes up for it, if I live long enough to see it . The waste of time driving is the worst part of my job well and some politics that go with it, that you'll have anywhere for the most part. I've been looking for a job closer but can't find anything with same package, hoping some day I will. I've worked for some shops in the passed fixing cars/trucks going to actions buying selling, it was fun for a while. Would be great if you can do that for yourself, but then again you'll be a working fool until you figure it out. I'd say if you hate the job move on and don't look back, keep at it, with good work ethic you'll be fine, as long as this world doesn't go completely bananas which at this point hard to tell. It seems that most of the money will be in tech department, software etc. All new cars rely on it heavily and old technology will fade out with time. Diesel may be faded out at some point too but it may be a good start to learn on at the shop you're talking about, it won't go away at once and certain things will still be diesel for a while, just not for general use I don't think. So yeah like others said you won't know until you try. Good luck.

Make sure you don't have vacuum leaks first

Why not just spray some type of badliner on bottom of the truck, I ended up doing that after changing cab corners and some rockers. Just used cheaper stuff in a can easy to touch up when need to. I really don't care about shine and appearance anymore, I go fo longevity these days.

I believe it's all by design...

Xline seems to be holding up really good on my work truck for last 10 years. Just remember it rusts inside out, spray some rust protection on the inside too, fluid film or something like that.

I really miss doing that myself

I soldered mine like 10 years ago, still fine now, just don't use acidcore it'll eat the wires with time.

Looks promising, no more rubber balls to wear out. Last ball I got from them was plastic.

Glad you got it fixed, can't imagine owning one of those trucks overseas, especially now with all the BS in the world.

Check the solder on solenoid, I've seen it come loose from contact itself inside, can't see it unless you take it apart. These starters should go through few sets of contacts before any other work needs on them. I spoke with a local rebuilder a while back and he fixed a lot of starters for ups diesel trucks, he told me they would put 3-4 sets of contacts before it needed complete rebuild.

Contacts look good, mine were gone completely when it quit starting. I'm glad to see Larry's contacts still looking good after 8 years, (miles?) I got his kit with a new plunger and spring is believe, make sure it's all clean and moves freely. I think ibmobil is right sounds like connection issues.

All of my fuel gets returned to the basket too, fuel gets pretty warm in summer when tank gets to last 5-10 gallons around 160f when I fill the tank up it'll drop to 110 or so. I'll try to reroute lift pump return to filler neck I still have the T installed there with a cap on. If the hose is long enough if not I'm not too worried about it as it's been this way for about 10 years. Like been mentioned before fuel has got to get to at least 160 that runs through the head and gets returned to the basket. But we're debating several things here, cooling of vp and asphaltines. I'm not worrying about asphaltines as I never had an issue with it running my temperatures and really I'm not too worried about vp cooling as I believe revised pumps don't have hardly any issues with solder as old ones did. Lubrication is probably more important then the other two issues for longevity, just my

I'm happy with 320 that now I bet is around 300ish, things wear in and settle down. Stock pop is good which is like 310 or whatever but if it can stay there after few thousand miles then 300-310 is good just from seeing some members here pulling their injectors out after short period of time and finding pop at 280-290, I'll stick with 320 to start with. I made a pop tester and tested some injectors I ran before and they are around 280 now, they may have 20k on them, not sure where they were set when I got them from dap, back then I didn't specify what I wanted them set at, guessing the were set to around 300