Dieselfuture

Could be it got overloaded and eye hole got bigger. On my mud truck bushings were gone so I just had a shop mill a DOM tube to fit tight inside the eye and had a hole for a 5/8 bolt. Then I drilled through the leaf and dom with 1/8 drill bit to get to the bolt and put a grease zerk in, obviously hole for grease zerk was slightly bigger, just no reason to drill all the way through with a bigger bit. Then you can also use a grinder and put a grove in the bolt long way for grease to spread out. Worked for me for many years.

That's how I did it, first I adjusted the drag on shoes, then I attached the cables and adjusted the slack on that.

Exactly what was wrong is the cable going to passenger side wheel was rusty and sticking. So when I set the parking brake driver's side was on fully and passenger side was only halfway on, when I started to rock the boat off the trailer to get it the in the water, passenger side cable tighten up more because there was tension on it but that also made the driver side looser. So basically the force from the main cable split the difference between the two and truck started rolling in to the lake not fast luckily but fast enough you didn't really have much time to think about what to do. I put all new cables on except driver side rear it was still in real good shape and I've changed it some years back. Got the cables from RockAuto I went with rybestos made in China quality seems ok. Then what I did is put one end of a cable in the vacuum and also put a rag so vacuum creates more suction, then I kept putting oil on the other end and moving the cable back and forth until I got oil coming out of the other end that went into the vacuum. Maybe it'll make them last longer, maybe not but I tried. Got everything adjusted works perfect now.

I just changed a distributor on a 96 suburban 454 original wore out it was plastic too, put an aluminum one on from rock auto. Whoever changed intake gaskets before dropped the distributor in 2 teeth off, can't believe it still ran ok. Always had a code for random misfire, I thought the timing chain was stretched out. Got new one in the right way after doing lower intake gaskets again and it runs perfect now no check engine light anymore.

I believe it's all in the distributor, just need 12v to it.

That's crazy, might as well get the actual dash and not just the cover. But then it'll probably double the cost again

Usually they are press in fit, I've done a few and they all required a press in, not sure on yours, could be wrong part?

I prolonged my dash by about 7 years with epoxy and fiberglass but when I finally did change it this year the old one was so brittle that I think even if you spend time with staples it would just keep braking else where. Putting in a new dash was the next best thing for me. I know for you it may be much tougher to get one.

This is what I'm talking, I never used any other stuff. abouthttps://www.google.com/search?q=bars+leaks+tablets&oq=bars+leaks+tabl&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0j0i22i30l3.7271j0j7&client=ms-android-google&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8 Well that didn't turn into a link, here is another https://barsleaks.com/product/radiator-stop-leak-tablets-hdc/

I believe quad is the best for vp not for common rail, smarty should be good for that.

I used it on quite a few vehicles with no I'll effects, just don't over do it. Flush it out whey you fix the problem.

If it's a small leak that is only from low pressure 15-16psi and not from cylinder pressure, I've had good luck with using bars leak tablets. Put 3 in and see what happens, comes in the package of 6. I've driven some vehicles for 5-6 years like that and then sold them never had a problem.

I think @dripley is mistaken your thread for @Blueox01 one similar situations, he may need some of that blinker fluid too I should add blueox01 video is posted in my thread "my truck almost killed me" but I know he posted it before too.

I just know if undercoating is done wrong it creates more problems then not having anything done.

I'd say it's pretty good deal, not sure about undercoating and how long or well it would last. If done professionally sandblasted prepped two parts spray maybe a good idea, but the cheaper stuff in a can doesn't seem to last that long. Maybe just clean it up and paint it then put some fluid film on it.

You may want to use some of that blinker fluid in your eyes now

Great to see you hanging around here once in awhile, hope things are going good for you. Thanks for your knowledge and contribution to keep our gremlins under control.

Could it be map sensor telling ecm something goofy, can you see life data.

I believe 01,02 is a direct fit, not sure on 00

I don't think it's your turbo at all, you can always check for both clicks to be sure but you really don't need boost backing up a trailer. Sounds like there may be an issue with your transmission.

Good thing you were in a truck and not a smart car. Your project is looking good, can't wait to see the end result.

@Blueox01 that does not look fun, I believe I've seen that video before you may have previously posted it. Definitely not something anyone wants to go through, glad you're ok.

Just put smaller tires on, you can get a used set of rims and tires just to see what happens that's what I did to determine I liked smaller tires for all around. Then I sold them for same price and got the tires I got now, sold the bigger tires I had ho almost half of what I paid 5 years before, win win for me. I hardly ever go in deep anything so 265 are perfect for what I'm doing, mostly steer use.

Ohhh it's tender this morning, having beer last evening helped a lot. A bit challenging to get around now, fells like it got ran over by a dump truck, it'll be a fun week at work I'm sure, considering both of my vehicles are manual it'll get plenty exercise to heal up