Dieselfuture

Drb3 is my best guess, I'm sure there's other ways too.

It has fuel/timing maps controls idle speed etc, truck won't run without it. I guess it can if you hotwire VP, but then you're only stuck with idle speed.

That may be a vent

Volts ac, my meter auto adjusts the scale to volts or I can chose it myself. On your cat one try acv 2 that should set the max at 2 volts ac so if your alternator let's say putting out 0.05 it should display that. If you set it at 20 then it may look like 0.50 I'm not an electric guru just know what to look for. You don't need to disconnect anything when testing just make sure you're testing at alternator not at battery and turn everything off also disconnect your positive cables to grid heaters or drive the truck so grids quit cycling, I believe you need to go faster than 15 mph. Then make sure you leave the truck running before you test, if you shut it off and start it again grids will be going on off. That's why I say disconnect them. If you put them on a switch, just use any push button switch like a start button, so when you let go it shuts off the grids. The grid silinoids are at the bottom of driver side battery, 2 of them. Large wires are power from battery that go through grid silinoids to grids on intake, smaller wires that push on are what energizes them, one wire is positive and the other is what comes from ecm, gives it ground, that's the wires I ran inside the cab through a switch and to ground on the dash frame. So when you push button you give ground to the silinoids just like ecm would only now you're in control. I kinda suck at explaining this. But I love it now that I only use the grids when I need to and not every time I start the truck. Saves all kinds of wear and tear.

What he said ^^^ also what level are you driving on? Your wire tap is set to come on too soon and you never see your cruise timing at 35 timing limit unless you have that much load driving on hwy, I'm around 18-20 at 70ish mph. Boost scale 30 set to 40 light timing advance try 2. Your tune is all screwed up imo but I have no idea on what your truck is like. You do have small tires so you should be good there.

Set it to vac, it needs to be 0.03 or less 0.05 is on the edge. Test it on the alternator stud red lead and body of alternator black lead. Pcm control alternator not ecm, sounds like you may have did some damage to ecm because of high ac voltage coming from alternator. Ac volts should be minimal, diodes make ac go to dc, cuts the wave in half basically. Not sure if your meter can do this. Yes you can put grids on a switch, both of them have a coil, 2 little wires is what powers ( energizes) the coils signal comes from ecm, one is ground one is on the battery, you can tie two of the ground ones together and run it through a switch to ground. I'm using a push button one so I don't forget the switch in the on position. One of the best mods I did. It will set a code but will not show anything on the dash. Your grids coils could be failing and sticking on causing alternator to work overtime.

Makes one wonder what is really going on

I believe most clutches that come with flywheel use a larger sealed pilot ball bearing

I put dot4 synthetic valvoline in mine when I replaced my hydraulics, walmart had some back then, haven't seen it lately, they have super tech and preston I believe now

I just ordered some 75-90 for the front and 75-110 for the rear from amsoil. $20 for preferred customer gets you a good discount and order over $100 is free shipping. I also put on a magtech cover in the rear that holds like 8qts. I probably have 50 or so thousand miles on it (make it like 80 ) , not sure how many years but I know it's over 6 and it still looks new. ((( I just went out and looked when I got the mag cover.... It was in 2010 man time flies, this means I had it on for like 10 years with same oil ))) I've checked the temps with rf gun before and after I put mag cover on and I clearly remember improvement just don't remember actual temperatures. Last few years I haven't really towed anything but my boat. I debated on putting stock cover on to save on fluid but $60 whatever bucks every 6 years (10 lol) is not a huge deal considering oil now still looks good. I check the dipstick once a year and never had more then a dusting on it. Used amsoil in the engine too for few years but then switched to cen-pe-co that's made few hours from me and most Farmers use it in their equipment and sled pulling with good results, it's a parafine based and supposed to be great at high loads. Did few oil analysis and it's as good as amsoil. Where does time go? these gremlins I tell you... ()= Inserted after I realized how long it's been.

WT came out of nowhere and vanished just the same after sharing with us his electrical knowledge. Hope he's doing good, I know he went through a lot after the fires @JAG1 drinks beer with him every night and keeps an eye on him, he also likes to drop bolts and nuts in random places

That's what I used too, some jbweld for plastic and then I cut few pieces of fiberglass mash and worked it in. Hopefully I'll last for a while, if I come across a good core I may just get it. Wonder if they make new ones like the dash. I'd rather spend few more bucks and get new maybe made from different materials.

You need a scan tool that can reed life data to see engine load. It should be around 6-10 could be lower or higher but in that range you're ok. To me it sounds like your problem is in injectors, but we need more data to troubleshoot. Idle should be around 800 if yours is at 850 then you're injectors have low pop pressure and ecm can't adjust fuel to run right.

It rained all day I was out in the garage looking for a stupid key fob box with a button, that I never found, after taking few pieces off the dash while looking I decided to swap out the dash. Took my time had a beer or two, everything went together pretty well for the most part, I left few screws out because they didn't line up with new dash. 4 metal brackets that lean against firewall I could only get two middle ones lined up for screws in the back to the dash. The long screws that hold the dash to the firewall all fit just fine and all in all everything looks good. Color is slightly lighter then my old one, but close enough and it's not all cracked. Can't believe all that fiberglass held it together this long, it didn't even fell apart when taking it out. I had my kid jump on it once and pieces went all over the garage, it went out with a bang Another thing I want to say, bezel that I got is not a complete one, it's just a skin that you glue over top your old one, that's why it was only 70 bucks, eBay has some for 50 I believe. If I would have paid more attention I probably would not get it. I'd wait till I felt like spending more money on a complete bezel later. @dripley guess that's why you paid more and yours came with vents. One more thing I noticed is that my dashcore is starting to crack in few places wasn't like that last time I had her apart. Never ending gremlins....

They must have jacked up the price or I got lucky There was also a core charge when you bring old batteries back you get some money back

I got Walmart batteries not long ago and they were around 80 bucks a piece, you sure you're looking at the right group 27 is what I believe I got. Unless they went up in price recently like everything else.

He sent the image through eBay messages there is no option to download it. He sounds pretty confident that there is a box with a button, I'll look for it some more this weekend. If I can figure it out I'll just wait until someday I may go to the dealer to do a few other things, unless I find that cheap drb3

I've had 75-110 amsoil in rear for 8 years now and 75-90 in front, probably need to change it soon, it has about 60k on it now and last time I checked it it looks exactly same and no metal on the magnet.

All I can find is discontinued, one site shows a picture of what looks like a relay or something. I see no buttons, but description does say a bypass switch. I guess I'll look for it some more tonight. Part #4886258AA https://www.jeeppartsoverstock.com/p/Jeep_2004_Liberty/SWITCH-Programing-Bypass-Alarm--Keyless-Alarm/42209806/04886258AA.html

Who's TJ and why is he tunning your truck when you can do it yourself it sounds like you have quad with v2 I would still check for bost leaks with a spray bottle water soap mix, all the boots connections intake turbo itself. You'll need to make a little adapter which is easy to do bolt it on turbo inlet, pressurize it to like 20 psi and start looking for leaks. You could have a bad intercooler too. How are you seeing boost with quad or mechanical gauge.

Yes that was his reply, he sent me another crappy picture of what I'm looking for and then I follow wires from there and find a button. I'm starting to feel like a leprechaun looking for pot of gold at the end of the rainbow "There will be a black box like this. Then if you trace the wires , at the end of one of them will be a push button. Thanks."

Welcome, All of us still have the ecm on the block, the fact that you dump water on it and it starts to work tells me there's a solder issue. From what we know earlier ecms weren't as strong built as later ones like 01,02 you could try sending yours in to have it repaired or try to find a used one and reprogram it to your trucks vin. I have to say usually it's the vp board that people dump water on to get started, not sure I've heard of ecm doing that, but what I've said is my guess. Someone will correct me, that's what we do best here is trying to get the best answers to the problem. It would be a very good idea to do the WT mod and check your alternator for AC noise, that is 2 biggest electrical causing problems with these trucks and also rest of grounds and good batteries. After all these years we're still finding something to mod and improve, that's of course if you like to tinker with stuff.

Apparently there is another box somewhere with a button to push. Ok that picture you sent is for the factory alarm system. There will be another box under there with a button on it. Thanks.

I'm waiting on him to reply

I left him a feedback saying it's a nice remote but because it's only a two button without a panic you may have to take it to the dealer to be programmed, and this was his response. I saw your feedback and I am not sure what you are referring to a panic button for. You can easily program this yourself. Did you try? Are you referring to the valet button? Did you find the valet button on the alarm brain box under the steering column by the pedals?